With respect to 1959 Plymouth engine options, one could get a 230 c.i. flathead, a 318 with 1,2, or 4 bbl, or a 361 with 4 bbl. (Some also say the 383 was available, but it aint in the brochures) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Stein <Posti@AOL.COM> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU <L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU> Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 5:16 AM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Fixing up 59 Plymouth (Was No Subject) >Hiya! > >I have a 59 Dodge that I've been working on for a while. The rbakes have >been a problem, though I think that is mostly straightened out now. I looked >over your questions, and will provide opinions on a couple for you. > >1) Of course, anybody have any leads on a good quality Mopar friendly shop in > the Austin, TX area? (Sorry - live in Virginia) > >1) Can I put hazards/back up lights in the car without too much trouble? >Backup lights were optional - the transmission has the setup, you just need a >switch (ebay has one currently). So you can go with original setup there. >Hazards are just an added switch and flasher - though you really don't need >them for anything. > >2) Has anyone ever put in any kind of aftermarket air conditioning in that > flathead six? I am really just looking to have the edge taken off of the >Texas > summers, it doesn t have to be a bone chilling monster system. Can I keep >the > generating system intact if I add something like this, or should I find an > alternator? If not possible, any other suggestions for keeping my weary >bones > cool? >29 and you have weary bones? ::grin:: Anyway, the flathead six was not a >strong engine, and would be slow enough without the added strain of AC see my >note on engine choice. One suggestion - check the local boneyards for one of >the underdash AC units that were popular in the late fifties and sixties. >They contain all of the AC elements you nfor inside the car, lare original, >and need only hookup to the compressor and condesor. > >3) If I do an engine swap (not at all likely), what is easy and keeps the push > button transmission intact? >I'd suggest a wide-block 318 V-8, available from a long series of MOPAR >products. It's the same block that I have in my 59 Dodge with Powerflight, >so tranny boltup should be the same. Plus, the 318 may have been available >in the 59 Plymouth, so you could actually maintain originality while making >the car much more drivable. This would also simplify the AC qustion. You >could find a later MOPAR with the appropriate running gear and AC, and simply >swap the assemblies over. You'd get the engine, alternator,, etc. in one >fell swoop, and probably for cheap. More experienced MOPAR guys can tell you >what years are compatible. > >4) Safety: Brake system redone with dual chamber master cylinder. Anything >else > on brakes that shouldn t be stock? As long as you keep a check on the >system, the original brakes are fine as they are. Even the master cylinder >is no problem - I have a 1950 Chevy pickup that I've driven for 8 years >without adding a drop of brake fluid. And even when I have had an old car >run out of brake fluid (blown rear wheel cylinder), I had enough brakes to >stop the car. Modifying the master cylinder is more than just on something >from a newer car. You have plumbing, linkage, and most importantly, pressure >equalization problems. > >5) What kind of money can get you a decent, driveable car nowadays? I look > around in the auto trader, etc. and see really obnoxious amounts spent on > various vehicles. Of course you can spend as much as you like and all, but >am > I realistic in thinking I can get a good quality driver for the amount of >money > I have to spend? BTW, I did already upholster the seats and they are ready >to > go. >To be honest, you are gonna spend a LOT more money building up this Plymouth. > A decent (not show-winning) paint job with minimal body work can run $2K >easily, and that will buy a nice daily driver, at least in Virginia. And I >can guarantee that you won't get that money back out of a car that is >modified. As long as this will be a car you want to keep for the long haul, >and aren't in it as an investment, that won't matter. As a case in point, >my car (http://hometown.aol.com/posti/59dodge.htm) was a terrific choice for >restoration. It was complete, had only 39K miles original, had a perfect >original interior, and only one area of serious rust. I paid $800 for the >car. The engine had to have a top-end rebuild, the brake system had to be >replaced, lots of sanding and tinkering elsewhere. I did everything but the >paint and rust repair myself. The paint shop gave me a great price ($2K) >because the guy was a Mopar freak and I had done a lot of the prep stripping >and sanding. All in all, I would guess that I have about $5K in the car >total. NOT COUNTING two years of my own labor! > >6) Are there any really known weak spots safety-wise that I should go over > extremely carefully?? My three children will be riding in this car and I > really want it as safe as possible. >Seat belts, obviously. If you are going to drive this car regularly, you may >consider wide-white radials instead of bias-ply tires. Some tire places can >actually take a bargain set of standard whitewalls and shave the facing out >to create a wide whitewall. (Locally, it's about $15 per tire for the >service). Considering that you can get Pep Boys tires at 4 for $100 and get >the tires shaved for $60, the $120 per tire cost of the wide white radials in >Hemmings seems a bit out of reach. > >7) Bottom line, I will have a ton of questions and you guys have always helped > immensely. I trust you and will undoubtedly have even more questions as time > goes on. >Good luck! I'm a former mechanic who is learning old Mopar tricks as I go. >I'll be happy to share info, data, and mistakes! And I am posting this to >the group so that if I have made any glaring errors in my suggestions, I can >be soundly thrashed by the membership! ::grin:: > >Bob Stein >59 Dodge Coronet >
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