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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. "F" New motor with uneven compression
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
2. convertible thanks
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
3. Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: C300 carburetor #'s
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
5. Hard Starting Wedge!
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Heat riser ID.
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:50:01 EST
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
Subject: "F" New motor with uneven compression
Hi group,
I've been running my rebuilt motor on the assembled front sub-frame
since last June. It probably has 5-6 hours on it. It idles down nicely
and
runs smooth with the transmissoin in drive and the brake locked and I am
pleased with it except for what I perceived to be excessive blowby. I
decided to check the compression and found it to be generally low and very
uneven, running from 35 to 95. Adding oil to the cylinders brought all up
to
100 or so. (I'm at 6300' msl so all readings will be much lower than at
sea
level.) Then I did a leakdown test which showed the valves to be sealing
and
all leakage to be past the rings.
I assembled the pistons/rings just like I always have, checking end gap,
side
clearance, and staggered around the piston. I realize this engine is not
broken in and has never been run under a load but am concerned
nonetheless.
I've never run a new engine this way, just always put it in the car and
drove
it easily for the first 1000 and they always worked great. Being so
uneven
is what bothers me. What to do? I'm tempted to tear it down. Or am I
jumping the gun?
John
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:00:54 EST
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: convertible thanks
Just wanted to say Thanks to everyone for the overwhelming responses on
where
to find hydraulic parts for my 70 300 :)
Mike Laiserin
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:36:34 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
I would be interested to see how this conversion would be accomplished.
The
cast iron TF output shaft is not designed for a slip yolk. The emergency
brake drum bolts to it, and there is not enough spline length to do it. On
some models it also controls transmission end play, as it sandwiches the
output shaft bearing between the drum and a shoulder on the output shaft.
The drum has to remain, so that only leaves a custom slip yoke housing
bolted to the brake drum. I've never seen such an animal. I would like to
see a picture of such a thing if it exists.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Richard Osborne <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>;
<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 12:18 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] replacing trunion with u-joint
> Hi Richard, and all
>
> Everytime I talk to Frank, at "The Driveshaft Shop" in Bohemia, LI ( 1
800
> 564-2244)
> he also suggests replacing the trunion with a regular u-joint and
slip-yoke
> .
>
> "The Driveshaft Shop" is a large, well-established rebuilder of
driveshafts
> and CV-joints. They also do specialized driveshaft work, for racing,
custom
> fabrications, etc. ; when I keep blowing driveshafts in my '62 300, they
> invited me to bring it in, put it up on a lift, took measurements, and
> repaired (once again) my driveshaft without ever charging me a dime for
> their services. This is the car that I used to drag race.
>
> My feeling about this is that the front joint system ( trunion)
installed
in
> the cars was more than suitable for years and years of good service ; so
far
> I have resisted making such a change, especially on cars like my gold
300G
> that I prefer to keep as original as possible.
>
> As the parts to rebuild the trunions become harder and harder to find,
we
> might just have to consider making such a change. Of course, we could
keep
> our original driveshafts and bolt in a replacement slip-yoke style...
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:54:49 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: C300 carburetor #'s
If you look at the back side of your membership card you will find all
the
carb numbers from 55 to Hurst.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: John L. Chesnutt <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; PaddyCaddy . <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] C300 carburetor #'s
> The carburetor # 2317 appear to be correct as confirmed by John
Peabody's
> e-mail for both front and rear C300 - 1955.
>
> Go to web site: thecarburetorshop.com
>
> Click on passenger applications.
>
> This is the site given last year by one of our members.
>
>
>
> John & Arlys Chesnutt, Portland, OR.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 4:59 PM
> Subject: [Chrysler300] C300 carburetor #'s
>
>
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know what the carter numbers are supposed to be on the
> `1955
> > C300 ? And if they are the same front and rear - or not ?
> >
> > Thanks, Sean.
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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> >
> >
> >
> > To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> >
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> > Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
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>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:52:10 -0800
From: "Jennifer Allyn" <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hard Starting Wedge!
Suggestions are welcomed:
Only when cold is our '62 413 difficult to fire. We park this car
angled up in our driveway and lately it requires a lot to get it to
fire. We often roll down the driveway, so the car is flat in the street
in order for it to fire. Our theory is that the fuel pump can't pump
the fuel up to the carburetor when parked at the angle.
Do carburetor floats change their levels on their own? It seems as
though once the carburetor gets fuel the car fires no problem.
Thanks,
Matt Allyn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:27:54 -0800
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
You would have to use a companion flange yoke(I think that's what they are
called).It has two ears on one side to connect to the u-joint and a flange
on the other side with four holes to bolt to the brake drum studs.Once
that
is installed a new drive shaft with a slip yoke on one end would have to
be
fabricated.
Mike
At 11:36 AM 2/24/02 -0500, Don Verity wrote:
>I would be interested to see how this conversion would be accomplished.
The
>cast iron TF output shaft is not designed for a slip yolk.
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:34:31 +1300
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heat riser ID.
Can anyone please ID this for me? I have parts books to '65, just misses
out. So '66 and up. It is a heat riser kit, MoPar # 2594244.
Thanks,
Dave.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:19:30 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
You're right Mike. Imperials used this type of front joint with their 2 pc
driveshaft. They had the sliding yoke on the rear half. There should be
quite a few of those types around for those wanting to convert.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Don Verity <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>; Richard Osborne
<richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>;
<finsrus@xxxxxxxx>; <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; John Hertog
<crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] replacing trunion with u-joint
> You would have to use a companion flange yoke(I think that's what they
are
> called).It has two ears on one side to connect to the u-joint and a
flange
> on the other side with four holes to bolt to the brake drum studs.Once
that
> is installed a new drive shaft with a slip yoke on one end would have to
be
> fabricated.
>
> Mike
>
> At 11:36 AM 2/24/02 -0500, Don Verity wrote:
> >I would be interested to see how this conversion would be accomplished.
The
> >cast iron TF output shaft is not designed for a slip yolk.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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