I guess in some cases I am an "Old School" guy. I always have started the
bleeding process by removing the wheels, and leaving the car on jack stands
or a low rise lift. Then, remove the master cylinder cover, and fill it with
fluid,but don't replace the cover. Then go to each wheel and just open the
bleeder screws. it was always best to the connect a small diameter rubber or
plastic hose to the bleeder, and direct it into a small recovery tank or can
of some sort. Then just walk away for a time, being sure that the master
cylinder doesn't run out of fluid. When the fluid starts to drip from the
wheel cylinders, shut off each one. In most cases, within a ½ hour, the air
in the lines is purged, and the bleeding is done, and the pedal is solid.
Top off the master, recover it, and you're done.
Mike Higgins
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Davids
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 8:07 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [FWDLK] OT: How to Bleed Dual Master Cylinder Cars
I need help and I'm hoping someone on the list knows the trick or correct
procedure for this.
I just replaced the dual master cylinder on my 69 Roadrunner. This must be
my youngest Mopar, as all the rest have single master brake cylinders.
The problem is that I can't get fluid to flow to the rear wheel cylinders.
The fronts, which happen to be factory disks, bleed just fine. I believe
this problem is related to the shuttle valve in the brake distribution
block. In addition to proportioning front/rear brake bias, the shuttle valve
must think there's a leak in the rear brakes, and so it shuts off flow to
those guys.
But how do you overcome this safety feature when you're doing a wholesale
brake line replacement? By definition, there's no fluid in the lines to
start with.
Perhaps this is detailed in the service manual, of which I do not have a
copy.
Who has done this before and knows how to make this work?
Dan Davids
Seattle
P.S. I like working on fin cars a whole lot more!
P.P.S. Yes, we bench bled the new unit before installation.
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