If there was antifreeze in it, I wouldn't even try to start it, except
perhaps with water only in the cooling system (and well flushed at that).
Water won't cool as well as antifreeze mix but it also won't mix with the
oil and ruin your engine, if there is a leak or crack somewhere.
These motors have a serial number on the block, on the front "below the
water outlet elbow" - my book does a lousy job of describing the location,
on my '60 Windsor it seems like the number was on the cylinder block below
the edge of the head. It doesn't tell anything about codes in the DeSoto
section.
The Chrysler section indicates the motor should have a code on it, the
example they give for a '60 Windsor is PR-387-5 where the PR = 60 Windsor,
38 = 383 CI, and 7-5 means it was built July 5th. A New Yorker 413 would
be a P-41-7-5, which adds a dash between the engine displacement code and
the date code - all in the same paragraph of the book (don't they proofread
or is that correct?!)
The Dodge codes were on the right side of the block, if DeSoto and Dodge are
the same all it shows me is P-38 is the code for a 383. My guess is they
mean the right front below the head, which could be either side depending on
if the writer thought to indicate right side of the car or right as you face
it. Plymouth 301s are on the left front of the block as I remember.
Also seems as though if you find a sequential production number it may be
close to but not quite match up to the sequential production number in the
VIN.
Seems odd they'd have a bunch of different codes for the same motors, but I
suppose to match each line's serial numbers they'd change the stamp. Worst
case you might have to scrape off some sludge, if your motor has no paint
left you can always hit the code with a spray bomb of cheap primer to make
it readable.
The castings will have date codes on them which can also be used to help
determine if the engine is likely original - I dont have a reference for
that data.
Bill K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Whitman" <Robert.Whitman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 3:40 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] 1960 Adventurer... Original engine?
I have a 1960 Adventurer 4dr. It has not been run in almost 3 years, and it
is time to fire it up. It ran fine, but the brakes quit braking. I am
having some concerns as I buy parts for the engine and related items, so I
thought I would ask a few questions: I was told that the engine was
rebuilt, but the previous owner did not know if it was the original engine,
or for that matter, a 383 as all Adventurers came with. Everything else
about the car seems 100% original. It is a red block with red valve covers
which is not typical for this car. The air cleaner cover is original, which
leads me to believe a previous owner preferred to keep things original.
How do I find out if this is the original motor, or what motor it is, if not
original. Are there #'s on the block to tell me? When I changed the oil,
there was a bunch of green coolant mixed in......oh boy. If my mechanic
recommends a new motor, I want to know if this is the original block that I
may want to rebuild, or dump for something new because it is not original,
anyway.
In an effort to start it after 3 years of sitting in the garage, I have been
advised by a friend to:
replace the plugs
clean the fuel filter
Oil prime the motor by pouring a teaspoon worth of oil in the spark plug
holes.
check all fluids
then crank the motor for 60 seconds with the coil disconnected to prime the
motor more.
then pray and try to start it....with a fire extinguisher nearby.
Do you have any other basic thoughts or precautions for me?
Sorry for my simplicity, but I don't know much about working on these older
cars. Not a good way to be for a guy that loves old cars. I'm workin on
it. And I love this DeSoto!!
-Robert in K.C.
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