Steve,
My understanding is that the distributor for a "LA" engine family will fit a
"A" 318 family engine.
I have a 56 Dodge D500. The only problem using the late model electronic
distributor in the early Hemis and their Poly brothers is that the
distributor shaft is a different length. I do not know if the electronic and
points shafts are interchangable at the top end, to swap to get the correct
length. The 318 family is a different series from all the earlier V8s. Also,
I prefer to keep my engine stock appearing on the outside without funny
cables and boxes, so I am using the stock distributor, right down to the red
boot over the #1 plug wire at the distibutor cap. I did replace the 40 year
old original coil with a Jacob's Electronics (800-627-8800) Energy Coil that
fits in the original style coil brackets. I am still using dual points and
now get greatly improved fast starts with this coil, and no noticeable
missfire at high (5000) RPM, even with dual carbs.
I think that if I change the breaker plate to a single point style, I can
convert to a totally inside-the-distributor electronic system. I think I
will try the Pertronix system, based on Ron Dulmage's sugestion.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
At 10:31 AM 12/31/98 EST, you wrote:
>Lars,
> Mopar Performance does indeed make an electronic ignition upgrade
kit. It's
>available from any dealer, or for much less money from the mail order houses,
>or my friends at Mancini Racing in Detroit (if you've got a good buddy in the
>parts department at the dealer, you may do better yet). The part numbers are
>as follows:
>
>Engine Family Part
Summit Mancini Mopar Perf
>
Number 800/230-3030 810/294-6670 (Dealer)
>170-198-225 Slant Six Engines P3690789 $128.95
$129.95 $158.00
>3.9L V-6 Engines P4529402
>273-318, 340-360 Engines P3690426
$119.95 $119.95 $159.00
>350-361-383-400 Engines P3690427 $143.95
$139.95 $179.00
>413-426W-426 Hemi-440 P3690428 $143.94
$139.95 $179.00
>
> The kits include the high performance electronic ignition
distributor (with
>performance advance curve and adjustable vacuum advance), the orange ECU
>(electronic control unit), ballast resistor, wiring harness, electrical
>connectors, and detailed instructions.
>
> The Feburary 1999 edition of Mopar Muscle (on your news stands
now!) has an
>article about Electronic Ignition upgrades. While they do mention the
>aforementioned kits, this article focuses on a low-buck approach to the
>conversion, using just the Mopar performance harness (P3690152), and ballast
>resistor (P5206436), with the remaining parts coming from the local auto parts
>store and the junk yard.
>
> I am unsure as to whether the "LA" style 318 and the older "A" 318
>distributors interchange. If nothing else, perhaps the newer guts could be
>made to fit the older housings. If anyone has this information, please share
>it! If I don't hear in the next few days, I'll check it out and advise the
>group. I seem to remember a local fellow who had done this to his Poly 318,
>and he was no brain surgeon. We'll figure it out!
>
> One last note for those of you living with poor fuel distribution -
cross-
>rams, etc... I run a Max-Wedge in my Barracuda, and the Max-Wedges are
>notorious for poor fuel distribution at at low RPM's (street driving). I
>chose to use a remanufactured electronic distributor, modified the advance
>curve to suit me, then used a Crane HI-6 Ignition control. The HI-6 is a
>multi-spark unit (similar to MSD), that fires the spark plug up to 12 times
>each compression cycle during cranking. "At idle and cruise, the number of
>sparks is adjusted to maintain a spark duration of 20 degrees (crankshaft)
>assuring smooth idle, improved throttle response, and eliminating lean surge."
>(quoted from the instructions)
>
> Let it suffice to say I no longer suffer from snotty idle or sluggish
>throttle response.. she idles smooth and cracking the throttle open is like
>pulling the trigger on a rifle. Turn the key and the car is running - it
>nearly explodes to life! Want to hear what my engine sounds like cranking?
>Sorry, can't help you. Once after adjusting the carb linkages (and
>subsequently bumping the accelerator pumps repeatedly) I was sure I was going
>to have to install clean plugs to get her to start. Turned the key... ZOT
>ZOT RRRROOOAAARRrrrrrrrr. I love it!
>
> Hope this helps - good luck!
>
>Steve
>
>
Dave
|
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network