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In my opinion, 1. Racing oil is fine for racing, where it gets changed every 500 miles or so. But it typically does not have the additive package for daily street driving, where blowby, moisture, and other contaminants need to be controlled and dispursed for 2000 miles, or more. 2. Heavy oil like a 20W-50 is too thick for most engines. A. Oil that heavy can put a lot of extra strain on the oil pump shaft and cam gear, leading to possible failure. B. Thicker oil will flow less volume, reducing the heat removal from the bearings. C. Thicker oil will also be harder to push through an oil filter, the pressure drop may even allow the oil bypass to open and allow dirty unfiltered oil to the bearings. D. Thicker oil will be even slower reaching bearings and cams at start up, especially after sitting for a long period and the surfaces are dry. E. I might consider 20W-50 only if the engine was built with larger bearing clearances (for more oil flow), and if the environment is often over 90 degrees F, and the engine is running at higher than normal temperatures. It is specified for my air-cooled motorcycle engine. 3. Minimum oil thickness I recommend for our older cars is 10W-30. Anything thinner than 10W may squish out of the bearing and allow metal-to-metal contact. I typically use 10W-30 in the winter in my driver and 10W-40 for summer. Zero and 5W oils are designed for modern motors with very tight bearing clearances and pushing oil drag friction to low limits to improve gas MPG. 4. Roller lifters and roller cam followers in most every engine built in the last 20 years do not require a lot of ZDDP. Some ZDDP escapes past rings with the oil and can reduce the effectiveness of catalytic converters to only 100,000 miles. So the EPA mandated lower ZDDP levels so converters will last 150,000 miles. They also benefit by killing off any older driver cars with flat tappet cams prematurely. 5. I have been using a product called ZDDP Plus. A small can will boost the ZDDP level to the old normal levels in a 5 quart oil change. Dave Homstad 56 Dodge D500 On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 7:29 PM, Neil Vedder wrote: Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for me. And, even, Hemmings has gotten into the act, by selling synthetic (which is really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor oil. Whether ZDDP is needed or not, in a lightly-used engine (like all of ours are)....it is 'cheap' insurance and can not hurt anything, but our pocketbooks---check Hemmings' 6-pack pricing (photo attachment). Neil Vedder On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote: We use Brad Penn, made in the old Kendall refinery in Bradford PA. Similar to Kendall GT-1 with plenty of ZDDP. Dick From: Roger van Hoy However, a friend showed me an article in the Packard Pelican or whatever it is that says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I suspect it’s still more than oil 50 years ago. From: Jim I've found two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy the Redline Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz of it with each oil change. The other, even easier, is to buy a can of STP, which has the right amount of ZDDP in it, when you buy the oil and filter and put the STP in along with the new oil. The advantage of the Redline is that it's actually a little cheaper per dose and is easy to poor. The STP is thick and hard to pour. But the STP is available anywhere so it's pretty convenient. From: Bill Parker <hemirr@xxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, August 3, 2014 12:09 PM Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the oil. I've driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it from another list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I believe. There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a ring and bearing job, but the receipt has no date on it. The inside of the engine is very clean and the oil isn't bad either so since that minor overhaul it must have been reasonably maintained, but of course with low ZDDP oil like we are all stuck with in the mainstream oils. I'm thinking of using rotella once I'm back up and running since I don't have a converter to get clogged up with zinc. Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer Mopars On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder < esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old car hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in flat tappet car engines. And, of course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and its engine completely unrepairable and worthless. The car mechanics, in particular, hate the effects of having to work on these damaged engines. Neil Vedder On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote: Bill, You might give some thought as to WHY the cam has developed 3 bad lobes. Here is a good article about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!". Personnally, I think this is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off the roads quicker, by removing the ZDDP from our oils. Dave Homstad 56 Dodge D500 On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote: Hello all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB 383, and as I suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped camshaft. One lobe is just a little nubbin', and two others are clearly half what they should be. Seems like a simple cam swap is in order except of course for the small matter of early B/RB lifters and pushrods being different dimensions from the later ('66 and later?) stuff. From a previous experience with putting a cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine, I think I recall that the late lifters are taller, and must use the late pushrods to compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any case, I think the solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using the late pushrods too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm thinking, make a cam selection, buy the late style lifters with it, and use a set of the 440 pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and the 440's are RB engines with the same deck height). Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not my hot rod and I plan to go with a pretty mild cam. Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer Mopars ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to ___________________________________ This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! 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