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unless there is an extreme dwell difference with pertronix, or timing advancement was enstated during installation, it should have no bearing on running temp...
however as a side note, my 57 premier conv't runs about 10 degrees warmer than my 57 capri coupe, the vert has pertronix, coupe still points... but i never drove the vert with points as a basis, thats the only car i've owned with pertronix. i have, however installed at least 10 conversions for customers, with no reports of running temp changes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Hilbert <ron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Fri, Aug 19, 2011 8:06 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
Has anyone had an issue after installing a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion with the engine running hotter?
Have a Great Day!
Ron Hilbert
57 Plymouth
I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.
I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil Vedder
AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
> matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
> electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points
> set up with you for when it fails.
> Adam Lindenbaum
>
>
> In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace the entire
> single-point dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix "under-
> cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about the
> performance of your existing dissie and/or a replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length equal to your existing dissie.
>
> There are two different shaft lengths on the FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
> car's distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
> different, additional very-long story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
> but, merely not connected to the distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
> hot, and reliable.
>
> Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix might be installed in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>>
>> Some things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current.
>> It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
>> maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder.
>> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are
>> different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
>> original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>> Dave Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hello Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all
>>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between the two terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too small--they are not interested.
>>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to solder it blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED ECKERSON
>>> LI NY
>>>
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