There are 16 messages totalling 1401 lines in this issue.
Topics of the day:
1. FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes (2)
2. good news.
3. <No subject given> (3)
4. brake drum puller
5. '56 Plymouth Brakes (2)
6. 56 Plymouth door lock cylinder and keys
7. 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN # (4)
8. Spark Plug Holders ? (2)
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 23:48:02 -0800
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a lot
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would get me
cleaner text & messages?
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler 300
was that I had to buy a special hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
drums. See Item 9 at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html It works
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded loosely to the axle end as
the drum can come off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets loose.
I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the
drums would not fit
over them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the drums
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums. Next
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time. I had my mechanic
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always seems
that it would be best to machine all the grooves and scratches out of the
drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pass
to knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine. The
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on some
measurements they took. It was not a wear issue, more like a warpage issue.
I got their last two brake shoe cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts
that
threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what the
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 05:42:14 -0800
From: David Remaley <
david.remaley@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: good news.
--0-845740641-1265377334=:93354
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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First off, I want to thank everyone on here for all of their help with me f=
ind where to get my brake shoes for me 1956 Belvedere.=A0 I wanted to post =
on here that after a two years of waiting, I am finally putting on my new t=
ires and other things on my pride and joy.=A0 It has been a long time comin=
g.=A0 I have had it safely kept stored in my garage and it has been driving=
me crazy not being able to have her
out on the road.=A0 Well, this year sh=
e will be making her debut in the local car shows.=A0 My car is a work in p=
rogress but I have no problem with that.=A0 I will be keeping you all updat=
ed with my progress and will be posting pictures as soon as I get them take=
n.=0A=0ADave=0A1956 Plymouth=A0Belvedere.=0APa=0A=0A=0A
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<html><head><style type=3D"text/css"><!-- DIV {margin:0px;} --></style></he=
ad><body><div style=3D"font-family:times new
roman, new york, times, serif;=
font-size:12pt"><DIV>First off, I want to thank everyone on here for all of=
their help with me find where to get my brake shoes for me 1956 Belvedere.=
I wanted to post on here that after a two years of waiting, I am fin=
ally putting on my new tires and other things on my pride and joy. It=
has been a long time coming. I have had it safely kept stored in my =
garage and it has been driving me crazy not being able to have her out on t=
he road. Well, this year she will be making her debut in the local ca=
r shows. My car is a work in progress but I have no problem with that=
. I will be keeping you all updated with my progress and will be post=
ing pictures as soon as I get them taken.</DIV>=0A<DIV> </DIV>=0A<DIV>=
Dave</DIV>=0A<DIV>1956
Plymouth Belvedere.</DIV>=0A<DIV>Pa</DIV><!-- c=
g10.c2.mail.ac4.yahoo.com compressed/chunked Fri Jan 22 13:25:56 PST 2010 -=
-></div><br>=0A=0A </body></html>
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:23:44 -0500
From: C B Rollins <
canartgrp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: <No subject given>
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:23:52 -0500
From: C B Rollins <
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Subject: <No subject given>
http://mircalefs.webs.com?2o2vii8 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 07:20:33 -0800
From: Jan & Roger van Hoy <
vanhilla@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake drum puller
Those brake drum pullers are fantastic! Have had one for years, last time
used was a couple years ago in a wrecking yard on a '55 Plymouth. The yard
guy insisted on doing the work, he too was amazed at how easily it pops the
drum off the tapered
axle.
I can vouch for the idea that right-hand nuts on the left side do work
loose. Had it happen when towing a '47 Cadillac back in '73. The lug nuts
were sitting along the road at about 20' apart, the tire and wheel bounced
considerably further.
--Roger van Hoy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Barber" <
C300@xxxxxxx>
To: <
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
> These daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a lot
> of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would get
>
me
> cleaner text & messages?
>
> Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler
> 300
> was that I had to buy a special hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
> drums. See Item 9 at:
>
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html It works
> great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded loosely to the axle end
> as
> the drum can come off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets
> loose.
