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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Headliner's and Brake Drums some good news?
From: "Ron Kurtz" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. New drums
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. 300 G Heater Control
From: Lauren R Lampi <lrlampi@xxxxxx>
4. Fw: 300 G Heater Control
From: "Antonello Jelitro" <mopar@xxxxxx>
5. Re: 300 G Heater Control
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. ....and Brake Drums some good news?
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. ebay ?
From: Gary Finger <my300g@xxxxxxxxx>
8. 392 Water Pump
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: ....and Brake Drums some good news?
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. 300H Steering Wheel
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: [Chrysler300 Brake Drums some good news?
From: greektruck@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 08:05:49 -0700
From: "Ron Kurtz" <Mark268@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headliner's and Brake Drums some good news?
Hello, everyone
I bought a couple of 11"x3" rear drums from Kanter last year. The hubs were
not included. I sent them out to a heavy duty brake shop to remove the hubs
from my 11"x21/2" drums and install them on the new drums.
The Kanter price was $150.00 each at the time. (Glad to see your getting a
better price, Gary.) Installing the hubs cost approx. $70.00 for both. Don't
forget to supply the LH studs if they're needed.
Regards,
Ron Kurtz
E#292
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary W Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: gadickel <mythmythos@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Headliner's and Brake Drums some good news?
> Hi All
>
> I Called Kanter today re: the drum subject. For under $100 I wanted to
find
> out what we would get. As I expected you do not get hub. When I asked more
> questions he did not sound to informed. After, I went to inspect my 57
> drums. They are a 3 piece unit. The cast iron drum, center plate and hub.
> If the drum and center plate come as a unit them the studs and hub will
> need to be pressed out. If it is only the drum then it will be one heck of
> a job to replace as the drum is staked onto center plate at 19 places
> around the perimeter. If it only requires pressing out the hub then that
> will have to be done very carefully with press fixtures. If one starts
> pressing on the hub with out support fixtures it will distort the center
> plate and trash it.
> For what it is worth I suspect that it will be a Chinese part. Who in the
> US could tool up, sell low quantities to a vendor and the vendor mark up
> all for under $100. That said it does not mean all bad. I could be proven
> wrong.
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>
> At 03:16 PM 07/01/2003 +0000, gadickel wrote:
>
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Glad to learn that Kanter's Boontown, New Jersey, will be offering
> >reproduction brake drums for 1957 - 1962 era Chrysler products
> >starting later this summer. So says Fred in the latest catalog. It
> >appeares they will be priced within reason too. Could be we will see
> >them offered elesewhere as well. That is good news.
> >
> >Also right now on Ebay there is a fellow offering "correct"
> >headliners for 1962-1967 Chryslers if my memory serves me right. He
> >mentions these are correct for each year he is offering, and when he
> >correctly mentioned the "basket weave" pattern of the 62, I started
> >to think he is probably telling the truth. I bought my new headliner
> >about two years ago on Ebay and I think it is the same guy. In my
> >case the pattern was 100% correct and the material "alive" (not dried
> >out) and in good shape.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >For list server instructions, go to
> >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 08:53:38 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New drums
>I bought a couple of 11"x3" rear drums from Kanter last year. The hubs were
>not included. I sent them out to a heavy duty brake shop to remove the hubs
>from my 11"x21/2" drums and install them on the new drums.
Just a couple things that have not been mentioned and from experience should
be mentioned. The tooling necessary AND the expertise needed to properly
transfer new drums to old hubs should not be impossible to find. The studs
will have to be new also in order to provide the OE staked on configuration.
This is where the special tooling comes in. Left hand threaded studs some
have noted can be impossible to find and RH seems OK but will then not be
OE on left (drivers side) wheels. If the center of the new drum pilots
properly on the old hub, staked studs are, IMHO, not entirely necessary. In
any case, each stud is pressed out singularly so as not to distort hub.
