Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 F Engine overheating

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yes, that is right, but it can be gradual and erratic. And there are two kinds --one with engagement when temp goes up ,one with fluid that changes viscosity with temp gradually comes in as temp rises.

Overheat at idle is one sure thing or totally free spin free feel  on a fluid one. I think fluid must leak out. seal? Maybe someone else knows more, but it is not easy to tell if working right as it can be half working. Overheating in traffic slow speed is a good indicator and this is easy  compared with pumps,radiator , clean block etc. etc 

. Someone posted "over advance" causes heating,actually it is otherway--- retarded causes heating at idle.

J

On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 10:55 AM dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

One clue for Steve on fan clutch would be that the overheating is happening at idle but not while driving around say over 35mph right?

In other words if you go for a back road drive and there are no stop lights, would you still have a problem if fan not spinning?  

Sent from my iPhone

On May 6, 2024, at 06:38, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:



probably fan clutch , they go … hard to tell decisively too 

have to watch “ new water pump “ as they sell you a 440 pump now. There are variations in 413 pumps i never  got to the  bottom of myself . But got bit once . Some early block front covers had metal flow directors inside behind pump others did not , add in AC or not , and i believe  due to this plate the pumps changed  in how far they reach into cavity . . if you put a 440 pump in you can end up with a space behind impeller and it pumps very poorly . I did not measure any of this at the time but someone may know . Confusing and erroneous data out there on this . 

discussions with parts guys can get heated all they know is numbers , it is a 440 pump you get unless a part lookup  from 1960 but even that crosses in computer to440 pump . Which might work depending on details of front cover cavity 

There are articles about adapting i think it was JAG fan clutch too . , as the clutches  vary in thickness . tech site has info on that . 

Sometimes parts get mixed over 60 years wrong blades etc etc 

personally if building new i’d look at modern aluminum 440 covers and pump , at least you kniw they go together , and pump fully evolved 

but my bet is fan clutch 

john 

Sent from my iPhone

On May 5, 2024, at 3:37 PM, Steve <sbeard2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:



Hello again from Delaware,Ohio. 

Got a overheating issue.

2 weeks ago drove it 50 miles. Brought it in and it was super hot. Put a new thermostat in  and temp guage was in the middle. Flushed engine today 3 times and new antifreeze.

Drove it 50 miles, temp outside 70.

Brought it in and radiator was gurgling and super hot and upper radiator  hose was not the usual stuff hose. 

Was steaming a little. Had radiator done within 5 years and new water pump also

Infrared temp at radiator cap 200, and engine 240.

Got a week to figure it out or a big no on driving to kokomo. 

Thanks in advance.

Ps

Got a new water pump ready to go?

Thanks

Steve Beard 

300 F

Delaware,Ohio 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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