Most of these heat valves have 2 springs. The large one is wound like a
clock spring, concentric to the shaft, and rotates the shaft, opening and closing
the valve.
The small spring is attached between the shaft and a metal pin. It pulls
the shaft sideways to the wall of the hole in the cast valve housing,
eliminating side play in the shaft and rattles. It also allows exhaust carbon
to build up on one side of the shaft in the gap left when the shaft is pulled
sideways. Since this small spring is made of small diameter wire, it often
quickly rusts through and falls off.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-----Original
Message-----
From: John McCann
[mailto:jmccann@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 12:24
AM
To: David Homstad;
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust
Manifold Heat Valve
I think the anti rattle spring you are referring to is actually the thermal
spring that opens the heat riser valve when the engine warms up. Use a graphite
lubricant if you can find one.
John McCann
Wilbur,
Washington
Picture site:
http://community.webshots.com/user/metralla2
-----
Original Message -----
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006
9:54 PM
Subject: Re:
[FWDLK] Exhaust Manifold Heat Valve
Another option
is to remove the anti-rattle spring. This allows the shaft to rattle around a
little in the hole until it gets hot. This rubs off any accumulated carbon.
My favorite technique is to
use a chisel and remove the plate from the shaft. Then it will never get stuck
shut again. If you don’t plan on driving your car in winter, the heat valve is
not necessary.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar
Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 10:20
PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust
Manifold Heat Valve
In a message dated 6/13/2006 8:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
What
lubricant do you use that won't burn off under the high heat of the
exhaust manifold ?
As I recall, we used things like Carburetor cleaner spray, or
solvents, when the engine was cold. The idea was to keep the carbon and
rust from seizing the things up in the first place. you can also use
stuff like powdered graphite or lock de-icer which have graphite in
suspension. This carries the graphite into the shaft and leaves it after
the solvent evaporates.
Don't use plain oil, because it will cook into carbon and make
things worse.
The best policy is to get it free, and keep moving it every week
or so to keep it free.
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, Michigan
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