[FWDLK] Clean MY Clock!!!

[eastern sierra Adj Services <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxx>]

Tony: you can buy me a BIG drink, in Tulsa, for this "one" :

Try as I have, I can NOT figure-out how to field-strip my 57 Dodge
clock(s) --have had TWO of them, since 1980.

ANYWAY (& here comes my free DRINK!) , all's you gotta do, is :
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, and, then: remove the speedo head (after
carefully using masking-tape-and-ink, to confirm/record  the
insertion-location  of all the bulbs that go INTO the back of the speedo
head), and, then, remove the speedo cable 
from the speedo head---all this takes 10 minutes, MAX (including the
'marking' of the bulb-wires), and requires only a small phillips head
screwdriver).

THEN: (with no fear of creating a short-circuit, from 'touching' the
wrong terminals) , take a medium-size bent-nose Vise-Grip, and remove
the two (probably VERY-tightly-attached) nuts, located at the 12 & 6
o'clock  positions, on the clock, where it attaches to the dash.

The above is COMPLETELY self-explanatory, and self-evident (as long as
you DISCONNECT the battery, first).

No problems/surprises, at all, in this project (IF THE BATTERY IS
DISCONNECTED).

Now, after exhausting your supply of expletives in loosening both nuts
(the 6 o'clock-one is a Beotch, to get to! --BTW, do not 'drop' either
nut, as they may disappear, forever, in the bowels of the dash-stuff)
the clock will 'glide-and-twist' ot from the speedo-opening.

NOW (getting back to that drink ;14 y.o. scotch works for me) , once the
clock is removed, get some WD-40 , and, using its red-snorkle, "shoot" a
second-or-two's worth into the clock's guts, via the small-ish hole that
you will find on the back of the clock.

Don't worry about the WD-40 "getting" onto the back-side of the clock's
glass-face; I don't know how/why, but in the 'many instances (ok, about
7 times??, since 1981) where the clock has stopped running, in each
case, the WD-40 has NOT ever shown-up on the clock face!!!!

Then, you can re-install the clock, but ONLY use/tighten the
easy-to-get-to 12 o'clock nut to hold/ground  the clock, to the dash!

NEXT: you can apply some light oil, to the 'oiling-fittings' , ON  the
speedo housing, where the speedo-cable attaches to it

THEN, while you are "there" , pull out the speedo cable (it's 4' long, &
just pulls-right-out)
and clean/lightly-grease its length, and THEN, get a 'Third-Hand' to
help you fish-in the greased cable into its housing, and connect the
speedo cable, with its separate lock-nut, to the back of the speedo
housing.

THEN, you refer to your handy-dandy masking-tape-marked light-bulbs, &
connect all them to the back of the speedo housing , and re-screw the
speedo housing, to the dash.

THEN: you RE-CONNECT the battery, & stand back, trying NOT to break your
face, by SMILING so hard, because your clock will have re-joined the
'living' !!!!!!!!!!!

AND, as a no-extra-charge "freebie", to anyone ELSE , who has suffered
thru this, so far:

"Almost" no one else knows this, (so ONLY use this info "to-do-GOOD
work" ) but, to ADJUST your clock's timing, for every "TWELVE HOURS"
that you advance/retard the clock's "time", you will ALTER its timing by
about ONE minute, per day, ( fast-or-slow, respectively).

So, if your clock is out-of-control, and gains 5 minutes/day, RETARD the
timing by 5 12-hour rotations, reset the time, & go check the clock's 
time, the next day.

You can acheive AMAZINGLY accurate clock-timing, on your car.

Glenmorangie is 'good' with me!


Neil Vedder  

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