[Chrysler300] Digest Number 916
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 916
- From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 7 Mar 2004 13:09:03 -0000
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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Charles Holmberg 300 stuff
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
2. Steering Wheel Restoration - reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 2005 Chrysler 300 (Not 300C)
From: "ken boyd" <Kenrand65@xxxxxxx>
4. RE: 2005 Chrysler 300 (Not 300C)
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Parts, Parts,Parts for sale: reply
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Chrysler 300 C (New Version)
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Gasket sets
From: Gary Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 10:04:46 -0800
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Charles Holmberg 300 stuff
Hi Charles,
I got my last set of dual points from Carquest. The # is AL 5677XP2, with the condenser # AL118X. They are re-boxed blue streaks in Carquest packaging. I've also had good luck with Borg Warner brand, but I don't have a number for them.
The shafts are not available to my knowledge, but bushings are. John Hertog has those part #s. I have not had a distributer yet that needed bushings though. The New Yorkers and Imperial would be single point distributer engines. The big problem with them is dwell variation when the vacuum advance is applied. I've seen as much as 4 degrees at the distributer (8 at the crank) in really bad ones. This advances the spark to much at part throttle and causes pinging. The causes I've found so far are the point plate itself, and to much shaft play between the dist cam and the shaft. The best fix, unless you have a lot of spare distributers to play with is dual points or electronic ignition.
There are no real special tools required, you will need a suitable drift to take the roll pin out of the shaft (be careful with the plastic collars, and mark their position on the shaft), and a pair of small snap ring pliers to remove the wire retainer that holds the distributer cam to the shaft. It can be a real challenge to get out sometimes, but patience usually pays off. There is a small felt piece on top of this ring that is designed to be oiled, to lubricate the shaft. The same thing, only larger is used in starter end plates if yours is missing. I hope this all helps. I'm CCing the listserver also as this info can help others also.
300ly,
Don in RI
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Holmberg
To: Don Verity
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 11:17 AM
Subject: Charles Holmberg 300 stuff
Hi Don. We met at the Plymouth Meet and you gave me a ride in your neet 300G. These days, I'm trying to get the correct points for my 4-speed K. I heard Blue Streak are the best. When I ordered some, they came back opposite like as if they're for another vehicle. I was wondering if you can supply me with a correct Blue Streak part number for the dual-points & condenser for a 300-K 360 HP. Also, Don, since I have 3 other 64 Chrysler's, New Yorkers & Imperial, I wanted to be be able to rebuild my own Distributors. Can you tell me if the shafts are still available, and would you tell me about the special tools required and how to get them. Thanks, Don, Hope things are going fine for you & your Letter Cars. Charles
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 12:35:01 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Steering Wheel Restoration - reply
Hi Ken,
Since you mention interest in a 1961 Chrysler 300 steering wheel - you
really want to talk to Mike Burke, (MI) re: clear steering wheel
restoration. (see his contact info in the roster, or his ads in Club News
under "parts of sale" )
Mike is working with a Swedish connection as far as having the clear wheels
restored in Sweden. He did round up a few of them and has some in the works
now. His plan is to be able to sell them on an exchange basis - you send him
your core, you get a restored wheel back.
I do not want to spread disinformation, but I do believe that the projected
cost was in the $700.00 range for such a restored wheel, versus somewhere
around $1200.00 or more for a wheel restored by Dennis Crooks of Quality
Restorations in CA www.qualityrestorations.com
The problem with Studebaker wheels, and other similar restored wheels, is
that they are not clear wheels - therefore a lot easier to reproduce or
recast.
Meantime, Mr. Crooks does a wonderful job, albeit at a relatively expensive
price.
The restoration process is quite complex - in that the wheel must first be
stripped of all plastic; then the outer rim must be re-chromed ; then, it
must be recast in plastic, either solid tan or grey (depending on year);
and the clear portions also recast. Complicating the process is the fact
that our steering wheels are far from being round in shape.
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "ken boyd" <Kenrand65@xxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:13 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Steering Wheel Restoration
>
> I see posts quite often on Steering Wheeel Restoration.
> Shrock Brothers in PA are restoring Studebaker Wheels as well as hard to
> find rubber parts.
> Maybe if we get a list together of those members that are in need of
having
> a wheel restored someone could contact them with the needs and see if they
> would take on the project (Maybe a Club Project).
> Their price for a Studebaker wheel is vey resonable compared to some other
> vendors. They just released a GT Hawk wheel at $450.00 which is quite
> complicated to restore.
> Put me down for a "61.
> Go to WWW.SHROCKBROTHERS.COM to check out their stuff. Currently they are
> strickly Studebaker.
> Maybe someone has already tried this?
>
> Ken Boyd
>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 15:21:15 -0700
From: "ken boyd" <Kenrand65@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 2005 Chrysler 300 (Not 300C)
Just received the "Chrysler" magazine in todays mail (Volume 3, Issue 1).
