Karl,
In the scenario I described, you are not actually swapping the ring gear,
you are swapping the non sure grip cage for the sure grip cage. The ring
gear and the pinion gear, which are what must remain matched, stay
together in the same unit.
To do this the cage and ring gear are remove. The ring gear is
uninstalled and then reinstalled to the sure grip cage and then that
assembly is reinstalled back into the original third member. All
that has been changed is what the ring gear is bolted to. I only
suggested changing the side bearings because it is relatively easy to do
while the unit is apart. The parts that require matching are the
hypoid gear surfaces between the pinion gear and the ring gear. The
specialized knowledge and tools are required to set the pinion depth so
the gear surfaces slide properly. If the gears you want to use are
working properly, then the pinion doesn't have to be disturbed so no
special tools or techniques needed there, only a dial indicator to set
backlash.
In all honesty it is not a very difficult job from a technical
standpoint, but if you are unsure, it might be more prudent to let your
mechanic do it the first time.
Here is a pic of the carrier or cage.
http://ronsmachiningservice.com/store/images/P/auburn%20posi-23.JPG
here is a pic of the ring and pinion.
http://ausmorperformance.com/images/new%20r&p%20(Small).jpg
Here is a pic of the ring gear mounted on the cage (a different brand of
differential but the same principal).
http://media.photobucket.com/image/8.75%20differential/bobc0/webpageimages/Diff5.jpg
Finally here is almost exactly what your 741 looks like inside. The
backlash is set using the slotted adjusting nuts on each side to slide
the ring gear left or right before the nuts are locked.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-1-Ton-Eaton-Chevy-Truck-Differential-third-member-/330369599727
Good Luck,
Bill Huff
At 7/11/201011:47 PM, Karl Peterson wrote:
I don't mean to
question your judgment, as I am definitely the "dummie"
here with all this rear end stuff....but from what I've been told by
others so far, it is NOT a good idea to be swapping the ring gear by
itself.....
....IOW, it is said that the ring and pinion should always be kept as a
"matched set".
If I can get by with just swapping out the ring gear, I'll have my
mechanic get on that right away.
Karl
--- On Mon, 7/12/10, William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
- From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Swapping rear end gears
- To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 1:36 AM
- The way I read the message all he needs to do is change the ring gear
over to the sure grip and install it back into the existing pumpkin with
new side bearings. If the rear end was good to begin with, then no
other adjustments are needed except backlash. I would replace the
pinion seal as well. I have done this operation several times in
the past with good results and no special tools needed other than a dial
indicator.
- Bill Huff
- At 7/11/201007:30 PM, Ray Jones wrote:
- Bottom line is that you need special tools, dial indicators, and much
experiance to get it right. NOT for the novice, you can do it, but it
will soon fail. Pay the man to do it right. Find a good rearend
man, it's worht it.
- Ray
- On Jul 11, 2010, Karl Peterson <tuffshift@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
- Of course, that would most likely be the "easiest" thing to
do....but according to this website
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/chrysler_8_34_rearends.htm it is
apparently possible to swap out just the ring and pinion, thereby
retaining the capability of the sure-grip rear end.
-
- Now having read this myself, I am wondering as to the actual
feasibility of making this switch....assuming (hate that word, :), that I
can locate a mechanic knowledgeable in such a swap that can deal with all
the various settings which need to be done.....
-
- ....since I KNOW the sure-grip is in good functioning condition, and
am not all that sure of the non-sure grip carrier assy. I mean, it
certainly LOOKS ok and there are no obvious chipped teeth on any of the
gears......it's just that one never knows until it's in place.
-
- Karl
- --- On Tue, 7/6/10, paul
<
paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
- From: paul
<
paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >
- Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Swapping rear end gears
- To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 1:10 AM
- On 7/4/2010 6:10 PM, Karl Peterson wrote:
- > Is swapping out the 3.55 ring and pinion from a sure-grip 741
carrier,
- > with a 2.94 ring and pinion from a NON sure-grip 741 carrier,
both late
- > 60's vintage, something a mechanically inclined
"novice" like myself
- > should attempt?......or something better left to the
"experts"?
- > Karl P.
- You will DO much better swapping the whole center section I
believe!
- -- Paul Holmgren
- Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy
- Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage 1
- Hoosier Corps L#6
- *************************************************************
- To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
-
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
-
- *************************************************************
- To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
-
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
-
*************************************************************
- To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please
go to
-
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook A=1
-
*************************************************************
- To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please
go to
-
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook A=1
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
|
|