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There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Ball and trunnion conversion
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Ball and trunnion conversion
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Ball and trunnion conversion
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
4. '63 chrysler parts...
From: veeech@xxxxxxx
5. Re: '63 chrysler parts...
From: RONVE@xxxxxxx
6. Driveshaft conversion picture
From: SADuggan@xxxxxxx
7. Re: '63 chrysler parts...
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Ball/Trunion conversion
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
9. Changing sway bar bushings
From: SADuggan@xxxxxxx
10. H seat covers / seat back panels
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
11. F trunk lid
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
12. Questions about Rhode Island meet?Don Verity
From: "Jim & Debbie Soucia" <jstruck@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. driveshaft conversion
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Ball/Trunion conversion
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Parts ID
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. '62 Chrysler 300 found
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Fwd: 300C
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
18. 62 300 Cvt.
From: moodus1@xxxxxxx
19. 57 C engine
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:34:28 -0700
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ball and trunnion conversion
Hi Guys-
I ran into a vibration problem w/ my 63 Dart Convertible a few years back.
I replaced all the u joint parts- Everything including the housing and the
problem was still there. I had a transmission guy tell me it was the bushing
in the output shaft housing and replace it- still got a problem. So even
though the trany had been out I missed something- The rear tranny mount was
o k but my ex- wife had hit something with the under side at one point and
after remembering that little go round, I checked the cross member that the
mount bolts on and sure as h--- when I compared it to another one the one
from the car was bent upward, changing driveshaft angle. If the mount is bad
or crossmember has been hit on something like mine was it will drive you
crazy looking and spending time and $$$$ to find it!!! Don't do like I did
and over look a minor thing expecting a major job or replacing u joint parts
for nothing... Food for thought.. Joe Pierce.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SADuggan@xxxxxxx>
To: <CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 8:32 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Ball and trunnion conversion
> Hey Everyone,
> An update on the U-joint conversation. I had a vibration in my 62
while
> driving so after checking other things I figured it was the driveshaft.
The
> ball and trunnion joint had some play in it and the rear u-joint was
pretty
> stiff. I bounced around on whether to fix the old joint or convert it to a
> new system. So I took the shaft off and brought it down to the driveshaft
> shop here in L.A. Talking to the guys at the driveshaft shop, they
convinced
> me to convert it. They had one sitting there they had done the day before.
It
> looked like a more reliable piece than my trunnion joint, and even with
> fixing the trunnion joint I worry about wear in the housing.
> When they convert the driveshaft, the shaft is cut about 6 to 8 inches
> behind the ball and trunnion joint. The male end of a slip spline (I think
> that's what they called it) Is welded onto the existing driveshaft. A
female
> end of the slip spline, which has a yoke on one end, is slid over the male
> end. A U-joint connects the driveshaft to another yoke which is mounted on
a
> plate, that has the same diameter and bolt pattern as the trunnion
housing.
> It's fairly straightforward and it seems to be a lot stronger than the old
> joint. If anybody wants to see pictures, Just E-mail me.
> This conversion seemed like the right thing to do, but after
installing
> the driveshaft the vibration was still there. It was better but it was
still
> there.
> To make a long story short, a little arcing of the front brake shoes
caused
> the vibration to go away. At least I won't have to worry about my drive
shaft
> for a while, and when I shift between drive and reverse there's no
clanking
> sound anymore.
>
> I think I've rambled enough,
> See ya,
> Sean
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 23:53:50 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ball and trunnion conversion
Hi Sean,
Thanks for shooting the pictures of your driveshaft conversion project over
to me. I have uploaded them to my Web site for all to see ; be a lot easier
that way ! Just click on the link :
http://www.crossrams.com/dshaft/trunion.html
Sincerely,
John
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:38:44 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ball and trunnion conversion
That is a fine looking piece of work on the driveshaft. Anybody know of a
company in the northeast that is capable of performing the same magic?
Dave Moore
--- John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Sean,
>
> Thanks for shooting the pictures of your driveshaft conversion project
> over
> to me. I have uploaded them to my Web site for all to see ; be a lot
> easier
> that way ! Just click on the link :
>
> http://www.crossrams.com/dshaft/trunion.html
>
> Sincerely,
>
> John
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 00:53:21 EST
From: veeech@xxxxxxx
Subject: '63 chrysler parts...
