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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. broken bolts
From: "Pat Grant" <grant@xxxxxxx>
4. Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
5. Convertible vent wing weatherstrip
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:03:53 -0700
From: "ryan hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
Mark, I had the same problem with two of my 383's in the past. (the same
bolt in fact.....front right) Unless you are lucky enough to be able to
grab
some of the bolt that may still be protruding from the head, there really
is
only one way to remove it.
Soak the threads with penetrating oil for a few days. Generally, these
bolts
are not actually tightened into the hole but rather they use the tension
placed on them by tightening the nut against the manifold to hold them
securely in place so fortunately they don't (typically) require to much
torque to unthread them.
Center punch the stud and drill out as much of the stud as possible being
carefull not to drill off-center or drill into the threads of the head.
Then
use an "easy-out" to back the stud out. I'm not sure how much room you
have
between the engine and fenderwell? The first one I did, I removed the
inner
fender (my car's are 1965's) and the second one I was able to drill out
with
a small 90 degree air drill. The heat from the drill bit broke the threads
loose and I just backed it out attached to the drill bit.
Of course the alternatives are to lift the engine or remove the head. Good
luck. Anyone has any better methods I'd love to know for next time.
Ryan.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:47:33 -0700
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
That's the way we did it too. There is also a "hole shop" in our area
that specializes in this sort of stuff. There may be one near you if
you get really stuck.
Jennifer
-----Original Message-----
From: ryan hill [mailto:ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:04 AM
To: mplindahl@xxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
Mark, I had the same problem with two of my 383's in the past. (the same
bolt in fact.....front right) Unless you are lucky enough to be able to
grab
some of the bolt that may still be protruding from the head, there
really is
only one way to remove it.
Soak the threads with penetrating oil for a few days. Generally, these
bolts
are not actually tightened into the hole but rather they use the tension
placed on them by tightening the nut against the manifold to hold them
securely in place so fortunately they don't (typically) require to much
torque to unthread them.
Center punch the stud and drill out as much of the stud as possible
being
carefull not to drill off-center or drill into the threads of the head.
Then
use an "easy-out" to back the stud out. I'm not sure how much room you
have
between the engine and fenderwell? The first one I did, I removed the
inner
fender (my car's are 1965's) and the second one I was able to drill out
with
a small 90 degree air drill. The heat from the drill bit broke the
threads
loose and I just backed it out attached to the drill bit.
Of course the alternatives are to lift the engine or remove the head.
Good
luck. Anyone has any better methods I'd love to know for next time.
Ryan.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 17:29:25 -0500
From: "Pat Grant" <grant@xxxxxxx>
Subject: broken bolts
if you have access to a electric welder and can weld place a nut over the
bolt shaft and fill the inside of the nut with weld. should be able to
turn it right out.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:32:05 EDT
From: mplindahl@xxxxxxx
Subject: Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolt
Hi,
Thanks for all the information on extracting a
broken manifold bolt. There were many ideas
including age old, but not forgotten, techniques
involving welding, drilling, extracting, etc.
I'll let you know what does the job!
Thanks Again,
Mark Lindahl
'63 300 Conv.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:24:34 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Convertible vent wing weatherstrip
>
>FOR SALE: (rare find)
>1) NOS vent wing glass seal, p/n 1755 880,(right) 57/58 CONVERTIBLE
>coupe, 58 spc 4d, sp club coupe, all makes. This is as supple as a new
>born baby's bottom. $95 ouch! ouch!
>
>2) USED (left) p/n 1755 881, same application. Very serviceable,(not like
>that baby's bottom) Not cracked, checked or weather beaten. Even has a
>shine to the rubber. $50 ouch!
>
>3) USED (left) p/n 1755 881, same application. Very serviceable. One
short
>crack in one corner. No cracks or checks when you bend
> it. Has a shine to the rubber. $30 (1/2 an ouch).
>
>1 & 2 will sell as a set. I will pay freight in the US.
>Satisfaction guaranteed or return it. I can send digital photos upon
request.
>
>I had a deposit on a 58 conv. that did not fly. Got premature and scoured
>and paid the price for these.
>
>Gary, The parts Doc
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________
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