Just
a note, I believe poly is resistant to oil, more so
than rubber, rubber that just
falls apart on non pristine engine; this can matter
----a lot. A person with
Chem E background may comment more on that.
second
, they squeak like crazy , including “polygraphite”;
which is a
marketing recovery term. ; I used them in a 67 Cuda
273 convert suspension ,
liked the stiffness, but hated the squeak. Used also
for sway bar hangers where
stiffness helps, but sounds like mice under there. I
believe they were removed
for rubber due to noise.
I
think they should be great for motor mounts and tranny
mounts . Ever look at an
old K frame end , torsion bar rubber swivel bushing?
Usually takes a set off
center ~ ½” . One clue, tire hits inner fender when
backing up on sharp angle
turn. As alignment is, er, not there. But I guess
smooth ride....
Have
used the Schumacher bonded A block mounts that sort of
rewrap in so they will
not shear off at a bond. I liked those.
Imperial
is a great source; period.
Ya
take yer pix.....my .02
John
Grady
PS
Bob , be super extra careful to really take the
steering box bolts to frame to their
rated torque on your A body, and use high grade , best
bolts . Ask me (and
Jamie Hyde) how we know. Called the Route 90 lane jump
. Every time a truck drafts
by you. Yet all steering linkage new and tight. Jamie
spotted whole box moving
slightly after 4 th time on a lift . Sounds crazy but
true . These were front
end mechanics....And you do need those leaf spring
wraps, or equivalent , or
springs will splay out. . A prior owner tossed them.
One
more PS, those clear round dials on 67 cuda dash can
push in about .060 and mechanically
hit gauge needles driving you crazy, the gauge is not
bad, it is putting the
cover on! Glue clear part to backing while apart!
Car
is great now.....!
Mike
et al,
I
am familiar with the concerns about substituting
polyurethane front end
components in place of OEM rubber originals and have
heard and read of others
finding the ride objectionable after rebuilding a
front end using aftermarket
polyurethane parts. In fact, that is the reason I
went with original OEM front
end components in the A body Barracuda project I have
in my garage.
Having
written that, I am at a loss to see how that would
translate to the same
concerns regarding engine mounts. As an example,
about 10 years ago, John Hertog
wrote a piece for our 300 website tech section, (I
think it is still there)
about repairing a failed engine mount, by making a
"Franken mount",
that is, drilling through the broken rubber mount and
securing it with a bolt,
through the steel into the failed rubber, and back out
again thereby allowing
the original mount to be placed back into service.
I
emailed him with questions about the fix, and asked
whether there was any
noticeable vibration from the engine transferred to
the frame using the Franken
mount, and he replied back that he could not notice
any difference. Based on
this feedback, my thinking was that since he did not
notice any difference with
his solid, bolted mount, that a poly mount substituted
for a rubber OEM mount
would have little to no affect.
Anyone
on the list have the poly mounts from Imperial
Services installed on their
car? Did you notice any difference? Another
question, if poly is a concern,
does anyone know of a service that revulcanates OEM
mounts with rubber? As a consultant
for the Inc. Club I get calls from individuals dealing
with failed motor
mounts, and have been referring them to Imp Services.
Recently, a high school
friend of my daughter asked me for help finding mounts
for the '63 Imperial he
inherited from his grandparents, and I sold him my
spare mount set to help him
out as the repops are pricey.
Bob
J
From: Michael Moore
[mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:04 PM
To: Bob Jasinski
Cc: 300
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G
I have restored several British
sports cars. Polyurethane
bushings in all sorts of colors are sold by major parts
suppliers, and people
love them because "they're stiff" and " they're tough".
There is nothing wrong with them. I just prefer not to
use them for a
subtle reason.
1. Several years ago, Sports and
Classic Car Magazine
(I think) had a cover story abut a comparison between
two MGA's, both of which
were on the cover. The cars were identical even to the
light blue color. One
car was totally original and very low mileage, around
30,000 miles as I recall.
The other car was freshly restored using modern
materials and parts but
still authentic. Two writers left in the two cars for
a weekend.They drove a
day to the other part of the country, overnighted,
then swapped cars the next
day for the trip back home. They then compared the
cars and wrote about it.
They were unanimous that the original car was superior
in every way, especially
handing and ride. The fresh restoration was very stiff
and harsh riding, and
not as comfortable for a long trip. It was attributed
to several things but one
major one was polyurethane bushings and body isolators
throughout.
I also had a friend who worked at a
British sports car
factory and he once mentioned how much trouble the
engineering department
went to determine exactly what hardness rubber to use
in various
bushings, They would take it to the test track, record
data, then spend time
removing softer bushings to install higher hardness
bushings or vice versa. A
lot of engineering time was spent to get everything
as it should
be.
Likewise, I personally designed
some very large industrial
isolators many years ago. I started with something
like 85 Shore B hardness,
tested, and went to 80 and tested. I eventually
selected the exact hardness
needed for my application. I have never seen any
hardness specification on any
isolators and would not expect anyone to ask or
answer-like I said, its subtle!
Finally, I restored a 63 E Type a
number of years ago. It
used OEM or NOS parts wherever possible and no
polyurethane in any of the
bushings or isolators. It drove like a dream. Then,
my son asked me to
restore one for him, which I did-but he wanted all the
boy racer stuff.
Competition shocks, nice red poly bushings , etc. So
for a year, I could
drive either car as I finished up his car.
I would not have realized how
horrible his car was had I not
been able to drive my car also. It was a different
car-but it was very stiff,
and he loves it!
That's my opinion, and there is
nothing wrong with poly
bushings. They are tough.
Michael,
That's
bad
news. I just let a spare pair of originals go
because I thought I could
always get new ones. I wonder how wide spread
the problem is, polyurethane is
very popular for front end parts. Any others
on the list having a bad
experience with the repro's? What does
Imperial Services have to say?
Warranty?
Bob
J
From: Michael Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014
4:25 PM
To: Bob Jasinski
Cc: 300
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300G
Bob,
Thanks I prefer not to use
polyurethane, I have a used
floating power poly mount now which is
separating, I'd like to find an NOS
rubber mount, or a good used one if possible.
Michael,
Have
you tried this vendor?
http://imperialservices.net/imps.html
Bob
J
Jeff responded to
my email today and has been terrific
help.
I need a NOS
220237 left side engine mount
though and he
doesn't have them.
Mike Moore
Jeff Carter has
more parts than you
can imagine. Contact
him at JC Auto
Restoration in
Seattle.
Google for website and
phone number. Great
guy; good to work
with. He restores
our letter cars to
perfection but has
warehouses full of
parts.
I'm new to the group and the 300 club. I have
two
300k's as well
as a 300G that
I'm trying to
bring up to par.
Currently
I'm trying to
hunt down a pair
of inner fender
inspection
plates for the
300G.
Any info on
their potential
acquisition
would be
appreciated.
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