Thanks to all for the posts.
However there appears to be an inherent problem in this expensive solution to
leaky wheel cylinders every 3 years, and thats about it when I replace the
kits, no matter what older car I have owned, how offen I bleed em, and what
fluid I happen to use (DOT 3 or Silicone).
Anyone remember WHAT is gooped and boogered up???
Its the PISTON, not the CI cylinder.
And as I recalled that, I said= hey, those pistons were a metallic rose color,
I think they were anodized ALUMINUM!!!!!! No wonder they got eaten up.
Put two dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid, which contains water,
and what do you get?
The more active metal corroding. Basic physics.
AND
as our non sealed systems (compared to todays sealed brake systems, remember
they have like a diaphragm in the master cylinder to further seal it) they
suck up moisture as they sit, almost like osmosis even thru the porous master
cylinder?
So we get leaking cylinders NOT due to the cast iron but due to aluminum
pistons and galvanic action.
I have finally gotten the rear hubs and axles pulled, thanx to a king kong
puller.
My white post info says nothing about the material of the pistons they supply.
Note that maximum corrosion occurs the further the metals are on the galvanic
scale. Aluminum is relatively close to cast iron, with only Steel and Cadmium
between it. BUT There are maybe 10 metals between aluminum and Brass or
Bronze meaning there may be a 5 fold decrease in corrosion of the Bronze over
Cast iron but NOT of the aluminum piston.
Now
How many of you have rebuilt your wheel cylinders with aluminum pistons and
how many have cast iron pistons? I would bet that if U have CI pistons U
have relative little problem....
If the above is true, and I beleive it is, there is little use to go to Brass
or Bronze or stainless liners.
may as well look for some CI pistons? Bronze pistons in CI body? What?
L.
Good- I didnt send this to the train list!
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