> I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
> over them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the
> drums
> to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums.
> Next
> time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time. I
had my
> mechanic
> give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
> much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always seems
> that it would be best to machine all the grooves and scratches out of the
> drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light
> pass
> to knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine.
> The
> reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on some
> measurements they took. It was not a wear issue, more like a warpage
> issue.
> I got their last two brake shoe cores.
>
> Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that
> threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle
> flange
> to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what
> the
> little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side
> lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the
> spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never
> did
> buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the
> brake
> drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
>
> Rich Barber
> Brentwood, CA
> 1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)
>
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
>
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 17:33:03 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject: Re: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth
Brakes
------=_Part_5905_1556643729.1265391183330
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
----- Original Message -----
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what the
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)
*************************************************************
This may have been true with "Chrysler" badged cars, but I have owned more than one 58 Plymouth with lug bolt drums.
Not sure when the practice was finally given up, but 58 is the last year I have had experience with.
B.
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<html><head><style type=3D'text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><=
div style=3D'font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color:
#000000'><br>-----=
Original Message -----<br><br>Historical note: 1955 was the last yea=
r that Chrysler used lug bolts that<br>threaded into the brake drums.  =
;There are locating pins on each axle flange<br>to help align the wheel bef=
ore threading in the lug bolts. That's what the<br>little holes betwe=
en the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side<br>lugs were =
left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the<br>spinning and =
vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never did<br>buy =
that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the bra=
ke<br>drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the dru=
m.<br><br>Rich Barber<br>Brentwood, CA<br>1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck =
of a lot better than it
stops)<br> <br><br>***************************=
**********************************<br><br> This may have been true wi=
th "Chrysler" badged cars, but I have owned more than one 58 Plymouth with =
lug bolt drums. <br><br>Not sure when the practice was finally given =
up, but 58 is the last year I have had experience with.<br><br> B.<br=
></div></body></html>
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------=_Part_5905_1556643729.1265391183330--
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 09:49:45 -0800
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
Subject: '56 Plymouth Brakes
I'm advised that Plymouths as late as 1959 still had lug bolts and that it
was not unknown for RH thread lug nuts and bolts on the driver's side to
come undone. I worked on a lot of cars in the '50's and don't recall ever
encountering any loose fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've slept
since
then.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Barber [mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion List'
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a lot
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would get me
cleaner text & messages?
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler 300
was that I had to buy a special hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
drums. See Item 9 at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html It works
great. Remember to
leave the axle nut threaded loosely to the axle end as
the drum can come off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets loose.
I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
over them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the drums
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums. Next
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time. I had my mechanic
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always seems
that it would be best to machine all the grooves and scratches out of the
drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pass
to knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine. The
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on some
measurements they
took. It was not a wear issue, more like a warpage issue.
I got their last two brake shoe cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flange
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what the
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never did
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the brake
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:02:16 -0800
From: Allen Faltus <
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 56 Plymouth door lock cylinder and keys
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Does anyone out there have a set, both front doors, of door lock =
cylinder and keys for a 56 Plymouth.
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxxAllen
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Does anyone out there have a set, both
=
front doors,=20
of door lock cylinder and keys for a 56 Plymouth. <A=20
href="" href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx">afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx">
afaltus@xxxxxxxxxx</A></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Allen</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:19:47 -0800
From: Brian Shaputis <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
--0-12929987-1265401187=:59400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin
heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!
Brian
Rochester, WA
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<html><head><style type="text/css"><!-- DIV {margin:0px;} --></style></head><body><div style="font-family:bookman old style,new york,times,serif;font-size:14pt;color:#000000;"><div>Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in
advance!<br><br>Brian<br>Rochester, WA<br></div>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 12:42:22 -0800
From: RICHARD HALL <
rahall01@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: <No subject given>
--0-1601006658-1265402542=:68238
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Hi group,
=A0
Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into =
on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ?=A0 Thanks..
