Re: [FWDLK] Brakes
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Re: [FWDLK] Brakes



And, as far as the spring-loaded seat belts are concerned, I, too, around 1980, scored some 1966 date-coded Chrysler
seat belts, that came with those cute, longish vinyl retractor-housings.

The first thing that I did was remove the seat belts from those housings.

The shorter, lighter weight male-insert length gets put on the door-side. Mine are both installed behind/thru the front seat, but yours might be installed on the outboard rear-side of the seat (where the retractor-style was designed to be installed.)

Putting the shorter male-piece outboard also means that you don't have to slide over the buckle-piece, as you get
into & out of the car.

I can't help you, on shoulder belts, but, if anyone has access to a mid-late 60's MoPar, with the LOW-mounted seat lock system, that very-basic system can be easily adapted to our cars (as long as the cars are not the 1957 models, which might have the full-length plastic power seat housings on them; those plastic housings completely cover the area
where the seat lock mechanism and the release lever would be located).

The power seat control housings were changed in 1958, to a short durable pot metal piece, and, the 4-door models
have fixed seat backs, already.

Neil Vedder



dick whelan wrote:
The center plane brakes absolutely must have the shoes cam ground to match the drums. You will realize this if you purchase NOS shoes and try to install the drums without having them ground because the shoes are oversize and won't allow the drumsto go on. Modern non-asbestos linings are thinner and the drum will go on but you will have problems like you describe + won't stop for sh--t. Also when these brakes are adjusted you bring the shoe up tight and just back off to the point of no drag. Not like Bendix style brakes where you leave some drag. Dick W.

    ----- Original Message -----
    *From:* Mike & Sharon Higgins <mailto:clearcreek@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
    *To:* L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
    <mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
    *Sent:* Sunday, July 26, 2009 3:55 PM
    *Subject:* Re: [FWDLK] Brakes

    You say you checked the return springs.  Usually this is done by
    dropping them on a hard surface.  The old wives tale, or old
    mechanics tale, is that if they "clack" on the floor, they're
    good, but if they "ring", they're bad.  This is only a confirming
    check, however, and the cost of replacing them is worth the
    trouble, and avoids doubt.  But the drums could also be the
    culprit.  When the drums are turned, most shops nowadays are not
    familiar enough with drum brakes to remember some characteristics
    of drums.  When the drums are turned, not only do they needed to
    be checked for oversize, but also for continuity side-to-side.
    Unless the shoes are "arc-ground" to match the drum size
    (something that is almost never done today), the drums need to be
    within .010" inside diameter.  This way, each side shoes will be
    applying the same surface area to the drums with the same
    hydraulic pressure. Often, this can be the only problem. It might
    be worth considering.
Mike Higgins

        ----- Original Message -----
        *From:* Marg & Don <mailto:jdonmack@xxxxxxxxx>
        *To:* L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
        <mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
        *Sent:* Sunday, July 26, 2009 1:24 PM
        *Subject:* [FWDLK] Brakes

        Hi  Guys,
        I own a '59 Plymouth Belvedere 2dr HT (survivor) . I have a
        couple of questions.
Having problems with the front rt. brake grabbing hard,
        sporadically . (Not power brakes) The drums have been turned,
        new cylinders, new hoses, new shoes, have checked the
        pull-back springs (replaced one), appears to be no hydraulic
        leaks, all dry,. Have asked various brake guys, no one seems
        to have an answer.I can get rid of it by applying the brake
        and heating it up , but you never know when it is going to
        happen again. Could be dangerous
        Would appreciate some input.
The car has lap seat belts that are dated 1966. They have a
        spring loaded ratchet type (open-style). When they are opened
        they release so quickly that the buckle can hit the aluminum
        door sill.This is starting to put dents on it. Does anyone
        know of a good shoulder type seat belt that can be installed
        without modifications?
Thanks in advance, Don .
        	
        	

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