Re: [FWDLK] Brake Misinformation
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Re: [FWDLK] Brake Misinformation



I think I am more confused about these @$%@$#$^)%^$#$%^ brakes then before
Jesus ' 55 Belveredre

Lars Larson 56 Plymouth wrote:

> Nothing seems to be simple do it?
> First of all, 55-56 brakes are of the Wagner Lockeed non servo type.
> Well almost.
> My Raybestos brake manual says that SOME Dogdes and all Chrysler and DeSoto in
> 56 used the Chrysler Center plane total contact brake. Plymouth still used the
> Wagner system as did some Dogdes.
> Note the article quoted is for the wagner lockheed units which is correct for
> the 55-56 Plymouth of both 10 and 11 inch brakes.
> Method of adjustment for the two different brake types is just that,
> Different.
> back to the 55-56 Plymouth in question-
> While the recommended procedure from WPC seems to be fine, I think there are
> some inherent problems.
> First, if you wannt cut that slot into the adjuster bolt, make it virtually in
> the same direction as the arrow is.  In other words, when the arrow is
> parralel to the ground the slot should be parallel to the ground.  THIS IS
> BECAUSE the starting point for a major adjustment is for the arrows to be
> pointing at each other!!!!!  No other location will do!   In the case of front
> wheels, the top arrows point each to the wheel cylinder right next to it.  For
> rears, they just point to each other.  Now you start your adjustment
> procedure.
>
> What U R doing is setting the  anchor end of the shoes at minimum and then
> moving them out  from that minimum point to get the recommended clearance.
> After U have established that point U can go to the adjusters at midpoint of
> the backer plate and adjust for the loose end of the shoe.  This is of course
> a minor adjustment, the major portion having already been made.  U may find
> that after U adjusted the loose end (middle adjuster) U have to back off the
> anchor end and recheck the loose end.
>
> It MATTERS how U rotate the adjusters. Both get moved in a similar direction,
> each away from each other.
> IT is covered in Mopar shop manuals for various years and in MoToRs manual
> often available at your public library.
> You MUST turn those &*&@*&!@#*((&*!@!!!  adjusters on the backside the proper
> direction and not just wiggle them b ack and forth till it feels 'OK'.   SOme
> manyuals carefully show the direction U must turn the bolts (each in opposite
> direction from each other), others do not, esp the later ones,  most likely
> since Chrysler has felt their people knew that over the past _____ years of
> experience???
> My 55/56 Plymouth manual shows this clearly on page 35 and 36.
> Attempting to repair/adjust our >>>>LOOK vehicles requires a service manual if
> you desire facts not heresay or "mebbee this ill werk" kind of info.  Buy
> yourself one for CHristmas- your wife or significant other will find you much
> less crabby!
> NOW
> You want to measure heel and toe clearances?  Not guess like the earlier
> article said?  Get your handy dandy bench grinder that U made from that old
> washing machine motor and grind a slot in the brake drum where the braking
> surface intersects the large flat face of drum.   Do it Just big enough say
> 5/8 incches long x 1/8" high, so U can slip a feeler gage thru and MEASURE!
> For your conscience U may wish to use a small rat tail file to ease the edges
> of the slot eliminating stress concentration.  Do this on every brake drum.
> When U measure U will rotate the drum until U get to heel or toe.  Obviously
> this is not accurate with distorted drums!!!!!  But you have checked this or
> had them turned so thats not a problem.
> My 51 Merc came from the factory with such slots.  I did this on my 38 Ply
> pickup also.
> And dont forget heel and toe is different for front and rear shoes!!!!   Rear
> wheels the heel is at bottom for both shoes.  Front brakes the heel is at
> bottom of front shoe and TOP of rear shoe-
> The rear brakes were first used in 1928 and minor changes up  to 56 except for
> changing ftrom stepped bore cylinders to straight bore.  Note the front brakes
> use an unusual type of piston and seal arrangement, with the seal located
> midway in the cylinder rather than just a  piston with a seal at the inside
> end.  I dont recall that mine were special in any way, would bet most of us do
> not have the original style cylinder/seal.....
> The rear brakes are self energizing and the wrapping motion of the drum/shoes
> assists in braking, except for the shorter rear shoe which does little work
> when braking under forward motion.
> Bottom line for all this,
> Its a pain in the butt to adjust these brakes when U start from ground zero.
> U gotta have a manual and lots of patience.  Yes U will readjust them several
> times  (even the manual says this  bottom of p 35 in a box) but when its all
> RIGHT they work super.
> At this point I can (simply) adjust my brakes [ 'take em up' ] just with a big
> open end wrench.  I would guess unless we use our  finned friend as a daily
> driver we need  to only do this major adjustment once in the life of our car?
> (short of leakng cylinders from winter storage...)  And when U use that slot
> your wheels will NOT be on the car unless your wheel style allows U to sneak a
> feeler guage thru one of the large slots that exist in our fabricated wheels.
> Patience and Rotsa Ruck!
> Lars




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