My name is John. My daughter and I just joined the group and are in
need of help. We're looking for side window trim for our '63 2 door hard top
300. Its the trim that seals the top of the side windows to the top of the
roofline, but also seems to hold in the edge of the headliner. Also we need
the headliner bows, side mirror, and most all of the dash chrome.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
veeech@xxxxxxx cwealth@xxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:19:37 EST
From: RONVE@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: '63 chrysler parts...
In a message dated 3/14/2002 11:59:52 PM Central Standard Time,
veeech@xxxxxxx writes:
> My name is John. My daughter and I just joined the group and are in
> need of help. We're looking for side window trim for our '63 2 door hard
> top
> 300. Its the trim that seals the top of the side windows to the top of the
> roofline, but also seems to hold in the edge of the headliner. Also we need
> the headliner bows, side mirror, and most all of the dash chrome.
> HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> veeech@xxxxxxx cwealth@xxxxxxx
>
John,
Where are you located? Someone may be aware of a 'parts-car' where you can
pick the parts yourself!
Ron...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:49:38 EST
From: SADuggan@xxxxxxx
Subject: Driveshaft conversion picture
Hi All,
By the way, Everyone that I sent pictures to, you're not crazy. I have a
mac and the jpeg picture get compressed into a format that PC's can't read. I
was able to send individual jpegs to John Hertzog. John's got the pictures on
his web site. Sorry to try all your patience. I'll have to remember that in
the future.
For the pictures goto:
http://www.crossrams.com/dshaft/trunion.html
I'd like to thank John for sorting this all out.
Sean Duggan
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 06:00:03 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '63 chrysler parts...
Are there any parts from a '64 300 that would fit the 63? I've got a '64
300 Silver Edition that I am starting to part out with some decent
chrome/stainless steel trim pieces. Interior is not too good, mice had a
field day and some rot. But let me know if anyone needs something. I am
not "parting" with the drive train at this time.
I must confess I promised Mr. G. Barker to look for a them back on
November and over-estimated my available time and under estimated the
available daylight. But things are getting better and now we have more
daylight, so I will full-fill my promises.
I'm in central Connecticut.
Dave Moore
--- RONVE@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 3/14/2002 11:59:52 PM Central Standard Time,
> veeech@xxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> > My name is John. My daughter and I just joined the group and are in
> > need of help. We're looking for side window trim for our '63 2 door
> hard
> > top
> > 300. Its the trim that seals the top of the side windows to the top of
> the
> > roofline, but also seems to hold in the edge of the headliner. Also we
> need
> > the headliner bows, side mirror, and most all of the dash chrome.
> > HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> > veeech@xxxxxxx cwealth@xxxxxxx
> >
>
> John,
> Where are you located? Someone may be aware of a 'parts-car' where you
> can
> pick the parts yourself!
> Ron...
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:18:29 -0600
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ball/Trunion conversion
Hi Gang,
Indeed, really professional looking job on that conversion. However I might suggest that someone looking to do just that NOT cut up an original 300 drive shaft for this purpose as they are different and VERY hard to come by. Of the 4 letter cars I own, only 1 has the original shaft!
Question: Are the slip/joint assly and conversion flange off the shelf parts from somewhere? If so, where and how much?
Dave Schwandt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:19:29 EST
From: SADuggan@xxxxxxx
Subject: Changing sway bar bushings
Hi Everyone,
I see the subject of Swaybar has come up recently. I know that Addco has
a heavy duty swaybar for our cars, but I haven't tried one. They say it come
with all the parts to install it, just not the frame brackets. It's a 1" bar.
I wanted to see if anyone had a better way of changing the swaybar
bushings. Changing the bushings in the frame brackets I had a hard time. At
first I hope to be able to change them without undoing the weld, not
happening. I drilled out the weld on the press with a 1/2" drill bit, then
snaped out the bottom piece. I then pushed the new bushing up in there,
clamped it, and filled in the hole with weld. As it goes with these things,
the first one looks O.K., but the second one's much better.
I have still yet to do the bushings on the brackets that clamp to the
struts. Is there a better way to do this?
Thanks,
Sean Duggan
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:01:44 -0500
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: H seat covers / seat back panels
For some silly reason I kept my old 300H upholstery; including the front seat back panels. Could anyone out there use them?