I have ALWAYS cut new drums a very minimum (hopefully) amount so that they
will be round and not bell shaped etc. I have turned hundreds of new drums
and have not found one single new drum that was anywhere close to being
acceptable before turning. From watching club posts, I get the impression
that a lot of the brake problems that come up on this list could be solved
with a good drum resurfacing and proper rework of backing plate surfaces
where shoes ride. BTW, some old drums will need to be turned and then ground
to smooth over 'hot spots' and this service may be hard to find. With the
current new drum cost and availability factors, grinding drums for old cars
is feasible.
New hardware, new cylinders, new hoses, round drums and good attention to
all other details and brakes should be smooth and quiet and not dump the car
in the ditch.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:09:56 -0500
From: Lauren R Lampi <lrlampi@xxxxxx>
Subject: 300 G Heater Control
Hi 300 Group,
Need some help with the heater control block for a 300G ,Non Air.
This is the Plastic, 5 button control block, for the vaccuum lines
and electric connectors.
Part number 2096083
For five push buttons from the front
and 7 vaccuum hose connectors on the back.
It is about 3 7/8" wide, 1 1/4' deep, 1' high.
Three of the vaccuum connectors on the back of the block
have broken off. Old age and stress????
I have the broken off pieces.
Are there NOS, good used, Repro ones out there???
Or can I repair the one that I have???
Can you "glue, epoxy, cement" the little vaccuum connectors
back on and will it work well enough??
I think there was some discussion about this part and repair
one or two years ago.
Any help would be appreciated.
300ly
Lauren R Lampi
300G under construction
(Yes, This is the one that was rear-ended by a boat while it
was locked in my garage)
Grand Rapids, Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 20:25:05 +0200
From: "Antonello Jelitro" <mopar@xxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: 300 G Heater Control
> Hello from Italy
> I got my rebuilt one for my G from Jeff Carter. His address is on the link
> page of our website. He rebuilt mine, rechromed the bezel and painted the
> small arrows. Very nice job
> Antonello Jelitro
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lauren R Lampi" <lrlampi@xxxxxx>
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 8:09 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G Heater Control
>
>
> > Hi 300 Group,
> >
> > Need some help with the heater control block for a 300G ,Non Air.
> > This is the Plastic, 5 button control block, for the vaccuum lines
> > and electric connectors.
> >
> > Part number 2096083
> > For five push buttons from the front
> > and 7 vaccuum hose connectors on the back.
> >
> > It is about 3 7/8" wide, 1 1/4' deep, 1' high.
> >
> > Three of the vaccuum connectors on the back of the block
> > have broken off. Old age and stress????
> > I have the broken off pieces.
> >
> > Are there NOS, good used, Repro ones out there???
> > Or can I repair the one that I have???
> >
> > Can you "glue, epoxy, cement" the little vaccuum connectors
> > back on and will it work well enough??
> >
> > I think there was some discussion about this part and repair
> > one or two years ago.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > 300ly
> > Lauren R Lampi
> > 300G under construction
> > (Yes, This is the one that was rear-ended by a boat while it
> > was locked in my garage)
> > Grand Rapids, Minnesota
> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 15:54:45 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300 G Heater Control
You can repair the plastic nipples with small metal tubes. Determine the
I.D. of the nipples and find some tubing with the same size O.D. Possable
choice is Ball Piont Pen ink cartriges. Nice strong tube and just might be
right. Work the tube into the valve and work the nipple on the tube. Use an
epoxy glue as lubricant, and you won't see the fix, Nor have it break again.
See ya in Dayton, Ray Jones
> From: "Antonello Jelitro" <mopar@xxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 20:25:05 +0200
> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Fw: [Chrysler300] 300 G Heater Control
>
>
>
>
>
>> Hello from Italy
>> I got my rebuilt one for my G from Jeff Carter. His address is on the link
>> page of our website. He rebuilt mine, rechromed the bezel and painted the
>> small arrows. Very nice job
>> Antonello Jelitro
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lauren R Lampi" <lrlampi@xxxxxx>
>> To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 8:09 PM
>> Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G Heater Control
>>
>>
>>> Hi 300 Group,
>>>
>>> Need some help with the heater control block for a 300G ,Non Air.