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<table cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" border=3D"0" ><tr><td valign=3D"=
top" style=3D"font: inherit;"><DIV>Hi group,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit =
into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..</DIV></td=
></tr></table>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 16:56:52 -0500
From: William Huff <
whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
--=====================_63524656==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Driver's door jamb?
Bill Huff
At 2/5/201003:19 PM, Brian Shaputis wrote:
>Can someone help me
with this one please...? Where is the VIN
>located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads
>know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!
>
>Brian
>Rochester, WA
>
>*************************************************************
>
>To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
><
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http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook >A=1
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Driver's door jamb?<br><br>
Bill Huff<br><br>
<br>
At 2/5/201003:19 PM, Brian Shaputis wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Can someone help me with this
one please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto
Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to this
one... Thanks in advance!<br><br>
Brian<br>
Rochester, WA<br><br>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 16:56:42 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: '56 Plymouth Brakes
----------MB_8CC74C53CAADF7E_63C8_5974_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
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plymouths got their studs in 60, still maintained the left/right thread=
feature- the purpose of the opposing thread were to make loosening by cen=
tripital force inveitable- the fwd rotation of the wheel would "tighten"=
the lugnut or bolt in operation, by properties of physics. and since noo=
ne has really lost a wheel on one side of
the car- moreso that the other=
now that most cars all use right-hand threaded lugnuts/studs [foreign] th=
e theory of accidently putting left on right an d right on left hubs, gets=
blown out of the water.
=20
all, not some, plymouths had lug bolts to the end of 1959, exc for those=
perhaps with upgraded brakes someone swapped off the mid-sized didge chas=
sis [all 57-9 dodges, firesweeps, windsors 122" wb]
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 9:49 am
Subject: [FWDLK] '56 Plymouth Brakes
I'm advised that Plymouths as late as 1959 still had lug bolts and that
it
was not unknown for RH thread lug nuts and bolts on the driver's side to
come undone. I worked on a lot of cars in the '50's and don't recall ever
encountering any loose fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've slept
since then.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Barber [mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48 PM
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion List'
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes
These daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a lot
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would get=
me
cleaner text & messages?
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler 30=
0
was that I had to buy a special
hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear
drums. See Item 9 at:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html It works
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded loosely to the axle end=
as
the drum can come off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets loos=
e.
I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit
over them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the dru=
ms
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums. Nex=
t
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time. I had my mechani=
c
give a light cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as
much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always seems
that it would be best to machine all
the grooves and scratches out of the
drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pa=
ss
to knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine. Th=
e
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on some
measurements they took. It was not a wear issue, more like a warpage issu=
e.
I got their last two brake shoe cores.
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that
threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flang=
e
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug bolts. That's what th=
e
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never di=
d
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler
began pressing the lug bolts into the bra=
ke
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)
=20
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*************************************************************
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Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">plymout=
hs got their studs in 60, still maintained the left/right thread feature-=
the purpose of the opposing thread were to make loosening by centripital=
force inveitable- the fwd rotation of the wheel would "tighten" the lugnu=
t or bolt in operation, by properties of physics. and since noone ha=
s really lost a wheel on one side of the car- moreso that the other now th=
at most cars all use right-hand threaded lugnuts/studs [foreign] the theor=
y of accidently putting left on right an d right on left hubs, gets blown=
out of the water.</font></font><br>
</div>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br>
all, not
some, plymouths had lug bolts to the end of 1959, exc for those=
perhaps with upgraded brakes someone swapped off the mid-sized didge chas=
