My thoughts...
1 - Seems like a good idea. What I'm wondering about is the idea of painting that area inside the wheel wells body color. Seems like they should be painted black so they sort of disappear from view when people look at the car. Even if it's not how the factory did it I would probably paint it black unless I was looking for complete originality.
2 - I don't think the bedliner would be very good at insulating. Probably better than nothing but if you really want protection I think you need to use a fiberglass mat, with or without the silver layer.
3 - I would not use any silicone. Every silicone I have used winds up shiney. I used some black silicone to do just what you are describing but for my hood and the first thing that catches your eye when you look under the hood is "what's that shiny stuff". Plus silicone doesn't take well to painting and maybe someday you'll want to paint it. The best stuff I found for sealing stuff and gluing things is urethane (home depot's website shows a wide variety of types and colors). And it can be painted if you want. Since you want to still let it move so it doesn't cause the panel to warp I would use the smallest bead I could get away with rather than using a bunch and doing "too good" a job of gluing things together.
From: "Rimington, Kenneth" <ken.rimington@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2015 9:23 AM
Subject: [FWDLK] Prep for painting
This is a bit of a narrative, sorry, but I have a few concerns with prepping my 56 Dodge Custom Royal for paint. The body is off frame now, so there is considerable latitude to address the issues. I am not doing a strict concurs restoration, but, standing
off, I do not want the enhancements to be apparent.
- Inner/outer fenders – in ’56 the inner and outer fenders are not lined. Modern cars have a poly liner to protect from road debris. I am thinking of rolling on a bedliner on the inside of the fenders on top of epoxy primer. This will allow for the undercoating
type of protection and provide a paintable surface so body color paint can be applied like was done at the factory. Is this a good idea? Any tips on getting the bedliner to go on approximately smooth.
- Hood – In ’56, for the most part, hoods were unlined allowing engine heat to cook the paint. In the 60’s, a fiber mat was added for insulation from engine heat. In the 70’s aluminum foil was added to reflect the heat in addition to the fiber mat. I would
like to add heat protection for the hood paint. Would the bedliner painted body color idea from the fenders work? Any ideas on making it look good?
- Trunk lid – the asphalt mat between the lid frame and skin on my car was deteriorated beyond repair, so I slid it out of the trunk lid in chunks. The trunk interior was painted Dodge dull gray, including the rotted mat. The mat allowed the skin and frame
to expand and contract without binding and provided anti-rattle protection. I am planning on painting the trunk lid body color (much better than dull gray J) and after painting, I plan on masking the frame ribs and skin and injecting
Black Max gasket silicone between the skin and frame and tooling it smooth. When the masking is removed, a smooth thin black line will be visible between the skin and frame. Will this cause binding/warping and will this provide anti-rattle protection?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for the help.
Kenneth G. Rimington
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