|
It sounds like a timing or advance issue, did you check both? Are you using
the same distributor that the car came with? I once bought an aftermarket
electronic distributor for a B-Motor that when installed and timed at idle
was fine but it advanced so far at higher RPMs that the engine was firing
into the next cylinder. I ended up dissecting another distributor for the
springs and disconnecting the vacuum advance so it would work.
Adam Lindenbaum
In a message dated 8/19/2011 8:06:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Has
anyone had an issue after installing a Pertronix
electronic ignition conversion with the engine running hotter?
Have
a Great Day!
Ron
Hilbert
57
Plymouth
From: Forward Look
Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Adam Lindenbaum
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 4:21
PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK]
WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
I
learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night
in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the
Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with
the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo
my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the
Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.
In a
message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I
carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil
Vedder
AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not
trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
> matter
how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
>
electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a
complete points
> set up with you for when it fails.
>
Adam Lindenbaum
>
>
> In a message dated
8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that Pertronix
electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for
shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor,
and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install
into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or,
the dualie can be used to replace the entire
> single-point
dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed to
accommodate the Pertronix "under-
> cap" (hidden-)
electronic ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a
myriad of 'new' issues about the
> performance of your existing
dissie and/or a replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any
replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length
equal to your existing dissie.
>
> There are two different
shaft lengths on the FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the
year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie FWDLK-era C&P
will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a
Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT
answer about installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly,
hot-rodding your
> car's distributor's performance; but, that's
a completely
> different, additional very-long
story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a
Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still
installed,
> but, merely not connected to the
distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT
improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded
dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark'
consistent,
> hot, and reliable.
>
> Now I know why
Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix might be installed
in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil
Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad
wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>>
>>
Some things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that
can handle several amps of current.
>> It also should be a
"wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
>> maximum
current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the ignition
coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high
temperature solder.
>> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast
resistor for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to
the old style except the terminals are
>>
different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13
(looks like the
>> original except for the terminals, from
Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix,
you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their
coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>>
Dave Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu,
Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
Hello Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58
ballast resister (very rare as we all
>>>
know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is
shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for
a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between
the two terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too
small--they are not interested.
>>> but it is somewhat
intricate since you almost have to solder it
blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you
do this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED
ECKERSON
>>> LI
NY
>>>
>>>
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>>
>
>
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