A long time ago I was helping a car friend with a similar problem.
We took 2 or 3 long zip ties and tied the fan on the clutch so it would move as a unit no matter the speed. Then let it idle and then drove it easy on some slow streets. It did not overheat. Then we cut the ties off and drove it again and it started to overheat.
Conclusion: Fan Clutch.
I would not go roaring around for any length of time like that, but not a bad idea to carry some extra-long zip ties in the trunk for an emergency fix on the road or to test it.
James
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2024 08:17
To: dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 F Engine overheating
Yes, that is right, but it can be gradual and erratic. And there are two kinds --one with engagement when temp goes up ,one with fluid that changes viscosity with temp gradually comes in as temp rises.
Overheat at idle is one sure thing or totally free spin free feel on a fluid one. I think fluid must leak out. seal? Maybe someone else knows more, but it is not easy to tell if working right as it can be half working. Overheating in traffic slow speed is a good indicator and this is easy compared with pumps,radiator , clean block etc. etc
. Someone posted "over advance" causes heating,actually it is otherway--- retarded causes heating at idle.
J
On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 10:55 AM dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
One clue for Steve on fan clutch would be that the overheating is happening at idle but not while driving around say over 35mph right?
In other words if you go for a back road drive and there are no stop lights, would you still have a problem if fan not spinning?
Sent from my iPhone
On May 6, 2024, at 06:38, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
probably fan clutch , they go … hard to tell decisively too
have to watch “ new water pump “ as they sell you a 440 pump now. There are variations in 413 pumps i never got to the bottom of myself . But got bit once . Some early block front covers had metal flow directors inside behind pump others did not , add in AC or not , and i believe due to this plate the pumps changed in how far they reach into cavity . . if you put a 440 pump in you can end up with a space behind impeller and it pumps very poorly . I did not measure any of this at the time but someone may know . Confusing and erroneous data out there on this .
discussions with parts guys can get heated all they know is numbers , it is a 440 pump you get unless a part lookup from 1960 but even that crosses in computer to440 pump . Which might work depending on details of front cover cavity
There are articles about adapting i think it was JAG fan clutch too . , as the clutches vary in thickness . tech site has info on that .
Sometimes parts get mixed over 60 years wrong blades etc etc
personally if building new i’d look at modern aluminum 440 covers and pump , at least you kniw they go together , and pump fully evolved
but my bet is fan clutch
john
Sent from my iPhone
On May 5, 2024, at 3:37 PM, Steve <sbeard2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hello again from Delaware,Ohio.
Got a overheating issue.
2 weeks ago drove it 50 miles. Brought it in and it was super hot. Put a new thermostat in and temp guage was in the middle. Flushed engine today 3 times and new antifreeze.
Drove it 50 miles, temp outside 70.
Brought it in and radiator was gurgling and super hot and upper radiator hose was not the usual stuff hose.
Was steaming a little. Had radiator done within 5 years and new water pump also
Infrared temp at radiator cap 200, and engine 240.
Got a week to figure it out or a big no on driving to kokomo.
Thanks in advance.
Ps
Got a new water pump ready to go?
Thanks
Steve Beard
300 F
Delaware,Ohio
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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