I guess the vinyl/carpeted front seatback panels are about the only reusable pieces, as they're not (I believe) included in the club's replacement kits.
The seat upholstery itself would probably only be useful to someone patching holes or someone creating new covers themselves...'cause these are pretty dry & cracked.
I would guess that these seatbacks are (other than color) interchangeable on '60-63 (64?) front bucket seats.
Not sure its useful, but I figured I'd ask.
Thanks & have a great weekend.
Mike V
(GA)
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:06:15 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: F trunk lid
Hi All,
I've decided to part with my extra 300-F trunk lid. It's in very nice shape, with no rust in the bowl area. The only damage is underneath where someone in the past cut a small section out to access the drain tube to seal it up. I won't ship it, but will hole it for the spring meet if it's paid for in advance. The price is $125. I'll dig it out and take pictures of it for someone who is seriously interested.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:06:42 -0500
From: "Jim & Debbie Soucia" <jstruck@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Questions about Rhode Island meet?Don Verity
Don, I have tried to email you and can not get through. Can you email me?
jstruck@xxxxxxxxxx
Debbie
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:00:50 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: driveshaft conversion
Hi Dave,
Excellent suggestion that anyone modifying their driveshaft perform the work
on another, non-original driveshaft , and not on their original and correct
unit ! I have added a caption on the Web page with the pictures to that
effect. !
I am not sure what year 300's used special, thicker diameter driveshafts - I
know this is true of 60, 61 and 62 at least. But there are plenty of
Windsor, Newport and NewYorker parts cars in junkyards that a used
driveshaft can be obtained from ... play it safe, and chop up one of those
if chop you must !
John
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:14:44 -0800
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ball/Trunion conversion
Dave,
Please be more specific. How is a 300 drive shaft different from driveshafts used on sibliing cars?
Obtaining a replacement driveshaft and having it converted is certainly not as easy or inexpensive as converting the one in the car. More explanation please.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:17:17 +1300
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts ID
Can anybody ID these MoPar #'s for me please?
They are NOS rocker panels. # 2084947 and # 2084948. Can't find in my parts books.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:26:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "Rick Tibben"<tibbmopar@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '62 Chrysler 300 found
Greetings,
I thought someone might be interested in an original owner 1962 300 sport.
It is a 2-door hardtop, red with completely redone black interior. The paint
is original and shows wear in only two small places. It has always been garaged.
It has never been wrecked and all the trim is in excellent condition. The
engine is a 383 and was professionally rebuilt (the owner owned a auto repair
shop in town and knows the right people). The engine is extremely strong (I
imagine at 86 years old the owner is a little scared of how strong this car
runs). The VIN is 8223246757. The PNT code is PP1, the BDY code is 822 and
the Trim code is 454. You can contact Ray Bisho at (805) 925-6059. He is asking
$7,000. That may be a little much, but this is an exceptional (always in California)
car. I cannot take on any more cars personally, but hopefully someone out there
will give this vehicle a good home.
Now for my question, on my '61 300G we have done lots of wiring repair.
But one thing still stymies me. When you turn the key on, the oil pressure
and water temp. gauges move to a middle position. The amp and fuel side works
okay. All the guages are new (NOS) or professionally rebuilt. The water temp.
and oil pressure guages never move once they move to the middle position and
the vehicle is started and run. Is there a fix?
Thanks
Rick
______________________________________________________________________________
http://www.pronet.net
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:14:32 EST
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fwd: 300C
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:35:59 EST
From: moodus1@xxxxxxx
Subject: 62 300 Cvt.
I aahve decided to sell my 62 300 H and 62 300 Cvt. Both are California cars.
No pictures but will show them any time. Irv
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:37:39 EST
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
Subject: 57 C engine
I'm in the process of reassembling the engine for my 57 C. The cam
has been installed after regrind by iskenderian. Timing marks are lined up
and the timing of the cam checks ok with a degree wheel. When I install the
distributor driveshaft, the Chrysler manual says the slot in the shaft that
drives the distributor should be parallel to the centerline of the crank. I
cannot get the slot parallel. It is before the centerline as I install it,
and after the centerline if I move it 1 tooth. Has anyone had this problem?
If the distributor can be turned to compensate, which way should the slot
favor, slightly ahead of the centerline or after it? I appreciate any
help...thanks
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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