In my
opinion,
1. Racing
oil is fine for racing, where it gets changed every
500 miles or so. But it typically does not have the
additive package for daily street driving, where
blowby, moisture, and other contaminants need to be
controlled and dispursed for 2000 miles, or more.
2. Heavy oil
like a 20W-50 is too thick for most engines.
A. Oil that
heavy can put a lot of extra strain on the oil pump
shaft and cam gear, leading to possible failure.
B. Thicker
oil will flow less volume, reducing the heat removal
from the bearings.
C. Thicker
oil will also be harder to push through an oil
filter, the pressure drop may even allow the oil
bypass to open and allow dirty unfiltered oil to the
bearings.
D. Thicker
oil will be even slower reaching bearings and cams
at start up, especially after sitting for a long
period and the surfaces are dry.
E. I might
consider 20W-50 only if the engine was built with
larger bearing clearances (for more oil flow), and
if the environment is often over 90 degrees F, and
the engine is running at higher than normal
temperatures. It is specified for my air-cooled
motorcycle engine.
3. Minimum
oil thickness I recommend for our older cars is
10W-30. Anything thinner than 10W may squish out of
the bearing and allow metal-to-metal contact. I
typically use 10W-30 in the winter in my driver and
10W-40 for summer. Zero and 5W oils are designed for
modern motors with very tight bearing clearances and
pushing oil drag friction to low limits to improve
gas MPG.
4. Roller
lifters and roller cam followers in most every
engine built in the last 20 years do not require a
lot of ZDDP. Some ZDDP escapes past rings with the
oil and can reduce the effectiveness of catalytic
converters to only 100,000 miles. So the EPA
mandated lower ZDDP levels so converters will last
150,000 miles. They also benefit by killing off any
older driver cars with flat tappet cams prematurely.
5. I have
been using a product called ZDDP Plus. A small can
will boost the ZDDP level to the old normal levels
in a 5 quart oil change.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge
D500
On Sun, Aug
3, 2014 at 7:29 PM, Neil Vedder wrote:
Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for
me.
And, even,
Hemmings has gotten into the act, by selling
synthetic
(which is
really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor oil.
Whether ZDDP
is needed or not, in a lightly-used engine (like all
of ours
are)....it
is 'cheap' insurance and can not hurt anything, but
our
pocketbooks---check
Hemmings' 6-pack pricing (photo attachment).
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014
4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote:
We use Brad
Penn, made in the old Kendall refinery in
Bradford PA. Similar to Kendall GT-1 with
plenty of ZDDP. Dick
Sent: Sunday,
August 03, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject:
Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another
approach is to use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil;
it has more ZDDP.
However, a
friend showed me an article in the
Packard Pelican or whatever it is that
says VR-1 doesn’t have enough
detergent. I suspect it’s still more than oil 50
years ago.
--Roger van
Hoy
Sent: Sunday,
August 03, 2014 12:16 PM
Subject:
Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
I've found
two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in
the oil. One is to buy the Redline
Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz
of it with each oil change. The other,
even easier, is to buy a can of STP,
which has the right amount of ZDDP
in it, when you buy the oil and
filter and put the STP in along with
the new oil. The advantage of the
Redline is that it's actually a
little cheaper per dose and is easy
to poor. The STP is thick and hard
to pour. But the STP is available anywhere
so it's pretty convenient.
___________________________________
Sent: Sunday,
August 3, 2014 12:09 PM
Subject: Re:
[FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Thanks for
the input guys. I agree
about the oil. I've driven the car
a total of about 10
miles since buying it
from another list member
who also didn't drive it
during his ownership I believe. There is
a receipt from a
commercial garage showing
a ring and bearing job,
but the receipt has no
date on it. The inside of the engine
is very clean and the
oil isn't bad either so
since that minor overhaul it must have
been reasonably
maintained, but of course
with low ZDDP oil like
we are all stuck with in
the mainstream oils. I'm thinking of
using rotella once I'm
back up and running since
I don't have a converter
to get clogged up with
zinc.
Bill &
Kathi Parker, South
Central Indiana,
harboring of bunch of old
and newer Mopars
Oh, that
must be absolutely
true, because
nobody in the old car
hobby knows
about the effects of
NOT having ZDDP in
flat tappet
car engines.
And, of
course, the ruined cam
shafts render the
car and its engine
completely
unrepairable
and worthless.
The car
mechanics, in particular,
hate the effects
of having to work on these
damaged
engines.
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014
12:05 AM, Dave
Homstad wrote:
Bill,
You
might give some thought as to WHY
the cam has developed 3
bad lobes.
Here
is a good article about how
"OIL IS
KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!".
Personnally,
I think this is a plot by
the EPA to
get old cars off
the roads
quicker, by removing
the ZDDP
from our oils.
Dave
Homstad
56
Dodge D500
On
Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 6:43
PM, Bill
Parker wrote:
Hello all,
I tore
into the '60 Saratoga
engine
today, an RB 383, and as
I
suspected from the
symptoms,
it has a wiped camshaft.
One lobe
is just a little
nubbin',
and two others are
clearly
half what they should
be. Seems
like a simple cam
swap is in
order except of
course for
the small matter of
early B/RB
lifters and
pushrods
being different
dimensions
from the later ('66
and
later?) stuff. From
a previous
experience
with
putting a cam and lifter
kit into a
'65 engine, I think
I recall
that the late
lifters
are taller, and must use
the late
pushrods to
compensate.
I could have it backwards,
but in any
case, I think
the
solution to using a late
cam and
lifter kit is using
the late
pushrods too. I
have
several core 440 engines
and I'm
thinking, make a
cam
selection, buy the late
style
lifters with it, and use a
set of the
440 pushrods
(being
that both my '60 383 and
the 440's
are RB engines with
the same
deck
height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions?
This is not my hot rod and
I plan to
go with a pretty
mild cam.
Bill &
Kathi
Parker, South Central
Indiana,
harboring of bunch of old
and newer
Mopars
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