> From memory, it's just keep on whacking
> with the big hammer (with something protecting
> the end of the shaft from damage of course)
Maybe the trick is to use a long brass drift inserted thru the strut rod
holes in front ?
To improve the "wacking" factor over a small brass drift behind the front
crossmember ?
(read more precision and more room for the hammer)
It seems that the hole and the shaft are perfectly aligned for some good
reason ...
But so far, it's the most stubborn thing I've ever encountered on my car
(apart from the rear brake drums, which I haven't removed so far ...). And
there's no other way to replace the lower control arm bushings ...
Vincent Van Humbeeck
'58 Plymouth Belvedere Sport Coupe
===========================================================================
Vincent Van Humbeeck wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm trying to remove the lower control arm from the frame crossmember, but
> the shaft does not seem to move. Torsion bars are out of the way, front
nut
> and cotterpin are removed and the upper control arms are loose from the
> frame. I've tried to force it, but before I put some true force to it, I
> want to make sure I did not forget something obvious.
>
> The service manual says "Using a hammer and a brass drift, loosen shaft (a
> tapered fit in front crossmember)". Is there something else ? Or is there
> any useful tricks I should know ?
>
> On another tip, is this easier to remove the ball joints from the control
> arms when they are still attached to the frame, or can it also be done
when
> they are removed ?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Vincent Van Humbeeck
> '58 Plymouth Belvedere Sport Coupe
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