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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: 68 300 rotor question
From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. AMT CustomShop 1:25 300C
From: "Thomas Miller" <tfm@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: More Oil Stuff...
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: More Oil Stuff...
From: Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: More Oil Stuff...
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
6. Mopar question
From: jim helm <helmj@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: More Oil Stuff...
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 05:30:49 -0600
From: "Bill Johnson" <bjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 68 300 rotor question
Tom
It is my understanding that the answer to your question is NO!
(Unfortunately) As another 68 owner with Budd Disc Brakes, I have followed
numerous threads on both the C-Body list and the Imperial List. Actually
their archives will have a ton of information on it about these. It is
www.imperialclub.com if you want to check. Last I heard before I dropped
off
that list was one member was experimenting with a rotor off a 70 vintage
Toyota Supra that was close in specs. Some machining was to be required
but
I can't remember all the details. It seemed quite a long shot to me.
Good luck in your search and if you find some at a good price, pick me up
2
as well!
Whiteshoes
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:24:41 EDT
From: chry67300@xxxxxxx
Subject: 68 300 rotor question
Hello to all,
I have a 68 300 with factory disc brakes. I would like to replace my
rotors
with new pieces. I know they are nonexistent. The original 66-68 rotors
were
two-piece in design. 68-72(?) were one piece in design and I can get those
NORS. The bearings listed for both are the same parts. Can anyone tell me
form experience if I can use the later rotors? Thank you, Tom
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 09:59:17 -0400
From: "Thomas Miller" <tfm@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AMT CustomShop 1:25 300C
Greetings!
I picked up 4 of the above mentioned models at a local toy liquidator.
All of them are "predecorated" with green bodies and sliver trim.
If anyone is interested in the 3 extras, I got 'em for $6.50 a piece.
Add postage to and they're yours. Please email me privately if
interested.
Best Regards to all!
TFM
Thomas F. Miller
tfm@xxxxxxxxxxxx
614.975.4164 voice/page
707.667.2601 eFax
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:05:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Oil Stuff...
I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
too. I spent my formative car-owning years in Florida
and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
But I read something interesting:
Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he makes
custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25% because
it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10% and
are very corrosive to the materials used in older
engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy for
our cars - more so than wear at startup.
His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil for
diesel engines. Why?
1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is thicker.
2. 80% more ZDDP.
2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of the
corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
will free up sticky rings "quickly."
He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents will
knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
lifters.
Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it.
Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
Andy
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:09:27 -0400
From: Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: More Oil Stuff...
What about synthetic oils? Does anyone have experience using Mobil 1 or
others?
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Mikonis [mailto:r41hp@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:05 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
too. I spent my formative car-owning years in Florida
and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
But I read something interesting:
Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he makes
custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25% because
it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10% and
are very corrosive to the materials used in older
engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy for
our cars - more so than wear at startup.
His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil for
diesel engines. Why?
1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is thicker.
2. 80% more ZDDP.
2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of the
corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
will free up sticky rings "quickly."
He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents will
knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
lifters.
Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it.
Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
Andy
__________________________________________________
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Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:10:29 -0400
From: "Dave Grove Grove Automotive" <groveautomotive@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Oil Stuff...
Not an "oil expert" myself, - but (FWIW), I do recall that Chrysler
recommended 15w40 oil for their Turbocharged engines. They also
*specifically* stated to NOT use 10w40.
Regards,
DaveG.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
>
> I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
> too. I spent my formative car-owning years in Florida
> and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
> But I read something interesting:
>
> Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
> quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he makes
> custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
> best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
>
> He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
> primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
> dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25% because
> it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
> additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10% and
> are very corrosive to the materials used in older
> engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy for
> our cars - more so than wear at startup.
>
> His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil for
> diesel engines. Why?
> 1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is thicker.
> 2. 80% more ZDDP.
> 2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
> these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
> acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of the
> corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
> will free up sticky rings "quickly."
>
> He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
> dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
> non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents will
> knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
> lifters.
>
> Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it.
> Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
>
> Andy
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:32:35 -0700
From: jim helm <helmj@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Mopar question
Thanks to all of you very knowledgeable Mopar people on this list--it
really
does appear that my '57 Plymouth Suburban wagon with the Fury engine and
dual 4's is a "factory ordered" original. The car has only had two owners,
and just after I wrote this question to the listserver, I got in touch
with
a guy that knew the second owner. He says that the car was indeed special
ordered with this engine, and that it is probably quite rare. Anyway, it
is
a gem and I really appreciate the input from you folks!
Jim Helm
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 08:38:37 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Oil Stuff...
Andy and list,
My daily driver is an older MB 300SD Diesel. I use Chevron Delo 400,
15W40 in it. The last time I changed oil in th 300G I put in the Delo.
The Delo 400 has a rating of CH4-SJ, which classifies it as being suitable
for both gas and diesel. Diesels, by their nature, are more demanding on
an oil than a gas motor is in general.
Go to this site:
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/motoroils.shtm#delo
It has some interesting info on Delo and oil ratings in particular.
Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Mikonis
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
too. I spent my formative car-owning years in Florida
and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
But I read something interesting:
Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he makes
custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25% because
it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10% and
are very corrosive to the materials used in older
engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy for
our cars - more so than wear at startup.
His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil for
diesel engines. Why?
1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is thicker.
2. 80% more ZDDP.
2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of the
corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
will free up sticky rings "quickly."
He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents will
knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
lifters.
Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it.
Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
Andy
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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