RE: [Chrysler300] Protecting hard to access enclosed areas

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I could/should have replied to just Carlton on this, but 300s and rust are perhaps two of 300 owners biggest fears and something most to be avoided - so my reply is on the list, and it up to owners to decide how the weight what said in it.

And sorry to spend space covering this topic again, maybe the Club consider putting specialist topics like this on the site, so it does not bore those who already know. I have just taken a few months time off this site to avoid posts like this, and do not intend they ever again be this long, or I remove myself again.

 

POR versus other rust products?

I once was like Gary in believing 110% POR was the answer for stopping rust, but two things to consider.

1) I have found it one of the most toxic, harmful to one's life/lungs, if spraying it, and especially if in confined area like Carlton asks about, or say just underneath a car when you are spraying above you, say like it on a hoist.  You need THE HIGHEST QUALITY MOST PREOFESSIONAL RESPIRATOR, or you are in for grief, maybe permanent lung etc damage. POR I think hint at how dangerous spraying it is, and need for most expensive respirator.

2) maybe more concerningly, if applied in a coat as thick as one may normally apply other enamel type paints, it can 'boil' as it drys - leaving little pinholes, 'pocks' in the paint, which I presume then can allow rust to start.  POR did not a while back adequately (or really AT ALL?!) warn of this fault, problem, and when asked about can it happen, they sort of said yes, and added something like 'but if they said everything possible, it would take too much space' ??!!

On talking to other professional spray painters, they said they too had had similar trouble, had only put on usual, not thick coats, as done daily with all other paints, and would never use it again.

POR product rep's answer back when they gave the belated explanation, was it better you apply multiple thin coats.  And that multiple coats needed, or else might not work?! I tried this, by using different colours each coat, so I could see each time I had covered enough, but not too much.

(As annoyingly, applied even in a way not usually thought thin, POR seems to allow rust less than a good grey or zinc primer?!)

 

As one simple example of many I discovered : A guy restoring a '59 Buick Wagon that he got professionally sandblasted, then had black POR applied, and the car never out of a concrete floor garage, has now just a few years later rust coming through, started on, the still viisible POR paint on the frame rail areas not covered yet by front fenders.

 

Enough about possible things to investigate if thinking of POR (I think I saw a users/consumer website re such things), other 300 members have mentioned Waxol, and this is possibly like a product I know works - even in extreme high humidity conditions like near the ocean in tropics - Valvoline "Tectyl" - a brown wax like product. Valvoline make a couple of variations - all I think you can thin with turps, thin most for hardest to get into first applications, then thin less for repeat coats to build protection.  BUT FIRST MUST BE ABSOLUTELY DRY WHERE GOING TO SPRAY INTO  - use a hair dryer which will not burn paint and trim like a heat gun will.

Valvoline on back of 4 litre can I have, list "Tectyl 544 is a pliable coating which has a polar attraction to metal surfaces. It is an ideal rust preventative for inner cavities and underbody of motor vehicles." end of quote.
In the US, elsewhere, there are likely as good equivalents, I not banging Valvoline's drum for any reason, other than I know no one who has ever had problems if first all areas dried out.

 

POR, apart from their gas tank sealer which I found brilliant, nearly killed me (cramps, lung discomfort, etc for 2-3 days after) twice even when being supercareful re respirators, and personally a good quality 2 pak primer (like PPG's Ameron types) likely gives better protection ?!

New Ford cars in Australia, on opening the trunk, one often sees on painted underside areas of trunk lid and in 1/4s a similar brown waxlike product to Valvoline Tectyl has been used - Ford give a lifetime rustout panel protection, so they must think it OK.

 

Others have their say - rust is any car owners scourge if they wish to see their car stay good.

 

Christopher Australia


To: schroe99@xxxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:45:01 -0700
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Protecting hard to access enclosed areas

  



POR 15 is the absolute best for rust control. It actually likes tight rust.
With a garden sprayer you can reach spaces not accessible to spray gun. I
also drill holes in end of rockers to reach from both sides. Not cheap at
$150 for a 4 quart pack. Depending on what you plan to coat may only need 1
or 2 qts. Goggle POR 15 to find sources all over the US.
Any restoration shop worth it's salt uses POR15.

Thank you,
Gary, the parts doc
Reno, Nevada 89521 USA
The Biggest Little City In The World
Mail: garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
775 851-1420

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On
Behalf Of Carlton Schroeder
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:11 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Protecting hard to access enclosed areas

Howdy,

There is good frame-painting info in the Tech Area of the Club website but
I didn't see any info on protecting the hard-to-access enclosed areas in the
sub frames and enclosed channels in the trunk area. There are many access
holes for air blowing and high-pressure water cleaning so I think they can
be cleaned pretty well but they probably would still have surface rust.

Without having an option to dip the frame area in paint would spray
painting through the access holes be adequate?

Does anyone have other suggestions that would result in decent protection
to the interior surfaces?

Thanks,

Carlton Schroeder
Eagle River, WI
(2" snow yesterday and temps about 15 - 20 F below normal)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Need a place to rent, buy or share? Let us find your next place for you!
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/