Re: [FWDLK] Stuck Wheel Lug Nuts
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Re: [FWDLK] Stuck Wheel Lug Nuts



@Big Al, Liked "Back in the 60's we used to alternate right and left hand lugs to prevent theft."

On Sat, Sep 12, 2020 at 7:16 PM Larry Ashbaugh <000003991ab8a71e-dmarc-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I had a newer Mopar a while back that I had to burn off the stud to get the wheel off.  This one on the 57 has all 5 stuck and rounded.  They were undersized before rounding (apparently someone used non-standard lug nuts), and fully seized on the studs.  I could heat and try again, but without welding five new sockets on the five studs, or heating and breaking the five nuts, or maybe burning off the five studs, there is no easy answer.

I really appreciate all of the suggestions offered, but (and to complicate the situation, the car is outside, tight against the outside wall of my detached garage, with about 2-3 feet of space, and the welding tanks are in my attached garage) it seems that the best solution is to burn off the studs/nuts, or try to remove the wheel and brake drum as a whole. 

If, as I assume, the drum has the studs pressed into the drum itself, and I can get it to come free, I can take it off and take it to a local machine shop, or just replace the brake drum.

Am I missing something here?  Some of you guys have more experience on these than I do (I am a youngster at 71), and certainly more knowledge with this problem on Forward Look and other Mopars.... 

Since this is a D-500 car, I don't want to trash it before I get a chance to restore it.


Larry (Akron)


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Parker via MML <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Mopar Mailing List <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Bill Parker <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sat, Sep 12, 2020 1:50 pm
Subject: Re: Stuck Wheel Lug Nuts

It’s probably just me but I’ve never had any luck with any of the types of easy outs working on rusty frozen fasteners. Getting them cherry red usually works as someone already mentioned but I had one a little bit ago on an old aluminum mag that I guess had become one with the nut and it still wouldn’t move.

> On Sep 12, 2020, at 12:52 PM, Big Al via MML <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> This tool is better than an easy out for removing broken bolts right or
> left hand thread.
>
> https://www.cpooutlets.com/ridgid-35585-20-piece-screw-extractor-set/rgsn35585.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=rgsn35585&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5OmM34bk6wIVpBx9Ch0FFQovEAQYBCABEgJXp_D_BwE
>
> Lots of suppliers for left hand wheel lugs nuts and lug bolts. Back in the
> 60's we used to alternate right and left hand lugs to prevent theft.
>
> Al
>
>
>
>> On Sat, Sep 12, 2020 at 7:34 AM Ken Cullinan via MML <
>> mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> The nice thing about unsticking lug nuts vs. say an exhaust manifold bolt
>> is that the threads are “exposed”.
>> I have never run into a lug nut that heating the nut bright orange hasn’t
>> freed (focus the flame on the outside of the nut). Let it cool slowly
>> (don’t throw water on it and make the stud brittle) and try again.
>> I was going to say then use a large bolt extractor, but Left hand lugs
>> rules that out.  Chisel may work, especially an air chisel to shake things
>> up.  From there, I’d start whacking cheap, slightly undersized Chinese
>> sockets on the nut and back it off that way.
>> Ken C.
>>
>>
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