Hi Larry,
Good to hear from another "G" owner. Let me know when you are here and we
can visit that junkyard!
300ly,
Don
----------
> From: menges <buick.meng@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: New Member and Brake Fixes
> Date: Saturday, March 21, 1998 8:39 PM
>
> Hi Don, well you are looking at another finned Chrysler nut or rather
> hearing from one. My son and I have a 1961 300G and a 61 New Yorker
Town
> and Country wagon. We have several other MOPARS. We just joined the
> forwardlook on Friday. My wife is from Cranston R.I. My sister and
> brother in law still live there. His name is C.R. Martin. We have been
> back there many many times. I have heard of the salvage yard that you
are
> talking about. We are coming to R.I.for a week on the 20th of July. Go
> U.R.I..
> We will talk to you later.
>
> Larry Menges
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------
> > From: Donald Verity <d.verity@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: New Member and Brake Fixes
> > Date: Saturday, March 21, 1998 3:47 PM
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I just signed up this week so introductions are in order! My name is
> Don
> > Verity and I am from Smithfield, R.I.. I seem to be the first person
who
> > has written who has later finned Chryslers. I own a 59 300-E, 60-F, and
> > 61-G. I also have a 66 Imperial Crown Coupe, 69 T&C wagon, 70 New
Yorker
> > 4dr. ht., 70 Challenger R/T, and 85 Laser turbo. I have owned my G
> longest
> > of all my finned cars. I bought it in November, 91 with 51,000 original
> > miles and have put about 25,000 on it since. It is a very rust free car
> and
> > is the best driving car I own. It is almost completely free of any wind
> > noise and rattles and the power is awesome! I bought my F in 93. It has
a
> > non-stock 69 440 and 62 aluminum torqueflite. It has the rams on it and
> > looks like stock until you check the number pad. It has done a best of
> > 14.33 at 93.68 at the drags and is currently being restored (mostly by
> me).
> > The 59 E has not run since 66 and has a dealer installed Paxton
> > supercharger on it. It had an engine compartment fire in 66 and hasn't
> run
> > since. I was in the right place at the right time to get this one! It
> needs
> > a full restoration. My basic philosophy on the cars is to drive and
enjoy
> > them because that's what they were made for. The best way to really
> > appreciate a letter car (or any old car) is to drive it!
> >
> > On to the brake problems! When I brought my G home I had to use dish
> soap
> > and a hose so it would slide off the ramp truck. All four wheels were
> > frozen! It had been in the original owners home which was vacant after
> his
> > death. The pipes had frozen and burst at one point and when they
thawed,
> > no-one noticed that they were leaking for quite a while! The G did not
> > suffer any damage except the moisture from the water froze the drums to
> the
> > fresh shoes. Even though all the parts were fairly new, the wheel
> cylinders
> > were no good. On cars as old as ours I don't believe in taking chances
> with
> > the brakes. I completely rebuilt the system with new cylinders, hoses,
> and
> > master cylinder. I cleaned up the shoes and drums figuring they were OK
> to
> > use as is since the shoes were new. I also used silicone fluid. After
> this
> > the hydraulic part was OK, the brakes still pulled quite badly. To make
> an
> > already to long story shorter, the problem was the shoes and their fit
to
> > the drums. What I did was to have the drums turned and ground, and I
had
> > the new shoes contour ground to fit the drums. It made all the
difference
> > in the world! The car stops straight and true and I have had no
problems
> in
> > over 20,000 miles! There are not to many shops around that can grind
> drums
> > and shoes but it is worth the effort to find one. Brake noises are
> usually
> > because of shoe fit also. Keep in mind also that if your brake pedal
> pumps
> > up, or is spongy, there could be air in the system. I have bled my
brakes
> > myself using a glass jar party filled with fresh fluid and a hose
running
> > from the bleeder valve to the jar. All you have to do is loosen the
> bleeder
> > and pump the brakes until there are no bubbles. Another cause of a low
> > pedal could be the adjustment of the pedal rod from the brake pedal to
> the
> > master cylinder. It should be adjusted so there is minimal play in the
> rod
> > (not the pedal). If it is to tight, the brakes will drag and quickly
> > overheat. The adjustment at the wheels is important too. They should be
> > adjusted according to the shop manual. I have done the same treatment
to
> my
> > F with the same results. It also has metallic linings that I got from
> NAPA
> > a few years ago. I have made back to back runs at the drag strip with
no
> > problems stopping. All the things I have written pertain to center
plane
> > brakes of the power variety. Most of the tips should work on the
earlier
> > design. I also agree that putting a dual system on a car not designed
for
> > it will not help braking performance, and if your brake system and
> > emergency brake is in top shape, you should enjoy miles and miles of
safe
> > and trouble free driving. The old brakes don't compare to modern disc
> > brakes, but our Chrysler brakes were actually better than average when
> they
> > were new, so you are safer driving a Chrysler product anyway!
> >
> > Both of my Cross-Ram cars also Idle like they have a two barrel, but
> Ram
> > tuning is another story, and I have rambled on long enough! Long live
the
> > fins!!
> >
> > PS. I live near a Mopar junk yard that has a number of 56-62 Mopars,
> > mostly Chryslers, but if anyone needs something, let me know.
> >
> > 300ly,
> > Don
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