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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Chrysler 300 Hurst oil pressure
From: annbarbq@xxxxxxx
2. 300K pinstriping
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
3. Availability of 1960 Stop Light Replacement Lenses
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
4. [Fwd: Re: Advice needed: 413 and 727 leaks]
From: johnal <holst@xxxxxxxxx>
5. electric choke wiring
From: "a61300g" <a61300g@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. 300K pinstriping
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
7. 300K pinstriping
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxxxx>
8. Re: 300K pinstriping
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 10:53:32 EST
From: annbarbq@xxxxxxx
Subject: Chrysler 300 Hurst oil pressure
Oil pressure is now fine on my 300 Hurst! First of all, I want to thank
the
numerous 300 Club members that responded to my problem. The suggestions
were
all excellent and helped me a great deal to get this resolved. I have been
a
Club member for only a couple of years; had never sent an e-mail to the
group.
This 1st time I had a question, the response was immediate and I sure feel
good to belong to such a helpful group of individuals! I did not
previously
realize what an asset this group is if you have a problem-it is getting
cold in
Ohio and I had to get the car going and back to storage for winter.
I removed the Motorcraft new oil filter I had installed when I changed the
oil. It was basically empty even though I had run the engine briefly
several
times following the oil change. I took a new Fram oil filter and filled it
with
oil ( Club member suggestion ), then started the engine. Within a very
short
period of time, the oil pressure light went out - what a relief ! I then
installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge ( Club member suggestion). I
started the
engine and the gauge registers good oil pressure. There was a metal pipe
plug
at the top rear of the engine, right near the oil pressure sending unit
for the
oil pressure light, so I could use this port for the brass fittings to
supply
the pressure gauge ( did not have to install a T to supply both the
sending
unit and gauge.)
The new Motorcraft filter I had bought at a garage sale - it was old and
may
have been bad? In the future, I will always fill the oil filter with oil
before installation - very simple, makes great sense, but something I
never though
of before. I will also drain and refill the oil quickly when changing oil
-
not let everything drain down for a long period before refilling. Now that
I
have a pressure gauge, I will keep an eye on the pressure, and replace the
oil
pump if any problems - in the spring when it is warmer here in Columbus,
Ohio!
Snow will be here soon and it is getting too cold to crawl under the
Chrysler! Thanks a million for everyone's help, support and suggestions!
Steve in
Columbus, Ohio.
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 16:48:12 EST
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: 300K pinstriping
Hi, Members,
It's getting close to time to stripe the K. I know the top stripe is 1/4"
and the bottom one is 1/8" and the space in between is also 1/8". Can
anyone
tell me the distance between the top stripe and the "ridge" above it?
Also, how
far from the grille corner they start and how far from the taillight they
stop?
I know this is picky, but pinstripers tend to be creative, so I want to be
able to tell him exactly how I want it done.
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 18:14:32 -0500
From: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Availability of 1960 Stop Light Replacement Lenses
Hi to All,
I was one of the people that pre paid and pre purchased 1960 Stop Light
Replacement Lenses from George Laurie in Australia.
Previously, I purchased replacement back up lenses, front park/turn signal
lenses, license light lense and rear armrest courtesy lights for my
convertible. All have been extremely beautiful. Must tell you that the
boomerang stop light lenses are outstanding with rich clarity and fine
detail. They were US$250 + 18 shipping for the pair.
This was my experience and I share this with you with the usual
disclaimers.
If you wish to contact "DeSoto George" you can reach him at the e-mail
address below.
georgelaurie@xxxxxxxxxxx
Tony Rinaldi
1960 300-F Conv.
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 16:24:27 -0700
From: johnal <holst@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Advice needed: 413 and 727 leaks]
A trick i learned from a old mechanic on stopping oil leaks ( this works
on rocker covers, oil pans and transmission pans) is to take an
oversized punch and tap the back side of each of the bolt holes in the
pan or cover. this makes them slightly convex on the top side. thus
when the nuts are tightened additional pressure is applied out past the
area of the hole and transferred to more gasket area. over tightening
creates a concave area at the bolt and you get the leak back. so the
proper amount of torque is critical.
good luck
Johnal
Mike Apfelbeck wrote:
>Doug,
>When you get your new O ring, take it down to an industrial supply house
>and see if they can supply a "Viton" O ring in that size, it will last
>longer than the original type. It will cost twice as much (another 50
cents
>or so).
>I vote for the cast-aluminum valve covers, the originals have to be
>straightened perfectly and tightened just so, to seal, the first time you
>forget and tighten the bolts you are back to square one, all over again.
>Mike
>
>At 05:27 PM 12/1/2003 +0000, dnkjones@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>
>
>>Hi 300 folk,
>>
>>Well, the 413 transplant into my Pace Setter is one of those 'one step
>>forward
>>and two steps back' affairs. I finally got to where I could put fluids
in it
>>and two fairly familiar MoParly leaks immediately made themselves known.
>>
>>1) The pushbutton shift cable where it enters the transmission housing.
>>Where do you get a new O ring for the cable? Does that really stop the
leak
>>or are there tricks you have learned over the years to stop this thing
from
>>leaking?
>>
>>2) The rear of the rocker covers, which are the old 4-stud variety that
>>likes
>>to 'canoe' when attached. Oil is pouring past the nice new cork gasket
on
>>the
>>left rear corner. Should I go with a cast aluminum non-stock rocker
cover
>>set, or is there a secret 300 Club way to get the oil to stay inside the
>>cover
>>with the stock ones?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>
>
>For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:03:13 -0500
From: "a61300g" <a61300g@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: electric choke wiring
Hello All,
Installing electric chokes on my G and need advice on where to hook up
the wiring. Hooked up to the rear top oil pressure sender with poor
results. Should I route thru firewall to ignition switch or does someone
know better way ?? Also have a problem with the left ( and sometimes both
)
brake lights staying on after car is shut off - could be short in brake
light switch ?? All other lighting functions are normal. Thanks in
advance
for any help.
Del Kerney
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 23:02:07 EST
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: 300K pinstriping
Hello again,
Now I'm not sure whether the larger stripe goes above or below the smaller
one. I found an article in an old 300 Club newsletter which says that the
smaller stripe is on top. I can't tell from the few pictures I've found.
Can someone please help?
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 23:40:13 -0500
From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxxxx>
Subject: 300K pinstriping
Hey, a question I can answer!:
My 300K is black with red pinstriping. I'm pretty sure it's original. I
know the paint's original.
The narrow stripe is on top.
It's 3/8 inches from the body crease above.
It starts 1 1/8 inches from the grille, and stops 5 1/8 inches from the
rear taillight.
Additionally, at the front it's joined by an angled slash, but at the
rear it just ends without a cross piece. At the front, the angle
approximates the angle of the grill and the bottom is the longer part.
At the rear it's angled too, about 45 degrees from the ground with the
top the longer part.
Thomas DeBusk
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 23:46:50 EST
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 300K pinstriping
In a message dated 12/3/03 9:06:48 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
News4ge@xxxxxxx writes:
> not sure whether the larger stripe goes above or below the smaller
> one.
Hi George,
Narrow stripe on top for the K ( opposite for the
J
) There's a company out there that makes a perfect stencil kit for
this...
check your local auto paint supply house. I believe the company was
called
Finese Stripe or something like that and part number was 4 or F4. ( I
remember
the 4 as in "1964" )
Lay it out, paint over with some lettering enamel
and the peel back at 180 degree angle BEFORE it all dries. Real easy...
practice on an old fender or something to get it right if you need to.
Give me a
few days and I can email some photos of original stripes so you can see
where
they begin and end.
Mike Laiserin
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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