Here’s the Valvoline VR-1 FAQ page:
.13% zinc .12% phosphorus
It also specifically says less detergent. I don’t see where it says
how much less.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Richard is a real life engineer. He
can prove in the article that Mobil has the required amount of ZDDP. I'm not
sure how much is in "lots of ZDDP, for me". Do you have some data that shows how
much is in your "lots" of Valvoline?
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 10:05 PM, Neil
Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yeah, and I made the mistake of falling for his scare-story on the "necessity" of installing a dual pot master cylinder...instead of merely having an OEM single-pot be overhauled....in order to
prevent any leakages from it. Synthetic motor oil is no more "necessary" than wasting money on a dual pot M/C. The "boogieman's"
gonna catcha! Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 5:59 PM, Greg C wrote:
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Action On-line - Tech Questions
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Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for me. And, even, Hemmings has gotten into the act, by selling synthetic
(which is really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor oil. Whether ZDDP is needed or not, in a lightly-used
engine (like all of ours are)....it is 'cheap' insurance and can
not hurt anything, but our pocketbooks---check Hemmings' 6-pack
pricing (photo attachment). Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote:
We use Brad Penn, made in the old Kendall refinery in
Bradford PA. Similar to Kendall GT-1 with plenty of ZDDP. Dick
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another approach is to use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil; it has more
ZDDP.
However, a friend showed me an article in the Packard Pelican or whatever
it is that says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I suspect it’s still
more than oil 50 years ago.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
I've found two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy
the Redline Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz of it with each oil
change. The other, even easier, is to buy a can of STP, which has the
right amount of ZDDP in it, when you buy the oil and filter and put the STP in
along with the new oil. The advantage of the Redline is that it's
actually a little cheaper per dose and is easy to poor. The STP is thick
and hard to pour. But the STP is available anywhere so it's pretty
convenient.
Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the oil.
I've driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it from another
list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I believe.
There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a ring and bearing job,
but the receipt has no date on it. The inside of the engine is very
clean and the oil isn't bad either so since that minor overhaul it must have
been reasonably maintained, but of course with low ZDDP oil like we are all
stuck with in the mainstream oils. I'm thinking of using rotella once
I'm back up and running since I don't have a converter to get clogged up
with zinc.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of
old and newer Mopars
On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old car hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in flat
tappet car engines. And, of
course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and its engine completely unrepairable and worthless. The
car mechanics, in particular, hate the effects of having to work on
these damaged engines. Neil
Vedder
On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:
Bill,
You might give some
thought as to WHY the
cam has developed 3 bad lobes.
Here is a good article
about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!".
Personnally, I think
this is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off the roads quicker, by
removing the ZDDP from our oils.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at
6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote:
Hello all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB 383,
and as I suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped camshaft. One
lobe is just a little nubbin', and two others are clearly half what they
should be. Seems like a simple cam swap is in order except of
course for the small matter of early B/RB lifters and pushrods being
different dimensions from the later ('66 and later?) stuff. From a
previous experience with putting a cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine,
I think I recall that the late lifters are taller, and must use the late
pushrods to compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any
case, I think the solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using
the late pushrods too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm
thinking, make a cam selection, buy the late style lifters with it, and
use a set of the 440 pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and the 440's
are RB engines with the same deck height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not my hot rod and I plan
to go with a pretty mild cam.
Bill & Kathi
Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer
Mopars
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