Richard is a real life engineer. He can prove in the article that Mobil has the required amount of ZDDP. I'm not sure how much is in "lots of ZDDP, for me". Do you have some data that shows how much is in your "lots" of Valvoline?
On Sunday, August 3, 2014 10:05 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yeah, and I made the mistake of falling for his scare-story on the
"necessity" of installing a dual pot master cylinder...instead of
merely having an OEM single-pot be overhauled....in order to prevent
any leakages from it.
Synthetic motor oil is no more "necessary" than wasting money
on a dual pot M/C.
The "boogieman's" gonna catcha!
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 5:59 PM, Greg C wrote:
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Mopar Action
On-line - Tech Questions
HOME IN PRINT TECH EXTRAS CONTACT Tech
Question Robert Zieller, Middletown CT, 1970
Dodge Dart Swinger 340 Hi Rich, I need to
replace the front brake r...
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Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for me.
And, even, Hemmings has gotten into the act, by
selling synthetic
(which is really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor
oil.
Whether ZDDP is needed or not, in a lightly-used
engine (like all of ours
are)....it is 'cheap' insurance and can not hurt
anything, but our
pocketbooks---check Hemmings' 6-pack pricing (photo
attachment).
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote:
We use Brad Penn, made
in the old Kendall refinery in Bradford PA.
Similar to Kendall GT-1 with plenty of ZDDP.
Dick
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 6:30
PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another approach is to use Valvoline VR-1
racing oil; it has more ZDDP.
However, a friend showed me an article in
the Packard Pelican or whatever it is that
says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I
suspect it’s still more than oil 50 years
ago.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03,
2014 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383
cam
I've found two easy ways to get the
ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy the
Redline Break-In Additive and use about
3 oz of it with each oil change. The
other, even easier, is to buy a can of
STP, which has the right amount of ZDDP
in it, when you buy the oil and filter
and put the STP in along with the new
oil. The advantage of the Redline is
that it's actually a little cheaper per
dose and is easy to poor. The STP is
thick and hard to pour. But the STP is
available anywhere so it's pretty
convenient.
Thanks for the
input guys. I agree about
the oil. I've driven the
car a total of about 10
miles since buying it from
another list member who also
didn't drive it during his
ownership I believe. There
is a receipt from a
commercial garage showing a
ring and bearing job, but
the receipt has no date on
it. The inside of the
engine is very clean and the
oil isn't bad either so
since that minor overhaul it
must have been reasonably
maintained, but of course
with low ZDDP oil like we
are all stuck with in the
mainstream oils. I'm
thinking of using rotella
once I'm back up and running
since I don't have a
converter to get clogged up
with zinc.
Bill & Kathi
Parker, South Central
Indiana, harboring of
bunch of old and newer
Mopars
On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at
2:12 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Oh, that must be
absolutely true,
because nobody in the
old car
hobby knows about the
effects of NOT having
ZDDP in flat tappet
car engines.
And, of course, the
ruined cam shafts
render the car and its
engine completely
unrepairable and
worthless.
The car mechanics, in
particular, hate the
effects of having to
work on these
damaged engines.
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 12:05
AM, Dave Homstad
wrote:
Bill,
You
might give some
thought as to WHY the cam has developed 3
bad lobes.
Here
is a good
article about
how "OIL IS
KILLING OUR
CARS!!!!!".
Personnally,
I think this is
a plot by the
EPA to get old
cars off the
roads quicker,
by removing the
ZDDP from our
oils.
Dave
Homstad
56
Dodge D500
On
Sat, Aug 2, 2014
at 6:43 PM, Bill
Parker wrote:
Hello
all, I tore
into the '60
Saratoga
engine today,
an RB 383, and
as I suspected
from the
symptoms, it
has a wiped
camshaft. One
lobe is just a
little
nubbin', and
two others are
clearly half
what they
should be.
Seems like a
simple cam
swap is in
order except
of course for
the small
matter of
early B/RB
lifters and
pushrods being
different
dimensions
from the later
('66 and
later?)
stuff. From a
previous
experience
with putting a
cam and lifter
kit into a '65
engine, I
think I recall
that the late
lifters are
taller, and
must use the
late pushrods
to
compensate. I
could have it
backwards, but
in any case, I
think the
solution to
using a late
cam and lifter
kit is using
the late
pushrods too.
I have several
core 440
engines and
I'm thinking,
make a cam
selection, buy
the late style
lifters with
it, and use a
set of the 440
pushrods
(being that
both my '60
383 and the
440's are RB
engines with
the same deck
height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions?
This is not my
hot rod and I
plan to go
with a pretty
mild cam.
Bill
& Kathi
Parker, South
Central Indiana,
harboring of
bunch of old and
newer Mopars
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