The end of that master can be drilled and tapped with no problem. There are actually two holes made, a smaller pilot hole that goes all the way through (it measures the pressure only and does not have to be full size) and a larger hole that is then tapped for the threads of the brake light switch. You just have to take all the guts out of the master first. And be very careful to get all the metal chips out.
Jim
-------------- Original message -------------- Is it possible he taped the hole himself?
-------------- Original message --------------
The '68 Roadrunner M/C fits very well. It uses some funky fittings, but I got them off of "adapter lines" from Pep Boys and just flared them onto new lines. I did have to turn down the last 1/2" of the original adjustable power brake pushrod. I turned it down on a grinder to better fit in the hole on the m/c pushrod rather than just cutting it shorter. Oh, by the way, there are two versions of this. A short one, with a bolt-on cap, and a tall one, with a bail wire cap. You'll need the shorter one. I bought a brand new Wagner one for about $50 with no core charge.
You have to rig up a manual power brake switch though, unless someone could ID this m/c -- it seems identical to the roadrunner m/c except for the brake light fitting. http://www.forwardlook.net/events/Carlisle2004/im004710.jpg Anbody know what one it is? It's on Tim Satter's '57 DeSoto Firesweep...
-Dave
I need to replace or update the mastercylinder on my 57 Coronet, 325 manual brake car. Discussions a while back focused on a newer, dual MC that was a direct replacement for our single MC. I understand the safety factor, but how difficult is this conversion, and what besides the MC is required (Line splitter box, rerouting of brake lines, etc)?
Also plan to replace the transmission emergency brake at the same time, since mine is saturate!
! d by fluids from many years of use and long periods of sitting. Are these available from NAPA or other "quality" parts houses?
LARRY (Akron)
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