Re: [FWDLK] Ball and Trunnion
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Re: [FWDLK] Ball and Trunnion



Jim, maybe just because the trunion had been replaced in the past , and
was not 53 y.o. frozen-OEM, but my shop incurred no drama (I was surprised, and
pleased) in being able to press out the pin, using a vise.

Again, the entire trunion joint was overhauled, but the shop didn't have
to resort to using any 20 ton press to remove the pin, and the driveline's been 'working' fine
since then, about 1.5 years to date.

Neil Vedder






Jim Carpenter wrote:
Hi Neil, You need the big press to get that pin out and back in.  The pin
also must be perfectly centered when pressed in or your drive shaft will not
spin true and be a source of vibration.  It takes some care to get the pin
centered.  A shop manual would be advisable if you are wondering how these
u-joints are serviced.


Jim Carpenter


Collectors Auto Supply

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-----Original Message-----
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
[mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Eastern Sierra Adjustment
Svc
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 10:33 AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Ball and Trunnion

I asked my trannie guy how he removed the 'pin', last year, when he O/H'ed
Horrie's trannie, and also replaced the rubber boot and serviced the entire trunion joint
assembly.

He seemed to recall that he merely put the pin into a vise
and tapped the ball-head-housing so that it freed up, relative to the pin's attachment to it.

At any rate, the simple procedure worked; no 20-ton press required.


Neil Vedder




Ron Waters wrote:
Hey Gang -
I pulled my 59 Dodge's driveshaft out of storage and decided that I wanted to rebuild the ball and trunnion (front) U-Joint. What tool should I use to remove the pin from the ball head ? Any 'gotchas' in disassembling the body ? Also, I may want to replace the boot, even though mine looks pretty good, with no cracks or tears. Where can you get the correct boot without paying a fortune ? BTW, I'm keeping the B&T setup. I know some have gone to cross-type joints front and rear, which I'm not interested in doing. Thanks, Ron

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