2005 Chrysler 300 on front and back covers, page 1 editorial, page 14
article and photo, page 40 ad, and page 60 ad.
No mention of a "2005 300C". Every reference is to the new "Chrysler 300"
with no"C".
Thought you might be interested.
Ken Boyd
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to help protect your privacy and prevent fraud online at Tech
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:54:16 -0800
From: "Louis M. Barrie" <lmbarrie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 2005 Chrysler 300 (Not 300C)
According to Michael Perugi, who is the Brand Manager of Premium Vehicles at
DaimlerChrysler, (whom I met at the Press Show in Palm Springs, CA last
month), there will be 4 trim versions of the new 300, with the top of the
line, hemi-powered version being known as the 300-C. MSRP loaded is $40k.
Unless there have been changes within the last month, this would explain
your article.
By the way, the new hemi will feature an electronic, multi-cylinder shut
down system that cuts off 2 and then 4 cylinders at cruising speed, and then
instantly fires them up on demand. After driving it, I can categorically
state that it drives much better than the Cadillac V-8-6-4 of the early 80s!
Louis M. Barrie
West Hills, CA
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 18:47:38 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts, Parts,Parts for sale: reply
Hi there, Gordon Snow in Colorado, and all...
Gordon, I want to let you know how much I appreciate your gesture - i.e. -
offering your parts to Club members direct, using the listserver - as
opposed to placing them for sale on ebay. That, in my mind, is what the
true spirit of Club camaraderie is all about .
I have received a lot more than I can ever repay, both in terms of
friendship, help, and, yes - parts too - from various other Club members
over the years. Some of these parts were just flat given to me, outright,
by friends who knew I needed them for one of my cars. They refused payment
of any kind. Others were sold to me at 'Club member prices'.
I really don't want to name specific individuals who thus helped me over the
years - mostly because I'd probably omit someone I should mention. But, to
those whose generosity I was the recipient of, thank you. You know who you
are.
I should add that this note is not meant to denigrate or criticize Club
members who DO list parts for sale on eBay in any way. To each his own. I
just really wanted to point out that I appreciated Gordon's e-mail very
much, and wish I'd see more gestures like his, more often.
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 20:17:19 EST
From: quentsmith@xxxxxxx
Subject: Chrysler 300 C (New Version)
If you go to www.Chrysler.com you will find all four versions of the new
300's including the Hemi version 300C. They list all four cars, the specifications
of each and the starting price of each. Optional equipment on the 300C
version is very limited. The car should retail for much less than the $40,000
referred to. The base price of the car is around $35,000 with all the options
included.
Quent Smith
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 20:58:47 -0800
From: Gary Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gasket sets
I don't know how old the gaskets are. In my past experience, I found the
older cork gaskets almost fall apart,. and rubber seals get hard and
not only will they leak easier they can wear a grove in your
crankshaft. as far as the head gaskets go I do my own cc in to find my
exact compression ratio and by using different thickness head gaskets to
fine tune my compression ratio. So just watch out for aging gaskets.
Gary Barker
Laurence G. Johnson wrote:
>Dave,
>Never used ROL products so I can't comment. This reply is more directed to
>your question about steel shim-vs-composite head gaskets. The comparison is
>not a matter of "good"-vs-"bad" but more a question of application.
>
>First, steel shims are .024in compressed thickness while composites are
>.038in to .042in compressed thickness. The thick gaskets will drop the
>compression ration about a point.
>
>Steel shim gaskets require straight, flat block deck and cylinder head
>surfaces or else they leak water or compression. These surfaces need to be
>.0015in or better when checked using straight edge and feeler gages.
>Composite gaskets are much more forgiving with regard to flatness.
>
>The thicker gaskets will raise the cylinder head installed position. This
>caused the intake manifold to set lower than intended sometimes leading to
>port and bolt hole alignment problems. Bolt holes in the manifold can be
>filed oblong to allow the capscrews to go in without interference.
>
>In summary, if you have freshly surfaced block and heads and good quality
>fuel in your area (94 octane) use the steel shims. If you have old crooked
>decks and bad gas, use the composites.
>
>Regards,
>Larry Johnson
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Dave Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
>>To: "Chrysler 300 Listserver" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>Subject: [Chrysler300] Gasket sets
>>Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:26:48 +1300
>>Group,
>> I have a Fel-Pro engine teardown kit for MoPar BB engines,
>>FS7891PT11 which I have had to rat for various bits for a 413.
>>Looking on e-Bay, I see full sets of ROL gaskets being offered by a vendor
>>with thousands of positive feedbacks, and no negatives.
>>These ROL sets interchange with the same Fel-pro numbers, plus, the vendor
>>throws in a valley pan gasket.
>>He asks about $46 for the whole set, which seems like extraordinarily good
>>value to me.
>>Anyone have any experience of ROL ?
>>Also, what is better? Steel shim head gaslets.........or composite? Or,
>>is there nothing in it?
>> Thanks in advance folks.
>> Dave in New Zealand.
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>
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>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
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