Re: [FWDLK] 1959 Coronet Brake Issue
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Re: [FWDLK] 1959 Coronet Brake Issue


When I bought my 56 Dodge way back in 1983, it had 43K miles and hadn't been driven much in 15 years.
I drove it home carefully, because the right front brake did what yours does. Above 10 mph it pulled slightly to the left, and then when it dropped under 10 mph it tried to rip the wheel out of my hands to the right. I found a right front wheel cylinder was leaking and had the shoes wet with brake fluid. At higher speeds it lubricated the shoes and pulled left, then at slow speeds it locked up and jerked right. My engine with automatic trans didn't stall and the brake released after a full stop. The only time I used the brake was for a stop sign, so I didn't try to accelerate after the wheel locked.

After it was home, it got new linings, hoses, turned drums, greased wheel bearings, and I honed out the wheel cylinders for new seals. The leaking wheel cylinder had been "fixed"  (only 1 on the car) previously by replacing the Mopar 2-piece piston with a non-anodized 1-piece piston of non-Mopar origin and a different length pushrod. I restored it back to original.

A collapsed brake hose will hold pressure, but it shouldn't apply more pressure than was applied by the brake pedal.

Mopar dual wheel cylinder front brakes have both shoes as a leading edge design. The wheel cylinder pushes out the front leading edge of the shoe and it rests against a hard stop at the trailing edge. The rotation and friction of the drum helps pull out the shoe and create more braking force. If the shoe sticks to the drum, then the shoe is jammed against the hard stop and wedges against the drum, locking everything up.

Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500


From: "Larry Ashbaugh" <000003991ab8a71e-dmarc-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: 02-May-2017 05:22:03 +0000
Subject: [FWDLK] 1959 Coronet Brake Issue

I was driving my 59 Coronet back from the mechanic's shop on Friday and got quite a surprise.  Although the mechanic had repaired some wiring, adjusted the emergency brake, replaced the master cylinder, and had checked the brake lines, cylinders and shoes, he had not driven the car on the road.
When I touched the brakes at a moderate pressure, it tried to make a 90 degree left turn, stalled the motor and hesitated to release the brake pressure until I added a great deal of gas pedal.  Since I was timing the lights for the 3-mile journey, after I got it re-started (with the help of another battery I brought as I assumed the one in the car would be low on charge), I made it almost home, but it happened again when I pulled into the driveway, jerking the steering wheel out of my hand. 
My diagnosis is that the brake hoses are collapsing (right front totally collapsed, left front collapsing when pressure is applied and sticking until overcome with acceleration).  That is what the mechanic echoed.
Does this sound reasonable?  I assume the rubber lines are original...  Any other thoughts?
Larry (Akron)


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