The orange I put in my Coronet immediately gave me problems (street driving), intermittently going dead at the most inopportune times. My local Dodge dealer, where I purchased the whole set up was difficult in getting help or replacement out of, and I ultimately got a replacement via NAPA that has worked without trouble for five years.
B.
From: "Bill Amberger" <Magnumguy@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 6:03:10 AM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
Gary, not that I'm any expert on these, but I'm
99% sure the orange are street, the have chrome and gold for racing. (if we're
referring to the elect. ign. boxes from Chrysler
Bill.....
"The MagnumGuy"
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 2:46
AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO
SOLDERING
I just want to let everybody know that uses or
is using the Orange box with there Cars. The Orange Box is not to
be used for street use. It is for Quarter Mile use only. After I
had my second one fail, I called Mopars Tech line. They
are the ones who told me it was never intended for street use. That’s
why they get so hot. They are for short bursts of power.
Gary Barker
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
Over
the years I have heard a lot of people rubbish Pertronix electronic ignition
systems because they “fail”, and then they go on to talk about the electronic
box failing, which Pertronix does not have.
I
would be interested to hear stories from some people who have had actual
Pertronix branded units fail, from their own experience and not some
folk story heard third hand.
From
what I have heard, the “separate box” type electronic ignition units do seem
to be problematic, probably chinese made, but no actual Pertronix branded
units failing, yet they all get tarred with the same
brush.
I
am sure that some must fail, there must be millions of them out there and
nothing is perfect, but I would like to hear how many Pertronix units here
have failed specifically.
Just
curious.
Glenn.
Sent:
Friday, August 19, 2011 7:20 PM
Subject: Re:
[FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
I
learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night
in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the
Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with
the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo
my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the
Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.
In a
message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I
carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil
Vedder
AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not
trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
> matter
how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
>
electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a
complete points
> set up with you for when it fails.
>
Adam Lindenbaum
>
>
> In a message dated
8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that Pertronix
electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for
shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor,
and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install
into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or,
the dualie can be used to replace the entire
> single-point
dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed to
accommodate the Pertronix "under-
> cap" (hidden-)
electronic ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a
myriad of 'new' issues about the
> performance of your existing
dissie and/or a replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any
replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length
equal to your existing dissie.
>
> There are two different
shaft lengths on the FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the
year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie FWDLK-era C&P
will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a
Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT
answer about installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly,
hot-rodding your
> car's distributor's performance; but, that's
a completely
> different, additional very-long
story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a
Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still
installed,
> but, merely not connected to the
distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT
improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded
dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark'
consistent,
> hot, and reliable.
>
> Now I know why
Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix might be installed
in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil
Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad
wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>>
>>
Some things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that
can handle several amps of current.
>> It also should be a
"wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
>> maximum
current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the ignition
coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high
temperature solder.
>> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast
resistor for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to
the old style except the terminals are
>>
different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13
(looks like the
>> original except for the terminals, from
Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix,
you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their
coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>>
Dave Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu,
Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
Hello Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58
ballast resister (very rare as we all
>>>
know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is
shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for
a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between
the two terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too
small--they are not interested.
>>> but it is somewhat
intricate since you almost have to solder it
blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you
do this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED
ECKERSON
>>> LI
NY
>>>
>>>
*************************************************************
>>>
>>>
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
to
>>>
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>>>
>>
*************************************************************
>>
>>
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
to
>>
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>>
>>
>
>
*************************************************************
>
>
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
to
>
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
>
>
>
*************************************************************
To
unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
No
virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.901 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3845 - Release Date: 08/19/11
14:34:00
*************************************************************
To
unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network