I'm informed and believe that worn wheel cylinders should not be
discarded, but should be professionally re-sleeved.
However, my 2-centavos is that, if the wheel cylinders need
replacing/re-working, that all
the rubber brake lines should be replaced at that time (if not, well
before the cylinders ever get to be pitted/leaking, etc.)
My car is going to the auto-doc manana, where Brent Burger's car's
former 2.76 rear end is hopefully going to be installed, to replace the
OEM 3.36:1 (just to see what its MPG & noise and performance is).
BUT: (finally getting to my point) I have read that if a car exhibits a
noticible initial 'pull' , when the brakes are applied, that the culpret
may not be a brake adjustment, but an INTERNAL failure, of a brake line,
which is partially collapsing.
My car is pulling, initially, but, when the brakes are continued to be
applied, it wants to stop in a straight line.
So, the Doc is gonna replace both front brake lines (available across
the counter @ a good parts shop) too, & I'll give y'all a report on
whether the brakes stop pulling (hopefully!)
Neil Vedder
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--- Begin Message ---
- From: Owen Grigg <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:23:49 +1200
Hi all
I am curious to know, the for and against of sleeving brake
master cylinders or wheel cylinders in stainless versus brass. I’ve been
told that brass like the original cast iron retains some moisture in the bore,
so acts as a lubricant and is easier on the rubber seals than stainless, that
typically runs dry.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Owen
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