John;At one time my Dealership had guys come in and do some "Rustproofing". just another BS thing to pump up the bottom line, but their method is good for you. They used a long semi-rigid plastic tube with a nozzle on the end that had holes 360° around it. Drill a 1/2 in hole, slide the tube in as far as you want and spray as you pull it out. Plug the hole with a rubber or plastic plug. They also had nozzles with holes only on one side so they could spray the inside of door panels but not the glass lift. Eventually, the primer/rustproofing at the factory got so good that these guys disappeared. I think they came back as stripers. Great racket! Also, todays undercoat is much more sticky and stays soft forever, it seems. But it won't crack like the old asphalt stuff. Ray On Feb 12, 2007, at 10:34 PM, John J. Hertog wrote: Ok, everyone agrees that rust prevention was not a priority back in the late 50's and early 60's; and that there is a lot of untreated sheetmetal in our cars. Now let's talk about solutions.How exactly does one treat the inaccessible areas of a vehicle's body, when doing a ground-up, frame-off restoration? How can one get to all those untreated nooks and crannies when the body is bare, short of dipping the entire body in one huge vat of POR-15, a totally impractical solution?My 300F convertible is now fully gutted and the body is undergoing rust repair and prep for paint. I'd like to ensure that rust doesn't return and, of course, now would be the time to do whatever can be done. I am just not sure how to get to all those inaccessible areas. I'd appreciate any feedback and practical solutions from this group.Thanks , John Hertog Sag Harbor NY ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go tohttp://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1 ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
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