Re: [FWDLK] Brake Conversion

[Dave Casey <dcasey@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You definitely do need it when you switch to discs, but its a good idea to
have anyway for better braking control. Depending on when they came out with
the built in, factory set proportioning valves will tell you when it
matters. I've never put a dual M/C on and kept the front drums. God bless
AAJ.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Stragand <Dave.Stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Brake Conversion


Correct me if I'm wrong, but you will only need the proportioning valve
if you switch to discs, correct?

-Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Sersen [mailto:msersen@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:30 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Brake Conversion


You do not have to get any special one. No one would know which that
"special one" is anyway. You need a proportioning valve connected to the
rear line and adjust it  accordingly using the trial and error method
for the first hour or so. Drive, reach under and turn the knob, drive
again and reach under again until the front brakes are taking hold just
a bit before the front and neither is locking up. Mike Sersen
:-{)
P.S. All performance shops sell Willwood proportioning valves.
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe frega" <joefrega@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:24 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] Brake Conversion


> Hello everyone,
>
> Since Jason's brakes failed, and even though I have
> already replaced the two front brake hoses and intend
> to replace ther rear and the master cylinder hose, I
> have been seriously considering changing the sytem to
> a dual system (or whatever you call it).  If I
> understand correctly, all I need to do is replace the
> master cylinder with a dual model, run a separate line
> to the rear to isolate the rear from the front.  I'm
> handy enough to run a new brake line (familiar with
> tubing benders, cutters, flaring tools, etc) so I
> don't think this will be much of a problem
>
> Here's what I don't know:  Is there "special" master
> cylinder I need to get? (my mechanic says it has to
> match properly with the system or you can get too much
> or too little pressure) Where do I get the new
> cylinder?  Are there any other considerations I didn't
> menion above?  What else do I not know about this
> project?
>
> While I'm at it, any help on locating new shoes and
> wheel cylinders would be appreciated also.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe and Jason
> 56 Belvedere (rearend still noisy as h..l)
>
>
>
>
>
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