>>> This is the Plastic, 5 button control block, for the vaccuum lines
>>> and electric connectors.
>>>
>>> Part number 2096083
>>> For five push buttons from the front
>>> and 7 vaccuum hose connectors on the back.
>>>
>>> It is about 3 7/8" wide, 1 1/4' deep, 1' high.
>>>
>>> Three of the vaccuum connectors on the back of the block
>>> have broken off. Old age and stress????
>>> I have the broken off pieces.
>>>
>>> Are there NOS, good used, Repro ones out there???
>>> Or can I repair the one that I have???
>>>
>>> Can you "glue, epoxy, cement" the little vaccuum connectors
>>> back on and will it work well enough??
>>>
>>> I think there was some discussion about this part and repair
>>> one or two years ago.
>>>
>>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> 300ly
>>> Lauren R Lampi
>>> 300G under construction
>>> (Yes, This is the one that was rear-ended by a boat while it
>>> was locked in my garage)
>>> Grand Rapids, Minnesota
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>>> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>
>>> For list server instructions, go to
>> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 17:11:47 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ....and Brake Drums some good news?
Hi to all...
I agree with Gary Nelson, and Warren, on that one - do not rejoice too
quickly !
Very interesting that the factory service manuals, 57 thru 63, do not cover
front or rear brake drum servicing. Only replacement is mentionned.
In order to sell complete brake drum assemblies, the vendor / manufacturer
would have to stock FOUR different assemblies, as each drum assembly is
different from all others; front hubs are different from rear hubs, of
course, and right sides are different from left sides due to stud direction.
Therefore each assembly is unique - look at the parts book !
The brake drums were sold by Chrysler as an entire assembly, INCLUDING THE
HUB. That is for a good reason - they cannot be separated, at least by the
average home mechanic. The drums are held on to the hubs by the wheel studs,
which are staked on (mushroomed) by a special tool. Which is, of course, no
longer available. In order to remove the studs, and separate drum from hub,
one would need to un-mushroom the studs before pressing them out - again,
another special tool, no longer available.
If the special tool is not used to remove the studs, the hole that they fit
into, in the hub, will be damaged and new studs will not seat. Since they
have been mushroomed, they are wider as they come out of the hub/drum than
they were when installed.
One can prevent this from happening by grinding down the studs, almost
level to the surface of the hub/drum, before punching them out.
I am not convinced that there is a need to mushroom the new studs, as the
factory did, thereby affixing the drum permanently onto the hub. It seems
that new drums center themselves pretty good using the hub, and of course
the 5 studs. But, again, if the studs do indeed need to be mushroomed,
where to find the tool to do it ?
If anybody knows of a source for the two necessary tools to perform the drum
swap, please let me know !
John
"Warren Anderson wrote:
The tooling necessary AND the expertise needed to properly
transfer new drums to old hubs should not be impossible to find. The studs
will have to be new also in order to provide the OE staked on configuration.
This is where the special tooling comes in. Left hand threaded studs some
have noted can be impossible to find and RH seems OK but will then not be
OE on left (drivers side) wheels. If the center of the new drum pilots
properly on the old hub, staked studs are, IMHO, not entirely necessary. In
any case, each stud is pressed out singularly so as not to distort hub."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary W Nelson" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "gadickel" <mythmythos@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Headliner's and Brake Drums some good news?
> Hi All
>
> I Called Kanter today re: the drum subject. For under $100 I wanted to
find
> out what we would get. As I expected you do not get hub. When I asked more
> questions he did not sound to informed. After, I went to inspect my 57
> drums. They are a 3 piece unit. The cast iron drum, center plate and hub.
