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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Fw: cam
From: "Bob Merritt at Simplex Mfg" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Cam "Walking" in B/RB Chrysler engines
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Cam selection
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
4. Car show in Seattle
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
5. Misc. 1962 Needs & Questions
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. misc 62 needs and questions
From: "Pat Grant" <grant@xxxxxxx>
7. Hopefully not a stooopid question
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. to peen or not to peen
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Hopefully not a stooopid question
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: to peen or not to peen
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 06:29:06 -0400
From: "Bob Merritt at Simplex Mfg" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: cam
Forwarding this message from Jim McMullan regarding camshafts:
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim McMullan <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 9:49 PM
Subject: cam
>
> Bob please forward to list. On the subject of cams.There was only one
> person who really understood cams .His name was Bud Winfeild ( of NOVI
fame )
> Most of the modern cam grinders Iske,Croler,Potvin,amid many others went
to
> school at his knee.Most worked in his shop.He has bean long dead.But the
> principals he defined are still being used.Thought you young guys should
> know .I don't know if he ever got around to writing a book,if he did I
> would buy a copy.Jim McMullan 300 F.
>
> --- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 13:40:46 -0400
From: "skyhawk" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cam "Walking" in B/RB Chrysler engines
Hello everyone,
With all the discussion concerning cams, does anyone in the Club
have access to a Service Bulletin issued by Mopar in the late 50's or
early 60's concerning camshaft movement fore and aft ("walk") that
occurred frequently after a change in timing gears and chains? A
long-time Chrysler mechanic, now retired, told me that such a bulletin was
issued, and that he repaired dozens of cars, primarily D-500's with 383's
and 300- E's, F's, and G's with this problem. He said it made a noise
like a bad rod bearing, was audible primarily at the top/front of the
engine, was intermittent and did not show up until the engine was warm. It
was worse on the ram cars due to a lack of manifold insulation that was
used on the single 4-bbl cars. The fix, he said, was a new cam timing gear
with a thicker center that prevented the cam bolt from bottoming...he
believes that a bunch of "undersized" gears made it into production
somehow. If anyone has ever had this problem, or has a copy of the
bulletin, I'd like to hear from you.
Respectfully..
dennis cloer skyhawk @twave.net newton, n.c.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 15:40:41 EDT
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
Subject: Cam selection
Check out Comp Cams. they have a pretty good web site. <A
HREF="www.compcams.com">www.compcams.com</A>
Joe Schmitt
G H/T
Seattle
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 15:44:22 EDT
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car show in Seattle
For those of you in the area, there will be a car show on the 29th in
Seattle. Its the Greenwood Classic car and Rod show. it is on Greenwood
Ave
between 70th and 85th. Approx. 500 cars will be in attendance, including
my
G. Check it out if you can.
Joe Schmitt
Seattle
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 14:22:02 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Misc. 1962 Needs & Questions
Tearing into the '62 300 and are wonder about some things and am looking
for the following items, if anyone may have them for sale.
* Does the ignition switch bezel come apart from the green lens so
that it may be re-chromed?
* Can the push buttons for the trans. & A/C be separated from
their plastic indicators; again to be re-chromed?
* Anyone have a deluxe horn ring for sale with saddle tan pads?
* Anyone have a driver's side plastic A/C duct that goes between
the A/C hose & the A/C swivels for sale?
* Anyone have a spare pin that holds the lower A/C horizontal vent
to its chrome housing? This is the vent located drivers side under the
dash. Or can someone recommend a suitable item to use in place of a
factory pin?
* Anyone have a switch & knob for the lower dash supports for
sale? I'm looking to replace a current dummy knob at the "Rear Window"
hole and hook up my factory rear defrost. I'll use a dome or map light
switch & forego the dual speed switch.
* 1 non-300 question, if I may.(Anyone know if a wagon tailgate
torsion bar can be adjusted so the tailgate doesn't drop like a lead
weight? It was working fine & all of the sudden Jennifer has insane
biceps from opening & closing the thing!)
Thanks!
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:03:59 -0400
From: "Pat Grant" <grant@xxxxxxx>
Subject: misc 62 needs and questions
are you afraid she'll beat you armwrestling??
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:30:39 -0500
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hopefully not a stooopid question
The older Mopars, including the 300's, employ the use of L/H thread studs
on
the drivers side of the car. To convert these to all R/H threads, would
it
be easier to go and find two additional R/H thread drums, or should one
attempt to replace the L/H studs with R/H ones?
Karl
300G
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 19:43:29 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: to peen or not to peen
Hi Karl,
Best to find R/H thread drums, at least for the 60 thru 64 version that
have
the drum held on to the hub by the peened-over studs. On later versions
that
have the drum coming off from the hub, it's easy just to change studs.
Trying to remove the peened - over studs without proper ( and unavailable
)
tools will result in damage to the hub. First, one should have the proper
tool to remove ( cut) the peened-over area. Then , one should have the
proper tool to re-peen the new studs. Yeah, right...
John
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 16:50:55 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hopefully not a stooopid question
Just knock the studs out &replace them with right-handed ones, they cost
very little. As they are probably all as old as the rest of the car, I
would replace them on both sides with new ones as a safety consideration.
Mike
At 06:30 PM 6/23/02 -0500, Karl Peterson wrote:
>The older Mopars, including the 300's, employ the use of L/H thread studs
on
>the drivers side of the car. To convert these to all R/H threads, would
it
>be easier to go and find two additional R/H thread drums, or should one
>attempt to replace the L/H studs with R/H ones?
>
>Karl
>300G
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
>http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:51:11 -0500
From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: to peen or not to peen
That's why you get those "big bucks" isn't it John....because you have
this
wealth of information I would never have considered, and saved me (again)
from causing a headache later on. Thanks for the info. That alone has
been
instrumental in making up my mind as to what to do about these L/H studs.
Karl
>From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Karl Peterson <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] to peen or not to peen
>Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 19:43:29 -0400
>
>Hi Karl,
>
>Best to find R/H thread drums, at least for the 60 thru 64 version that
>have
>the drum held on to the hub by the peened-over studs. On later versions
>that
>have the drum coming off from the hub, it's easy just to change studs.
>
>Trying to remove the peened - over studs without proper ( and unavailable
)
>tools will result in damage to the hub. First, one should have the
proper
>tool to remove ( cut) the peened-over area. Then , one should have the
>proper tool to re-peen the new studs. Yeah, right...
>
>John
>
>
>
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