sis [all 57-9 dodges, firesweeps, windsors 122" wb]<br>
</font></font></div>
<div style=3D"clear: both;"></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Richard Barber <
C300@xxxxxxx><br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 9:49 am<br>
Subject: [FWDLK] '56 Plymouth
Brakes<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_0_79d7fd05-4bf5-46b9-b5ce-cca4c060bad9" style=3D"mar=
gin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<pre style=3D"font-size: 9pt;"><tt>I'm advised that Plymouths as late as=
1959 still had lug bolts and that it<br>
was not unknown for RH thread lug nuts and bolts on the driver's side to<b=
r>
come undone. I worked on a lot of cars in the '50's and don't recall ever=
<br>
encountering any loose fasteners on either side of a car. But, I've slept=
<br>
since then.<br>
<br>
Rich Barber<br>
Brentwood, CA<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Richard Barber [<a href=""
href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=C300@xxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:C300@xxxxxxx">C300@xxxxxxx?">mailto:
C300@xxxxxxx=
</a>] <br>
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 11:48 PM<br>
To: 'Forward Look Mopar Discussion List'<br>
Subject: FORWARDLOOK Digest '56 Plymouth Brakes<br>
<br>
These daily digests come to me in very difficult to read format with a lot=
<br>
of garbage text. Is that normal? Are there some options that would get=
me<br>
cleaner text & messages?<br>
<br>
Regarding the Plymouth brake shoes: My experience with my '55 Chrysler 30=
0<br>
was that I had to buy a special hell-for-stout drum puller for the rear<br=
>
drums. See Item 9 at:<br>
<a href=""
href="http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html" target=_blank>http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html" targ=
et=3D"_blank">
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html</a=
> It works<br>
great. Remember to leave the axle nut threaded loosely to the axle end=
as<br>
the drum can come off the tapered axle like a cannonball when it lets loos=
e.<br>
I had the shoes relined at a Sacramento shop, but the drums would not fit<=
br>
over them, even in the minimal position. I returned the shoes and the dru=
ms<br>
to them and they "arc ground" the shoes to fit the ID's of the drums. Nex=
t<br>
time, I'll remember to take the drums in the first time. I had my mechani=
c<br>
give a light
cleanup pass on the brake drum machine so as to preserve as<b=
r>
much iron in the drums as possible and that worked fine. It always seems<=
br>
that it would be best to machine all the grooves and scratches out of the<=
br>
drum ID's, but these drums are getting kind of hard to find and a light pa=
ss<br>
to knock down the high spots and restore roundness may work just fine. Th=
e<br>
reline shop also refused to reline a couple of the shoes based on some<br>
measurements they took. It was not a wear issue, more like a warpage issu=
e.<br>
I got their last two brake shoe cores.<br>
<br>
Historical note: 1955 was the last year that Chrysler used lug bolts that=
<br>
threaded into the brake drums. There are locating pins on each axle flang=
e<br>
to help align the wheel before threading in the lug
bolts. That's what th=
e<br>
little holes between the larger lug bolt holes are for. The driver's side=
<br>
lugs were left-hand thread- apparently to reduce the tendency of the<br>
spinning and vibrating wheel to loosen the threaded fasteners. I never di=
d<br>
buy that one. In 1956, Chrysler began pressing the lug bolts into the bra=
ke<br>
drums (axle flanges?) and using lug nuts to hold the wheel to the drum.<br=
>
<br>
Rich Barber<br>
Brentwood, CA<br>
1955 Chrysler C-300 (Goes a heck of a lot better than it stops)<br>
<br>
<br>
*************************************************************<br>
<br>
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to<br>
<a href="" href="http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D="
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1" target=3D"_blank">
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</tt></pre>
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----------MB_8CC74C53CAADF7E_63C8_5974_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com--
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:15:32 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject: Re: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
------=_Part_13915_346294826.1265411732822
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges ?
Or am I just thinking 58 ???
B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Shaputis" <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!
Brian
Rochester, WA
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to
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*************************************************************
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<html><head><style type='text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div style='font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000'> Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges ?<br><br> Or am I just thinking 58 ???<br><br> B.<br><br><br>----- Original Message -----<br>From: "Brian Shaputis" <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx><br>To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific<br>Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #<br><br><style><!-- DIV {margin:0px;} --></style><div style="font-family: bookman old style,new york,times,serif; font-size: 14pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><div>Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!<br><br>Brian<br>Rochester, WA<br></div>
<!-- cg7.c4.mail.gq1.yahoo.com compressed/chunked Fri Jan 22 12:38:51 PST 2010
-->
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------=_Part_13915_346294826.1265411732822--
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:21:22 +0000
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxSubject: Spark Plug Holders
?
