Re: Re: [Chrysler300] Help re recoring rad for 62 300

[<smopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> The core I used is from Craig Radiator Manufacturing Company.  They are a California company located in Montebello.  They claim they serve the majority of radiator shops in Southern California.  They will only sell to radiator shops, not individuals.  You can have your radiator shop contact them at 323 726-7355.  The model core I used in my 1970 Chrysler 300 was an SPL CL model with 3 rows of tubes and 16 fins/inch.  Previously I was using a Modine 4 row core with far fewer fins, and it was cataloged as a "heavy duty" core.  The difference between the two was surprising.  I will never again buy a Modine anything.
Steve
> From: <smopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2004/10/28 Thu AM 01:53:01 EDT
> To: <smopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>, Fern Rivard <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Re: [Chrysler300] Help re recoring rad for 62 300
> 
> 
> 
> > The best radiator core that I have found is made by Craig, but it must be the special CL model with 16 fins/in.  Compared to the Modine heavy duty core I had previously, the difference was night and day.  I could not find a way to get my radiator temperature above 190F even on a 105F day with the a/c on at idle drive condition.  Mine was a 3 row core.  The Modine 4 row wouldn't even go a few minutes without the temperature starting to climb.  Within 5 minutes under such conditions, I had to shut the a/c off and rev the engine to keep it from overheating.  The fin count was the big difference.  
> > From: <smopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 09:04:11 EDT
> > To: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>, Fern Rivard <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: Re: [Chrysler300] Help re recoring rad for 62 300
> > 
> > 
> > > I keep hearing this matter of flow rate through the radiator being an important consideration, but I do not believe it is correct for the range of variability that exists in an automotive cooling system.  For a given radiator, speeding the flow of fluid through it will generally increase the heat rejection.  This is because as fluid flow increases, the boundary layer of the fluid decreases and heat transfer increases.  Thus, unless there is a lot of turbulence taking place, faster flow through a given radiator will generally result in more total heat transfer for the system.  I believe it would be difficult to physically increase the flow rate through automobile cooling systems to get turbulent flow conditions given the normal range of radiator sizes, water pump outputs, and thermostat openings.  The real problem is that the radiator is usually too "small".  To address overheating, one would want a larger radiator with more fins and tubes to provide more surface for heat dissipation.  The thermostat will do what it needs to do (and when you are close to overheating, it will be wide open)and the water pump output is fixed (with some available that will put out somewhat higher flow - they can only help, although you might blow your heater core/core plugs more easily under hard acceleration).  Most of these older Chryslers have the most difficulty with heating up under low speed traffic conditions with the air conditioning on - once traffic starts moving, the temperature drops quickly as flow rate picks up and heat rejection increases, usually, unless the radiator tubes are blocked with sediment.  What is most important is to have a radiator with enough tubes, but more importantly, one with enough fins per inch to do a good job of cooling.  Most aftermarket cores from Modine and the like have low fin counts and cool poorly even with more rows of tubes, even the so-called heavy duty ones.  I found a core supplier recently that has a high fin count per inch, and after throwing out my Modine, and going to this other brand, my overheating issues are gone.  I can't recall the name of the core supplier, but I can check my records and get back.
> > Steve Albu
> >   
> > > From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Date: 2004/10/27 Wed PM 03:59:12 EDT
> > > To: Fern Rivard <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, 
> > >         chrysler300 <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Help re recoring rad for 62 300
> > > 
> > > 
> > > What's really important is flow rate.
> > > Size dosen't matter as much as how fast the coolant goes thru the rad. Too
> > > fast and it dosen't shed the heat, leading to overheating. Some of the rate
> > > is controlled by the thermostat, as well as the pump. But the rad itself is
> > > an issue also.
> > > So ask about flow rate at the shop.
> > > Ray
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Ray Jones, Jones Ridge, in the Ouachita Mtns near rural Mena, Western
> > > Arkansas. 
> > > All Y'all come visit, Y'hear? We'll set onna porch and sip a few!
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 07:50:18 -0700
> > > > To: "chrysler300" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Subject: [Chrysler300] Help re recoring rad for 62 300
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > I went to our local radiator shop to get the radiator for my 62 300H
> > > > rebuilt but they tell me that they CANNOT get the original 5/8" tubing
> > > > anymore!  Is this fact or am I being given a snow job by them?  If this
> > > > is correct, then what is the best approach to rebuild this rad? They
> > > > suggested using 1/2" tubing while another rad shop in another town
> > > > suggested going with the larger 3/4" tubing as it is supposedly more
> > > > efficient but also more expensive.  My car has factory a/c so need the
> > > > best cooling possible.
> > > > Fern
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
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