RE: [Chrysler300] Winter Vacation - Taking the "G" Apart

["christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Re the advice re pulling a 300G apart - the latest suggestion of 
needing/using a cutting torch.

The cutting torch is generally usually a last resort item use - however 
smaller oxy tips rather than the big cutting head are excellent for seized 
or stubborn nuts that won't undo.  Bumper bracket to chassis bolts, 
especially rear ones, are usually candidates for heating with the oxy - 
first just enough to get the exposed threads glowing white where there is 
rust. The oxy if carefully used can burn this rust off, and then heat the 
nut. Spray some lubricant on as has cooled, reheat again if still seized.  
Some like to try to undo hot, but I rather let cool somewhat. Two or three 
tries usually sees them unseize, and if threads burnt clean, often can undo 
without too much force.

Oxy can also be used on exhaust manifold nuts, but take care with seized 
studs into cast iron, or generally heating cast iron - it can crack when it 
cools, so least heat of cast to red is best.  On panel steel, use a wet rag 
around seized trim nuts if no other way, but use smallest tip, and big wet 
rag right up to edges of nut trying to free. You likely will bubble or burn 
paint, so do not do this if not repainting car, plus it better not to heat 
panel steel, as more likely/prone to rust later. Do not use on pot metal 
unless feeling lucky -you may melt the diecast.

If safe to hit whatever seized/stuck - like a stud or nut - you can let it 
cool, then a few decent blows with a hammer or drift can suddenly see heated 
item free up - of course spraying a lubricant like CRC or Inox can also 
help.

Count ourselves lucky you are not working on GM late 60s -early 70s - like 
the 67 (Gto) intermediate cars - today I have been undoing (rather breaking) 
the body mount bolts that go up from the top edge of ther chassis into 
brakets that are under the floor - no chance of heat when 6 inches up inside 
chassis, and captive nuts not accessible from above are in brakets about 3 
inches below floor and unseen, not accessible (maybe only this bad on 
convertible?) - 300F and G have no chassis if I am correct, but GM seem a 
real mongel to work on re Ford and Mopar re making everything much more 
difficult when bolts etc are now rusted after over 30 years. Am just 
finishing a 71 El Camino, and it was worse to work on than my 62 XKE Jag, 
and I never thought I would say that!!!  And I have 2 Pontiac GP SJs to do, 
(one a tidy up, the other a full if I ever feel like it) so maybe my last 
300C is looking more likely to get finished before I tackle another 118" 
whellbase 69-70 GM - what are others' experiences of Mopar versus the rest 
!!?

Good luck with the G - only other suggestion I make, is try as much as 
possible to always try and keep the associated stuff together - ie all dash 
stuff as seperate item, say front suspension, brake, etc stuff together for 
each side, say all intake manifold and brackets. linkages, etc, bolts. clips 
etc. - and write on box, jars, tins, etc what the items/bolts are. Otherwise 
when you have everything all sandblasted painted plated, you can be 
overwhelmed by what went where, or where that special bolt or little bracket 
is?

We all think it is going to be less time than we think before putting it all 
back together - have a system, record and photo all items that are part of 
each area/item - and your grief may be less than it might/could be.

Christopher in Australia - New Years Day in Sydney saw 2nd highest summer 
temp ever (45 celcius - about 115+ degrees), and here in SA we got 43, 
followed by 39celcius, but rain on next day (New Years day) - bad for fires, 
few homes lost before change came in saving many.




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