Re: [FWDLK] L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 8 May 2010 to 9 May 2010 (#2010-94)
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Re: [FWDLK] L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 8 May 2010 to 9 May 2010 (#2010-94)




Remember not to aim the pressure washer anywhere near the radiator, fins will get bent! Ask me how I know. Dick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 8 May 2010 to 9 May 2010 (#2010-94)


Engine cleaning tip.  Try your wife's oven cleaner and a pressure washer (local car wash) but be sure to protect your eyes and skin, this stuff could sting.
 
Exhaust manifolds.  I took mine to the local powder coater and he had some ceramic coating that worked sweet.  It's available in colors.
HT

--- On Sun, 5/9/10, L-FORWARDLOOK automatic digest system <LISTSERV@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From: L-FORWARDLOOK automatic digest system <LISTSERV@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 8 May 2010 to 9 May 2010 (#2010-94)
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sunday, May 9, 2010, 11:00 PM

There are 3 messages totalling 1442 lines in this issue.

Topics of the day:

  1. L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 7 May 2010 to 8 May 2010 (#2010-93)
  2. Why Paint Exhaust Manifolds ? (2)

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Date:    Sun, 9 May 2010 04:42:32 -0700
From:    JAMES ADDARIO <jvaddario@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 7 May 2010 to 8 May 2010 (#2010-93)

Hi,

I'm late into a discussion as usual but, as far as painting an exhaust manifold, it's more about how that what.  I'm a typical do-it-yourself person on a budget.  However, I've done a few hi-temp paint jobs over the years with good results.  While I've used whatever I could find, to get the right color, I've been very careful to treat it just like I would any good paint job.  Properly prepare the surface, use the right primer and follow the instructions.  I'm one of those rare old types that reads the instruction manuals!  Paint will fail if it doesn't grip, cover and cure.  The surface must be absolutely clean and dry with capitol C's and D's.  It must be sealed to prevent moisture from beneath and have the right surface to grip properly.   That means the right primer.  A critical step is curing it before you subject it to the elements.  Just like any paint, it has to cure to eliminate the carrier and thinning solvents.  It seems to be even more
important in hi-temp paints.  I am certainly no expert in this but, I think, if you only do one thing, baking it for the right length of time at the right temperature might be the best thing you can do to get a good result.

