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There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Rust, oh Rust!
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
2.
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Rust, oh Rust!
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Rust, oh Rust!
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. electronic speedometer
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: electronic speedometer
From: c300c@xxxxxxx
7. heater core blues
From: "Rick Ehrmann" <tc440@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. heat riser
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
9. heat riser - response
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 06:13:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rust, oh Rust!
Hello again all,
Thanks to all for the response on the heat riser and
paint codes. You guys are good!
Now for the $64,000 question:
I've scraped all the rust spots in the engine
compartment (not too bad overall), and now I want to
"pickle" the rust before I prime and paint it. Does
anyone have a good pickling solution- i.e. something
to arrest the oxidation process and turn it back to
metal - I can use before I prime.
One again, thanks so much. All hail the oracles!!
300ly,
Jonathan Sacks
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 8:14:29 -0700
From: " Jim McMullan" <macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
To kill rust you have to change iron oxide ( a active process )
to iron phosphate ( a inert process ) this is done by applying
phosphorate asid. The best product I have found is called OSPSO
found in most good hardware stores and paint shops.Jim
---
--- macthehammer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 09:40:49 -0700
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust, oh Rust!
Jonathan and list,
You have a couple of different approaches you can take.
One is to buy a product that is offered in several different forms
including brush on and spray on versions. It changes the rust into a
black inert finish that you paint over. Brand names I have seen over the
years include Noverox, Endrust, Corroless, and I think I saw the spray by
Rustoleum at Home Depot, not the paint but the rust conversion product.
The second way to go is to use an acid to remove the rust and etch the
metal. I believe the product is oxalic acid, and it is sold buy the
vendors that sell POR 15 paint, or other such vendor.
You might check with your local paint store and also this link:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
I have had good results with both approaches. Use the one that is most
appropriate to your needs and facilities.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 14:04:27 -0700
From: Mike <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust, oh Rust!
Duro "Extend" works quite well , it's also available in an aerosal can if
your'e lazy like me.Most automotive paint sales outfits will have similar
products available , under various brand names.
Mike
At 06:13 AM 8/25/01 -0700, Jonathan Sacks wrote:
>I've scraped all the rust spots in the engine
>compartment (not too bad overall), and now I want to
>"pickle" the rust before I prime and paint it. Does
>anyone have a good pickling solution- i.e. something
>to arrest the oxidation process and turn it back to
>metal - I can use before I prime.
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 23:21:09 +0200
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: electronic speedometer
Does someone know electronic speedometer like you find on PAW or
Summit catalogs (VDO, Intellitronix, Auto meter) ? I think i need
one of them because speedo of my 57 is "dead", it doesn't climb
above 10 mph (odometer is right): problem of turning magnet ?
Even if i have one in good conditions (i have two but two bad..)
it's a pain to remove the one on the car (i don't know if it's
possible w/o removing dash !)
I don't want to remove the control cable so how does an
electronic speedo sender is mounted ?
Thanks.
--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)
Imperial 57 Crown convertible
Buick 58 Roadmaster sedan
- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
- Chrysler Imperial France : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " :
http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 21:11:38 EDT
From: c300c@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: electronic speedometer
Electronic is VERY unreliable, as the magnets are taped to the driveshaft.
Best to remove your mechanical one and have a reliable Speedo shop repair
it.
I tried it and it doesn't work for long. 300'ly, Gary Hagy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 22:56:58 -0400
From: "Rick Ehrmann" <tc440@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: heater core blues
Hi everyone. My 68 300 convertible has begun raining coolant on my
passengers feet, so it's time to replace the heater core. This car has
factory a/c (no ATC), so it has the dual heater core housed together with
the a/c evaporator. According to Parts Voice, only Mitchell has NOS core
2837 419. Based on past experience, I passed. Then I tried aftermarket. I
got part numbers for ARS, Four Seasons, FEDCO, Murray, RADAC, and
Northern.
But each manufacturer said sorry no longer available. So I went to my
local
Mopar salvage yard (B&B, Upper Marlboro MD) and picked up the heater core
and a/c evaporator and a bunch of related parts for $35. I plan to have
the
heater and evaporator cores rebuilt at a radiator shop. What experience
have
any of you had with this? What advice can you give me? Thanks, Rick
Ehrmann
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 23:52:06 EDT
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
Subject: heat riser
Hi All Again,
I'll try this one again. Has anyone out there worked on a 413
exhaust/ram intake system?
I'm in the process of final assembly of my "F" engine and am a bit
puzzled
with the exhaust heat riser valve and thermostat. Can someone straighten
me
out?
Should the valve plate be larger than the bore ( only in the
direction
perpendicular to the shaft, obviously) so that it provides it's own stop
in
the closed position and can only rotate open either by exhaust pressure or
by
relief of spring tension when heated? Does the counterweight rest on it's
stop when the valve is open or closed?
I think I have all the parts for this thing but the valve plate I
received is smaller than the bore by about 1/8" all around.
Thanks,
John Roth
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 00:28:36 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: heat riser - response
Hi John Roth,
Looking at your 2nd e-mail on heat riser for 300F, it might appear you
did
not receive my response to your first query? Here it is again just in
case..
John Hertog
Oh, yeah, those things ARE confusing, even after having done a few ! No,
valve plate is smaller than bore.
When cold, the spring tension should make the asbestos cushion hit against
the stop. . Basically, if properly assembled, when tested in oven, they
should work the way intended . When on the car, both counterweights rotate
FORWARD .
Check out some pictures of 300F exh. man's reassembly at lower portion of
page, http://www.crossrams.com/van300f/seven.html
That should help you some. Especially
http://www.crossrams.com/van300f/0105exman6.JPG
John
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