------=_Part_14026_2089560067.1265412082941
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
----- Original Message -----
Hi group,
Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..
*************************************
Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the dipped rubber coating at the separations, or the free floating plastic separators ?
The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets (they might still?) The steel dudes often times lose the rubber coating, but this can
easily be replicated with the insulating "tool dip" for plier handles, etc.
Or are you thinking of something completely different ?
B.
*************************************************************
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subscription options, please go to
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Content-Type: text/html; charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<html><head><style type='text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div style='font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000'><br>----- Original Message -----<br><br><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; font-size: inherit; line-height: inherit; font-size-adjust: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; -x-system-font: none;" valign="top"><div>Hi group,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Does anyone
repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..<br><br> *************************************<br><br> Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the dipped rubber coating at the separations, or the free floating plastic separators ?<br><br> The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets (they might still?) The steel dudes often times lose the rubber coating, but this can<br>easily be replicated with the insulating "tool dip" for plier handles, etc.<br><br> Or are you thinking of something completely different ?<br><br> B.<br><br><br></div></td></tr></tbody></table>
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size="2"></font></p><br></div></body></html>
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------=_Part_14026_2089560067.1265412082941--
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 21:22:42 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
----------MB_8CC74EA652F2493_63C8_CE14_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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=20
it should be in the door jamb- its basically a newport body- converted to=
a desoto... my 61 newport convt has it in the jamb, so did a 60 saratoga=
and 62 custom880 convt i had.... i have seen [over the past, almost 100=
fwdlk bodies i've had] some literally fall off- the 2 tack welds attachin=
g the plates had to burn through the orig layer of paint- the thin layer=
of rust the facilitates between the layers of metal [mild>stainless] pops=
the tacks... happens on 55-57 GMs too...
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxTo:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:15 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges ?
Or am I just thinking 58 ???
B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Shaputis" <
brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent: Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00
US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #
Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN located at=
on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads know the answer=
to this one... Thanks in advance!
Brian
Rochester, WA
=20
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,please go to=20
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1=20*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,please go to=20
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1=20=20
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">it shou=
ld be in the door jamb- its basically a newport body- converted to a desot=
o... my 61 newport convt has it in the jamb, so did a 60 saratoga and 62=
custom880 convt i had.... i have
seen [over the past, almost 100 fw=
dlk bodies i've had] some literally fall off- the 2 tack welds attaching=
the plates had to burn through the orig layer of paint- the thin layer of=
rust the facilitates between the layers of metal [mild>stainless] pops=
the tacks... happens on 55-57 GMs too...</font></font><br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear: both;"></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original Message-----<br>
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx<br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:15 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_2_311f88e3-1021-4f6d-80ff-a37b0254b217">
<style type=3D"text/css">#AOLMsgPart_2_311f88e3-1021-4f6d-80ff-a37b0254b21=
7 td{color: black;} #AOLMsgPart_2_311f88e3-1021-4f6d-80ff-a37b0254b217 p=
{ margin: 0; }</style>
<div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">&=
nbsp; Isn't it on the driver's A-pillar between the hinges ?<br>
<br>
Or am I just thinking 58 ???<br>
<br>
B.<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
From: "Brian Shaputis" <<a href=""
href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx">brian_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx">bri=
an_shaputis@xxxxxxxxx</a>><br>
To: <a href="" href="http://ca.mc883.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxx=
.EDU</a><br>
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2010 12:19:47 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific<br=
>
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Desoto Fireflite VIN #<br>
<br>
<style>#AOLMsgPart_2_311f88e3-1021-4f6d-80ff-a37b0254b217 td{color: black;=
}
#AOLMsgPart_2_311f88e3-1021-4f6d-80ff-a37b0254b217 DIV {margin:0px;} </=
style>
<div style=3D"font-family: bookman old style,new york,times,serif; font-si=
ze: 14pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div>Can someone help me with this one please...? Where is the VIN=
located at on a 1960 Desoto Fireflite. I know one of you fin heads=
know the answer to this one... Thanks in advance!<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
Rochester, WA<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
=20
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 21:28:22 -0500
From:
jrawa@xxxxxxxSubject: Re: Spark Plug Holders ?
