While we are discussing OEM speaker replacement, I just replaced my ‘56
Plymouth dash speaker with an improved 4ohm 6.5” diameter speaker. Since I
a set/pair of speakers, I have one left over along with the proper 55/56
Ply/Dodge mounting tabs for “angled” placement as was the original. JVC
CS-V628 6.5” with proper 4ohm impedance for a 55/56 Plymouth & Dodge.
$20 plus shpg. Picture attached of angle mount brackets.
Please email me with any interest.
Thank you,
Gary Pavlovich
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Radio Speakers
- If you are sticking with the factory OEM transistor radio, then it would
be easiest and safest to use a factory rated speaker (probably 4 ohm
impedance, and likely no wattage rating available, since they were pretty low
in power)
- If you want louder and higher fidelity music, then you’d move up to an
aftermarket stereo system and select speaker(s) that are appropriately matched
for that set up (2, 4, or 8 Ohms, with 100, 200, 300 watt ratings)
- The radio/amplifier generates the power (wattage) which is the main thing
that determines loudness. Factory radios are very low wattage (5 watts
or less).
- Ideally you want a speaker that is not only compatible in impedance (ohms)
but has the appropriate power HANDLING capacity (watts)
- In old cars, its only when you start using non-factory, high powered
stereos and amplifiers that you start talking about “100 watt” or “200 watt”
speakers
- You don’t get any louder sound out of a "high wattage" speaker UNLESS YOU
ALSO have an associated high wattage radio/amplifier
- The discussion below about ohms (impedance) and pushing different power
levels to the speaker is related to the fact that when there is an impedance
rating mismatch, the amount of power that makes it from the radio to the
speaker is impacted, (its sort of like the speaker either allows more
power or resists more power from the radio amplifier) which affects the
loudness.
- If there is too much “draw" or too much resistance from the speaker, it
can cause problems in the radio if the circuitry is not designed to tolerate
the extra power drain or heat or whatever-weird-electrical-characteristic
happens when the wrong speaker impedance is present
- As stated below, low power radios like the original transistor models in a
’59 dodge might not be impacted much if you move from a 4 to 8 ohm speakers
(overheating, etc.) But I worry about old electronics…especially since
transistors were not as good quality as they were later. They used
selenium-based components back then which I understand can burn out
easier.
There’s also a whole other area of “speaker efficiency” or “speaker
sensitivity” ratings (measured in dB) that affects how loud a speaker can
be at a given wattage and impedance. Its all about how much power the
speaker needs in order to to move (vibrate) the paper cone and reproduce
sound. Some need less power than others. That discussion is usually
limited to audiophiles who are trying to squeeze out as much sound as they can
at a lower wattage in a home sound system.
Ok, So if the speaker is set up for 8 ohms (seems to be the
consensus) what wattage can I hope to push through the speaker (not looking at
blowing the doors off, but don't want to over/underpower the system). Is
200 watts or more too much? How does wattage impact a tube-type
radio (what is too much)?
Does it matter if the speaker is dual-cone, coaxial,
etc?
Thanks. This is uncharted country for me.
Larry (Akron)
Date: Tue, 9 May 2017
12:59:25 -0500 From: Steve Lacker <lackersg@xxxxxxxxx> To: Mopar
Mailing List <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re:
Radio Speakers Message-ID: <CAD4PAiGT0ZmGibkMeeXp9cGuoJ5zoaEr7hrBq+GQCTskyAaD=Q@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=UTF-8
At low power like stock radios, 4 or 8 ohms
won't usually make much of a difference. The radio can always push the
most power into the speaker its matched for- if its an 8-ohm radio and
you hook up a 4-ohm speaker, you won't get as much power into the speaker
and so the volume will be a little lower (and there'll be a little more
heat in the amp itself since it will be trying to push more current than
its designed for, but at 1-5 watts of output it doesn't matter much). By
the same token, if the output of the radio is 4 ohms and you hook up an
8-ohm speaker, the volume will be lower also- in this case because the
amp cannot generate enough voltage swing to push full power into the 8
ohms. There's usually not much risk to the amp in this case, until you
get to 10s of watts where the higher voltage could damage the output
stages.
The one caveat I'd point out is that if that '59 has a vacuum
tube radio, all bets are off. Vac tubes required a transformer on the
output, and the speakers could have a lot of different impedances
depending on how the transformer was wound.
On Tue, May 9,
2017 at 8:37 AM, cdcooke--- via MML <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
Basically the lower the ohm value of the speaker, the higher watts the
amp > can push to it. > > IE if you have an 8 ohm speaker
and the amp pushes 100 watts to it, if you > drop that to a 4 ohm
speaker the amp can then push 200 watts to the >
speaker. > > With a bone stock AM radio, I would just go with
what is commonly available > which should be a 4 ohm speaker today.
Most everything is 4 ohms for auto > speakers anyway. That factory AM
radio won't push enough power to be of > much concern
anyway. > > On Tue, May 9, 2017 at 5:17 AM, ALIENVOICE--- via
MML <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >
wrote: > > > I want (need) to replace the dash speaker in my
59 Dodge (5x7), but need > > to know what ohm the AM radio
will support. Appears most modern > speakers > >
are much higher ohms than the older cars and I'm not up-to-speed on
how > > that > > works. > > > >
Ideas? > > > > Larry (Akron) > > >
>
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