> If the drum and center plate come as a unit them the studs and hub will
> need to be pressed out. If it is only the drum then it will be one heck of
> a job to replace as the drum is staked onto center plate at 19 places
> around the perimeter. If it only requires pressing out the hub then that
> will have to be done very carefully with press fixtures. If one starts
> pressing on the hub with out support fixtures it will distort the center
> plate and trash it.
> For what it is worth I suspect that it will be a Chinese part. Who in the
> US could tool up, sell low quantities to a vendor and the vendor mark up
> all for under $100. That said it does not mean all bad. I could be proven
> wrong.
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>
> At 03:16 PM 07/01/2003 +0000, gadickel wrote:
>
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Glad to learn that Kanter's Boontown, New Jersey, will be offering
> >reproduction brake drums for 1957 - 1962 era Chrysler products
> >starting later this summer. So says Fred in the latest catalog. It
> >appeares they will be priced within reason too. Could be we will see
> >them offered elesewhere as well. That is good news.
> >
> >Also right now on Ebay there is a fellow offering "correct"
> >headliners for 1962-1967 Chryslers if my memory serves me right. He
> >mentions these are correct for each year he is offering, and when he
> >correctly mentioned the "basket weave" pattern of the 62, I started
> >to think he is probably telling the truth. I bought my new headliner
> >about two years ago on Ebay and I think it is the same guy. In my
> >case the pattern was 100% correct and the material "alive" (not dried
> >out) and in good shape.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >For list server instructions, go to
> >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 19:24:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Finger <my300g@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ebay ?
Looking for input. I'm thinking about selling a 1950
Chevy conv. on ebay. Anyone have any comments, good or
bad, about using this site to sell a vehicle? Is it
worth it? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
Please reply to my personal mail, so as not to tie up
the list server. my300g@xxxxxxxxx
Gary
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 23:44:40 -0400
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 392 Water Pump
Hi Group,
When I came home from a drive yesterday, the "D" was leaking water from the
water pump. Does anyone know of a source for kits or for rebuilt water
pumps for the 392?
Thanks,
Bill Huff
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 21:52:12 -0600
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: ....and Brake Drums some good news?
I have a set of correct NOS brake drums for my 300C that were bought about
two years ago. The instructions that came with the "bare" drums shows a
diagram on how to drill the old studs out from the back side. It indicates
that this is the proper way to remove the old studs on old drums and hubs.
It does not indicate how to get the new studs installed into the new drums
with the hub like they were from the factory. Consequently, I have never
installed them on the car and have subsequently gone to AAJ front disc
brakes.
If anyone finds someone that can do the proper job, please let me know.
Additionally, I have found the studs, both right and left hand to be
available without too much trouble.
George
57 Chrysler 300C coupe http://www.chrysler300c.com
62 Chrysler 300H coupe
58 Dodge Sweptside pickup http://www.sweptsides.com
59 Dodge Sweptside pickups http://www.sweptsides.com/moresweptsides.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hertog [mailto:crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 3:12 PM
To: Gary W Nelson; gadickel; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] ....and Brake Drums some good news?
Hi to all...
I agree with Gary Nelson, and Warren, on that one - do not rejoice too
quickly !
Very interesting that the factory service manuals, 57 thru 63, do not cover
front or rear brake drum servicing. Only replacement is mentionned.
In order to sell complete brake drum assemblies, the vendor / manufacturer
would have to stock FOUR different assemblies, as each drum assembly is
different from all others; front hubs are different from rear hubs, of
course, and right sides are different from left sides due to stud direction.
Therefore each assembly is unique - look at the parts book !
The brake drums were sold by Chrysler as an entire assembly, INCLUDING THE
HUB. That is for a good reason - they cannot be separated, at least by the
average home mechanic. The drums are held on to the hubs by the wheel studs,
which are staked on (mushroomed) by a special tool. Which is, of course, no
longer available. In order to remove the studs, and separate drum from hub,
one would need to un-mushroom the studs before pressing them out - again,
another special tool, no longer available.
