Re: [Chrysler300] Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  What I have seen is wheel fasteners over tightened. This practice stretches studs and destroys nuts. It is important that any threaded fastener be brought up to a proper torque. This establishes a clamp load. 

  Parts can be distorted with too much clamp load. Too low clamp load and things come apart. Bring a fastener with compromised threads up to proper torque and the clamp load can be low enough to the point that the clamped assembly will come apart. This is the problem I have seen many times and is why I make sure wheel nuts are free running and have dry graphite lube on them. Trucks, big trucks, cars, tractors, everything.

  The factor I remember is 20%. Back off 20% from book spec dry clean thread torque values for lubricated threads. But, what kind of lubricant. I have been happy with DGF treated threads because I have never had any problem removing any fastener that had the treatment and was torqued to book spec. No fastener damage either. And, wheels fasteners leave my shop hand torqued to manufacturers spec and they don't come off by accident and they do come off in a respectable manner for later service. So, my experiences after 20+ years with the stuff leads me to believe that with DGF treated threads, the resulting torque using DGF is within allowable tolerance. Clean threads torqued to spec with a dusting of DGF and I do not worry about wheels coming off. Or,  that the rotor on a Mercedes, Volvo or any other car that is picky about evenly torqued wheels is warped enough to cause a noticeable shimmy.

  A study could be made using strain gauges. Bolt stretch is used to establish necessary clamp load for critical assemblies. My less than analytically documented procedure has worked well for me for many years and is why I mentioned it.

  Warren Anderson  Sedona,AZ (good grief it's snowing again) 




    
  Warren,

  I am surprised to read that you use a lubricant on lug nuts. Most service
  manuals I have read state to torque lugs to spec on dry threads only. Years
  ago I applied a lubricant to lug nuts and had a very difficult time getting
  them off because they were over torqued due to the lubricant. I would never
  lubricate lug nuts myself, as it would affect the torque rating.

  Bob J

  From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
  Behalf Of Warren Anderson
  Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 4:33 PM
  To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Ronald Kurtz
  Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent



  Hello, everyone:

  I'm down to my last can of Gulf "Part-Ease" Loosener & Lubricant. This stuff

  contains colloidal graphite, petroleum distillate and 1/10 of one percent
  ortho 
  triaryl phosphate that creates a graphited, heat-resistant film to keep the 
  valve operating freely. It really works.

  I came up empty on a search for this and Mopar p/n 1879318. Does anyone know
  of 
  a comparably formulated solvent that works well on these heat control
  valves?

  Best,
  Ron Kurtz
  E #292

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  I have used a Macs product that is available at NAPA parts stores. Part
  number is 1413, Dry Graphite Film Lubricant (DGF). Also, Jig-A-Loo has a
  similar product that also works well and I remember came from Home Depot.

  I have used this type product for many years on every lug nut and bolt I
  have touched. I find it superior to anti seize products (like my favorite
  Never Seez) that leave a residue as the residue collects dirt; DGF does not.
  And, without the DGF (or an anti seize product and not ordinary oil), wheel
  fasteners are very likely not torqued properly. Very important where wheel
  fasteners are hammered home with power wrenches. 

  Warren Anderson Sedona,AZ

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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