----------MB_8CC74EB2FF43A62_63C8_CFF6_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
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there werent actual plastic retainers like newer cars have [60s up] but-=
as mentioned already the rubber dipped metal retainers- attached by means=
like center valve cover bolts of poly blocks, and head tappings/v-cvr rai=
l bolts on big
blocks and hemis
WHAT I DID FOR A 57 FURY WAS USE THE TOOL DIP [eastwood sells it- and othe=
r suppliers] AND DIP THE ENDS OF THE WIRE LOOMS TO REPLICATE THE ORIGINAL=
PROTECTIVE LAYER
another trick if you want to be slick and use modern or better gauge ign=
wires- CAREFULLY [and firmly] hold the looms against a piece of wood and=
- with a drill press- make the wire openings larger- for 8mm wires- then=
dip them, the upgrade will be less notable- just remember a red boot on=
#1 position dist cap boot=20
=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxxTo:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxxSent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:21 pm
Subject:
[FWDLK] Spark Plug Holders ?
----- Original Message -----
Hi group,
=20
Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit into=
on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..
*************************************
Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the dipped rubber co=
ating at the separations, or the free floating plastic separators ?
The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets (they might=
still?) The steel dudes often times lose the rubber coating, but this ca=
n
easily be replicated with the insulating "tool dip" for plier handles, etc=
.
Or are you thinking of something completely different ?
B.
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription
options,please go to=20
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1=20=20
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http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1----------MB_8CC74EB2FF43A62_63C8_CFF6_webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
<div> <font size=3D"2"><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">there=
werent actual plastic retainers like newer cars have [60s up] but- as men=
tioned already the rubber dipped metal retainers- attached by
means like=
center valve cover bolts of poly blocks, and head tappings/v-cvr rail bol=
ts on big blocks and hemis<br>
<br>
WHAT I DID FOR A 57 FURY WAS USE THE TOOL DIP [eastwood sells it- and othe=
r suppliers] AND DIP THE ENDS OF THE WIRE LOOMS TO REPLICATE THE ORIGINAL=
PROTECTIVE LAYER<br>
<br>
another trick if you want to be slick and use modern or better gauge ign=
wires- CAREFULLY [and firmly] hold the looms against a piece of wood and=
- with a drill press- make the wire openings larger- for 8mm wires- then=
dip them, the upgrade will be less notable- just remember a red boot on=
#1 position dist cap boot <br>
</font></font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear: both;"></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:
arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
">-----Original Message-----<br>
From:
cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx<br>
To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 3:21 pm<br>
Subject: [FWDLK] Spark Plug Holders ?<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_2_3c06b65d-2153-4deb-8e27-90850975b71c">
<style type=3D"text/css">#AOLMsgPart_2_3c06b65d-2153-4deb-8e27-90850975b71=
c td{color: black;} #AOLMsgPart_2_3c06b65d-2153-4deb-8e27-90850975b71c p=
{ margin: 0; }</style>
<div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><=
br>
----- Original Message
-----<br>
<br>
<table border=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td sty=
le=3D"font: inherit;" valign=3D"top">
<div>Hi group,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Does anyone repro the rubber hold downs that the spark plug wires fit=
into on each side of the engine on a 1961 DeSoto ? Thanks..<br>
<br>
*************************************<br>
<br>
Are you referring to the pressed steel guides with the dipped=
rubber coating at the separations, or the free floating plastic separator=
s ?<br>
<br>
The latter are aftermarket and used to come with wire sets (they mi=
ght still?) The steel dudes often times lose the rubber coating, but=
this can<br>
easily be replicated with the insulating "tool dip" for
plier handles, etc=
.<br>
<br>
Or are you thinking of something completely different ?<br>
<br>
B.<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
<div><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"></font></div>
<br>
</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"></font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2">
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rwardlook&A=3D1">
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