Another option is to remove the anti-rattle spring. This
allows the shaft to rattle around a little in the hole until it gets hot. This
rubs off any accumulated carbon.
My
favorite technique is to use a chisel and remove the plate from the shaft. Then
it will never get stuck shut again. If you don’t plan on driving your car in
winter, the heat valve is not necessary.
Dave
Homstad
56 Dodge
D500
-----Original
Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar
Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 10:20
PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust
Manifold Heat Valve
In a
message dated 6/13/2006 8:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
What lubricant do you
use that won't burn off under the high heat of the
exhaust manifold ?
As I
recall, we used things like Carburetor cleaner spray, or solvents, when the
engine was cold. The idea was to keep the carbon and rust from seizing
the things up in the first place. you can also use stuff like powdered
graphite or lock de-icer which have graphite in suspension. This carries
the graphite into the shaft and leaves it after the solvent evaporates.
Don't
use plain oil, because it will cook into carbon and make things worse.
The
best policy is to get it free, and keep moving it every week or so to keep it
free.
Joe Savard
Lake Orion, Michigan
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