If the special tool is not used to remove the studs, the hole that they fit
into, in the hub, will be damaged and new studs will not seat. Since they
have been mushroomed, they are wider as they come out of the hub/drum than
they were when installed. One can prevent this from happening by grinding
down the studs, almost level to the surface of the hub/drum, before punching
them out.
I am not convinced that there is a need to mushroom the new studs, as the
factory did, thereby affixing the drum permanently onto the hub. It seems
that new drums center themselves pretty good using the hub, and of course
the 5 studs. But, again, if the studs do indeed need to be mushroomed,
where to find the tool to do it ?
If anybody knows of a source for the two necessary tools to perform the drum
swap, please let me know !
John
"Warren Anderson wrote:
The tooling necessary AND the expertise needed to properly transfer new
drums to old hubs should not be impossible to find. The studs will have to
be new also in order to provide the OE staked on configuration. This is
where the special tooling comes in. Left hand threaded studs some have noted
can be impossible to find and RH seems OK but will then not be OE on left
(drivers side) wheels. If the center of the new drum pilots properly on the
old hub, staked studs are, IMHO, not entirely necessary. In any case, each
stud is pressed out singularly so as not to distort hub."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary W Nelson" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "gadickel" <mythmythos@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Headliner's and Brake Drums some good news?
> Hi All
>
> I Called Kanter today re: the drum subject. For under $100 I wanted to
find
> out what we would get. As I expected you do not get hub. When I asked
> more questions he did not sound to informed. After, I went to inspect
> my 57 drums. They are a 3 piece unit. The cast iron drum, center plate
> and hub. If the drum and center plate come as a unit them the studs
> and hub will need to be pressed out. If it is only the drum then it
> will be one heck of a job to replace as the drum is staked onto center
> plate at 19 places around the perimeter. If it only requires pressing
> out the hub then that will have to be done very carefully with press
> fixtures. If one starts pressing on the hub with out support fixtures
> it will distort the center plate and trash it. For what it is worth I
> suspect that it will be a Chinese part. Who in the US could tool up,
> sell low quantities to a vendor and the vendor mark up all for under
> $100. That said it does not mean all bad. I could be proven wrong.
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>
> At 03:16 PM 07/01/2003 +0000, gadickel wrote:
>
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Glad to learn that Kanter's Boontown, New Jersey, will be offering
> >reproduction brake drums for 1957 - 1962 era Chrysler products
> >starting later this summer. So says Fred in the latest catalog. It
> >appeares they will be priced within reason too. Could be we will see
> >them offered elesewhere as well. That is good news.
> >
> >Also right now on Ebay there is a fellow offering "correct"
> >headliners for 1962-1967 Chryslers if my memory serves me right. He
> >mentions these are correct for each year he is offering, and when he
> >correctly mentioned the "basket weave" pattern of the 62, I started
> >to think he is probably telling the truth. I bought my new headliner
> >about two years ago on Ebay and I think it is the same guy. In my
> >case the pattern was 100% correct and the material "alive" (not dried
> >out) and in good shape.
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >For list server instructions, go to
> >http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 22:03:21 -0600
From: "George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300H Steering Wheel
Who is the best on an authentic 300H steering wheel restorations??? Any idea
of price and time frame??
Thanks
George
57 Chrysler 300C coupe http://www.chrysler300c.com
62 Chrysler 300H coupe
58 Dodge Sweptside pickup http://www.sweptsides.com
59 Dodge Sweptside pickups http://www.sweptsides.com/moresweptsides.htm
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 00:04:42 EDT
From: greektruck@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: [Chrysler300 Brake Drums some good news?
sorry to bother you, but the only drums for a roadrunner arnt pressed on and
are 2.5 inch. can you point me in the right direction, i checked the earliest
year of 68 i think, to 71, and thats all i can find. I am probably blind or
just stupid not understanding, but any ideas, year of car, anything. thanks, and
sorry, tim
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