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Ivory bar soap on threads also seals gasoline
surprisingly well.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:42
PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Engine running
fine...dies...won't re-start
john and others..... this
is true- very replaceable item, i've done it short of 10 times now- my only
mistake was using cork material the first 2 times- there is only one cork
composit grade meant to be constantly in contact with fual- the same grade
used on early holley float bowls- this is an uncommon grade available in
sheets at the auto parts store.
the orig seal was a rubber, trapezoidal o-ring, that when removed, is
either smeared or in pieces, rotted, or just plain black mush!
i used neoprene o-rings, i think it was a 15/16 diameter by 1/8 or
3/16 that worked best, again, lubricate the ring/plug/tank surface after
cleaning well, the lubrication will allow the o-ring to seat without smearing
or tearing
-----Original
Message----- From: Bjwt56@xxxxxxx To:
L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 9:44 am Subject: Re:
[FWDLK] Engine running fine...dies...won't re-start
Folks:
I just read that reseating the plug
on the bottom of the gas tank is not possible. That is not true. A
gasket can be easily made from cork gasket material about 1/8 inch
thick. I know because I did it. Put grease on the cork gasket before
installing so when you tighten the plug you do not tear up the gasket.
Do not over tighten.
John Teske
I
drove my car, literally, for years before I found out that there was
supposed
to be a (ceramic) filter inside the glass fuel filter
bowl...
Neil Vedder
Ron Waters wrote:
> Garrett
-
>
> If you are trying to diagnose this problem, I wouldn't
worry about the fuel
> filter for now. I've run my 58 Ply without a
ceramic filter and it works
> fine. If it's broken, then remove it so
that small chips don't break off and
> get stuck in the carb's needle
and seat. In fact, it's possible that this
> could be the
problem.
>
> If you have old gas in the tank, remove it and
flush it out. Do NOT attempt
> to remove the drain plug in the bottom
of the tank. You will never re-seat
> it to the point that it doesn't
leak.
>
> While you have the tank off, pull the sending unit and
put a new filter on
> the pickup tube end. Have you ever done this
since you've owned the car ?
> It'll prevent you from having similar
problems down the road that may result
> from crap getting in the
line.
>
> How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt ? If
that has never been
> done and the above doesn't solve the problem,
then that should be your next
> area of attention.
>
>
Don't look for a quick fix. Use the above to solve the problem. Let us
know
> if you have any questions.
>
>
Ron
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "Garrett" <TheBulkster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 5:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Engine
running fine...dies...won't re-start
>
>
>
>> Anyone know of their local parts store carrying a filter
element that will
>> work as at least a temporary solution to the
ceramic element?
>>
>> Anyone have luck at a tractor
supply or the like finding something that
>>
> will
>
>> fit?
>>
>>
I have an old ceramic filter that appears to have been used, and the
one
>>
> in
>
>> there was cracked (and broke into two pieces, which may have
been my
>> doing...at least in part).
>>
>> The
car started this morning in the first turn, I gave it a little
gas,
>>
> and
>
>> then it died....no restart. Still wet around the
carb. Otherwise the
>>
>
going
>
>> has been slow for various (mostly
non-car related) reasons.
>>
>> -Garrett
>>
>
>
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