I bought one of these for my 1955 Chrysler 300 with 12”
x 2” drums and it worked perfectly. Not a pretty tool but
hell-for-stout. My mechanic used it and spun the nuts with an air gun in
a fairly uniform rotation. Be sure to leave the axle hub not on so you do
not end up eating the puller and drum when the hub pops off of the tapered axle
end. And back off the drums so they don’t hang up behind an unworn
ridge on the inside edge of the brake drums. I would recommend the
combined system that will also pull the later drums with lug studs instead of
lug-capscrews. Your MoPar friends will appreciate your investment.
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/partsforsale.html There is a
lot of good MoPar stuff at this site.
14. Rear Brake Drum Puller:
Click here for pictures and info.
It consists of a 6"x6"x5/8" steel plate with the 5 holes drilled
on the 4 1/2" bolt pattern that all Mopars, except Imperial, use. For 1956
and newer cars that have studs on the drum, we made elongated nuts (1 3/8"
long) by drilling and tapping hex rod for right and left hand thread. We cut
right & left hand threaded studs to length and screwed them about half way
into the elongated nuts and tack welded them into place to maintain the right
length. You screw the five elongated nuts onto the stud on the drum. The studs
stick out beyond the axle far enough to install the plate over the studs and
sits against the axle shaft. You put a nut & washer on each stud &
tighten them until the drum comes off. It pulls on all five studs and is
shorter & sturdier than three legged pullers.
The puller for pre-1956 Mopars uses the same plate but the hardware is
different to attach to those drums that have threaded holes in the drum. I sell
them with the guarantee that if you are not satisfied with the puller, send it
back for a refund. So far no one has sent one back. The puller for 1956 and
newer cars sells for $100.00. The kit that includes hardware for pulling
pre-1956 drums is $125.00. Prices include UPS shipping. To order, send a check
made to Les Fairbanks to T & L Mold 1246 E. Empire Ave. Benton Harbor, MI
49022. I have a few pullers made up and usually ship the same day I get the
check. Thanks, Les email: lessue@xxxxxxxxxxx
(12/26/06)
I have a hunch that your hot brake fluid problem may be from
proximity to the exhaust system or an exhaust leak.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA
1955 Chrysler C-300
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