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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Interesting take on the 62 300
From: FFGREG32@xxxxxxx
2. re power window motors
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. timing and vacuum
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. 6 volt positive ground question
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: timing and vacuum
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. E-bay Scam!!
From: Rusty and Thelma Roe <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:49:17 EDT
From: FFGREG32@xxxxxxx
Subject: Interesting take on the 62 300
Saw this on the 62 to 65 Mopar list interesting looking hotrod.
http://www.livejournal.com/community/american_muscle/22755.html#cutid1 I
am excited as my
300K is nearing the end of the cosmetic portion of its restoration. I am
hopeful that I can make it to the Chrysler Nationals this coming weekend.
Will
there be a contingent of 300 owner's? I was at Carlisle and missed the 300
contingent somehow. Every time I went by the cars it seemed they were
abandoned. This
time I will have more free time unless Mr. Govier desires my help at his
swapspace as at Carlisle. Well, if any 300 owners will be there and want
to bring
spares with, I could use 5 14 inch steel rims for the K. Also needed are
two
horns, and J-bolt, washer, and wingnut for trunk jack kit. I am currently
attempting the revival of my rear window seal, I hope that my efforts
prove
successful. If not I have been directed to sources who have decent ones.
Fremans
seems to be an excellent source by the way. Well, I hope all club members
have a
great week! 300ly, Greg
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:23:25 -0700
From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re power window motors
I've just located a few Mopar power windows units marked 2520902. Can
someone please identify those for me as to what year and windows they will
work on. Thanks from Fern
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:14:19 -0600
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: timing and vacuum
Question for the mechanics in the group.
Can ignition timing (distributor position) have an effect on measured
intake manifold vacuum?
My 57 is running ragged after replacing the two silly Holley 2-barrels
with rebuilt original WCFB's.
I know distributor may have been bumped over the winter, but I'm having
trouble locating either a mark on the balancer or markings on the metal
tab that used to have 0-5-10 (?) or 5-0-5 (?) labeling.
I'm only measuring 10-12" of vacuum, and I think it should be closer to
20".
Car starts ok, runs at a fast idle, but seems to be running on less than
all 8 at low idle.
Also, while I have your attention, exhaust gas from the passenger side is
significantly warmer (at tailpipe) than drivers side. (no crossover tube
in exhaust system, and same volume of air coming out each side).
It was a long winter, so I changed (too) many things without being able
to restart after each to check progress. (pulled plugs to put new valve
cover gaskets on, pulled old Holleys to put on freshly rebuilt WCFB's,
relocated coil and wires to proper position to make room for air cleaners,
etc.)
Any help/suggestions appreciated.
If timing is too far advanced, and cylinders fire perhaps a tiny fraction
before intake valves are closed all the way, I assume that would reduce
vacuum, or am I over complicating things and the WCFB's are the most
likely culprit?
It should be simpler than this. It's just fuel and air in the right ratio
at the right time!
John
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:25:20 -0700
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 6 volt positive ground question
At the coil, on a neg ground, their is a wire from the horn relay to the
positive post and a wire from the negative post to the distributor. So,
on a pos ground is this reversed? Horn relay to neg post on the coil and
pos post on the coil to the distributor?
Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:48:44 -0400
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: timing and vacuum
John,
Ignition advance at idle has a dramatic effect on intake manifold vacuum.
Most engines of this period need 8-12 degrees of static (initial) advance
and should idle with 16-18 inches of mercury. Vacuum falls off to 6-10
inches and the idle roughens as the timing is retarded. If the initial
timing is too far advanced, the engine will appear to drag or even kick
back
on the starter while cranking.
I don't think that's your problem, however. Your post mentioned changing
carburetors, installing the original WCFB's. These carbs had heat
crossovers
cast into the cast iron base plates in the vicinity of the front throttle
bores. The original gaskets were asbestos-steel shim construction to
withstand the heat and had cutouts to match the crossover passage.
However,
the cast passages had many different shapes and positions and the gasket
has
to match the specific carb. If the gasket and passage mismatch, or if you
install them upside down, you will have a big vacuum leak and the engine
will idle with low vacuum as a result.
Give that a look before changing the distributor.
Larry Johnson
>From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] timing and vacuum
>Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:14:19 -0600
>Question for the mechanics in the group.
>Can ignition timing (distributor position) have an effect on measured
>intake manifold vacuum?
>My 57 is running ragged after replacing the two silly Holley 2-barrels
with
>rebuilt original WCFB's.
>I know distributor may have been bumped over the winter, but I'm having
>trouble locating either a mark on the balancer or markings on the metal
tab
>that used to have 0-5-10 (?) or 5-0-5 (?) labeling.
>I'm only measuring 10-12" of vacuum, and I think it should be closer to
>20".
>Car starts ok, runs at a fast idle, but seems to be running on less than
>all 8 at low idle.
>Also, while I have your attention, exhaust gas from the passenger side is
>significantly warmer (at tailpipe) than drivers side. (no crossover tube
>in exhaust system, and same volume of air coming out each side).
>It was a long winter, so I changed (too) many things without being able
to
>restart after each to check progress. (pulled plugs to put new valve
cover
>gaskets on, pulled old Holleys to put on freshly rebuilt WCFB's,
relocated
>coil and wires to proper position to make room for air cleaners, etc.)
>Any help/suggestions appreciated.
>If timing is too far advanced, and cylinders fire perhaps a tiny fraction
>before intake valves are closed all the way, I assume that would reduce
>vacuum, or am I over complicating things and the WCFB's are the most
likely
>culprit?
>It should be simpler than this. It's just fuel and air in the right
ratio
>at the right time!
>John
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:25:43 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: Rusty and Thelma Roe <saxblowr@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: E-bay Scam!!
Attention e-bay users.....I just got word from a friend of mine that he
was
just scammed out of $3600 trying to buy an ATV 4-wheeler.....the listing
was
on e-bay for a quick 3 day auction...the seller contacted my friend, the
highest bidder at the time and said he was leaving for europe, and if he
wanted to just buy the item he would unlist it from e-bay and sell it to
him
..the seller wanted a Western Union wire transfer....the money was sent
and
since it was unlisted from e-bay they have no liability for goods sold but
not delivered and have no record of the item being listed...the ATV was
never sent and the e-mail address of the buyer is no longer a valid e-mail
address...
I thought of all the e-bay items I have bought, and all the good luck
I have had with honest deals, but there are crooks out there and everyone
needs to be cautious and curious when something seems too good to be
true........Rusty Roe 300-c coupe
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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