Good luck,

Jim

 
--- On Sat, 5/8/10, L-FORWARDLOOK automatic digest system <LISTSERV@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: L-FORWARDLOOK automatic digest system <LISTSERV@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 7 May 2010 to 8 May 2010 (#2010-93)
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, May 8, 2010, 9:00 PM
> There are 7 messages totalling 963
> lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
>   1. DPCD Keys (2)
>   2. Engine Cleaning (4)
>   3. Exhaust manifold paint
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 16:11:25 +1200
> From:    Glenn Barratt <FURY@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: DPCD Keys
>
> This is a multipart message in MIME format.
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> ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01CAEEC9.1C688710
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> Hi.
>
> Does anybody know of any internet information relating to
> the different
> styles of DPCD key blanks used through the Forward Look
> years?
>
> Glenn.
>
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
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>     {size:8.5in 11.0in;
>     margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
> div.Section1
>     {page:Section1;}
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> </head>
>
> <body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple>
>
> <div class=3DSection1>
>
> <p
> class=3DMsoNormal>Hi.<o:p></o:p></p>
>
> <p class=3DMsoNormal>Does anybody know of any
> internet information =
> relating to
> the different styles of DPCD key blanks used through the
> Forward Look =
> years?<o:p></o:p></p>
>
> <p
> class=3DMsoNormal>Glenn.<o:p></o:p></p>
>
> </div>
>
> </body>
>
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> size=3D"2"></font></p>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 01:22:57 -0400
> From:    Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_0755_01CAEE4C.FDD26630
> Content-Type: text/plain;
>     charset="Windows-1252"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Yes, CRC Degreaser. Would never go near that foamy stuff
> again. Takes =
> several applications of that to do what one application of
> CRC does. Ya =
> pay for what ya get.
>
> Ron
>   ----- Original Message -----=20
>   From: Nick Sperduto=20
>   To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
>   Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 10:47 PM
>   Subject: [FWDLK] Engine Cleaning
>
>
>   So I have my engine on my stand and I need to clean
> the grease and oil =
> off it. You guys using anything special.
>   Brake cleaner or gas, etc...I used to use some crc
> degreaser, but I =
> ran out and it's $13 a can now.
>   Also want to clean up parts, like the inside of an
> oil pan and timing =
> case cover, etc.
>
>
>   Any suggestions,=20
>   Nick
>
>  
> *************************************************************
>
>   To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
> please go to=20
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> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
> Transitional//EN">
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> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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> 8.00.6001.18876">
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes, CRC Degreaser. Would
> never go near that foamy =
> stuff=20
> again. Takes several applications of that to do what one
> application of =
> CRC=20
> does. Ya pay for what ya get.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT
> size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT
> size=3D2>Ron</FONT></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE=20
> style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px;
> =
> PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT:
> 0px"=20
> dir=3Dltr>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original
> Message ----- </DIV>
>   <DIV=20
>   style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4;
> font-color: =
> black"><B>From:</B>=20
>   <A title=3Ddrt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx
> =
> href="" href="http://us.mc577.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=drt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:drt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx">drt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx">Nick=20
>   Sperduto</A> </DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
> title=3DL-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
>   =
> href="" href="http://us.mc577.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" ymailto="mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</=
> A>=20
>   </DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 07, 2010 =
> 10:47 PM</DIV>
>   <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Subject:</B> [FWDLK] Engine =
> Cleaning</DIV>
>   <DIV><BR></DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>So I
> have my engine on my stand and I =
> need to=20
>   clean the grease and oil off it. You guys using
> anything =
> special.</FONT></DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Brake
> cleaner or gas, etc...I used to =
> use some=20
>   crc degreaser, but I ran out and it's $13 a can
> now.</FONT></DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Also
> want to clean up parts, like the =
> inside of=20
>   an oil pan and timing case cover,
> etc.</FONT></DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>Any
> suggestions, </FONT></DIV>
>   <DIV><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial>Nick</FONT></DIV>
>   <P><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT></P>
>   <P><FONT size=3D2=20
>   =
> face=3DArial>************************************************************=
> *</FONT></P>
>   <P><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>To
> unsubscribe or set your subscription =
> options,=20
>   please go to <BR><A=20
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> >http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlook&A=3D1</A>=20
>  
> </FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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> size=3D"2"></font></p>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 06:18:19 -0500
> From:    Paul Holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: DPCD Keys
>
> Glenn Barratt wrote:
> > Hi.
> >
> > Does anybody know of any internet information relating
> to the different
> > styles of DPCD key blanks used through the Forward
> Look years?
> >
> > Glenn.
>
> I do have a NOS set of 57 Chrysler keys for a nice example
> if you want,
> I know they are 57's because they are much nicer versions
> of my original keys
> for my first 300-C
>
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy
> Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Stage 1
> Hoosier Corps L#6
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
> to
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 07:39:57 -0400
> From:    Mike Martin <mikeamartin02349@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold paint
>
> ----------MB_8CCBCBA51F3B1B9_1510_1751E_webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> My friend has used the following proceedure and the paint
> has stayed on th=
> e exhaust manifolds for 10 years. He does the following: He
> first beadblas=
> ts/wirebrushes the manifolds, cleaning as good as possible.
> He then warms=
>  them in the oven to make sure all moisture is gone. He
> uses a product tha=
> t he gets from Long Island Corvette Supply-product # 45-06
> High Temp Gray=
>  Exh Primer. He applies 3 light coats of this, letting dry
> in between coat=
> s. Bake these at 200 degrees for 20 minutes. Then one coat
> of another prod=
> uct from Long Island Corvette Supply #45-24 Cast Blast
> Exhaust Paint (this=
>  stuff I am sure is avaiable elsewhere) and bake for 20
> minutes @ 200 degr=
> ees. After cooling another light coat of #45-24 and then
> bake at 350 degre=
> es for 20 minutes.=20
> As stated the paint has stayed on these manifolds for many,
> many years. =
> =20
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Nelson <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 2:42 pm
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
> Hey all. Napa has 1100 deg. eng paint.
> =20
>
> Thank you,
> Gary, the parts doc
> Reno, Nevada 89521 USA
> The Biggest Little City In The World
> Mail: garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> 775 851-1420
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxx=
> du]On Behalf Of Ron Waters
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:42 PM
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
> Dave -
> =20
> Any particular brand of exhaust spray paint you would
> recommend ? Talked=
>  to a friend today and he recommended the Bill Hirsh
> stuff.
> =20
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: Dave Stragand=20
> To: Ron Waters ; L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 10:59 AM
> Subject: RE: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
>
> I have had great luck with simple high temp cast iron gray
> exhaust spray=
>  paint.
> =20
> The key is to follow the instructions on the can -- the one
> I used said to=
>  bake them for 2 hours at 550 degrees to cure them. 
> (Heating them too hot=
>  too fast, or not heating them at all, will cause it not to
> coat right.)=
>   Smelled pretty bad in the kitchen, but a window fan
> eventually took care=
>  of that and the smell didn't hang around after I finally
> aired it out. If=
>  my oven would have actually been clean beforehand it
> probably wouldn't ha=
> ve smelled as bad.
> =20
> The last manifolds I did were on the DeLorean.  If you
> check out http://ww=
> w.projectvixen.com/week20.htm you can see the cast
> manifolds and the other=
>  pipes I did in black.  They still look perfect 10
> years later, and that=
>  engine with the turbos runs a LOT hotter than our MoPars.
>
>
> From: Ron Waters
> Sent: Tue 5/4/2010 9:52 PM
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
>
> What procedure did you go thru before coating the manifolds
> ? And how long=
>  has it been since you used the manifold paint ? Is any
> rust coming thru=
>  ?
> =20
> I sandblasted mine, then painted with the Eastwood stuff.
> Rust was visible=
>  within six months. Then I brought them to a high temp
> coating place,where=
>  they put some type of ceramic type coating on. Mounted
> these on the car.=
>  But again have some rust coming through.=20
> =20
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: debenson2=20
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 9:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
> I use the POR15 manifold paint...goes on easy brush on, and
> lasts looks gr=
> eat.
>
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: Nick Sperduto=20
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx=20
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 8:25 PM
> Subject: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint
>
>
> What are you guys using to paint your exhaust manifolds.
> (for my 56 plym,=
>  v8)
> I was going to get some eastwood gray high temp, but the
> website says it's=
>  on back order until May 18th. Don't really feel like
> waiting that long fo=
> r it.
> =20
> Nick
>
> *************************************************************
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
> to=20
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>
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>
> ----------MB_8CCBCBA51F3B1B9_1510_1751E_webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
>
> <font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
> <div>My friend&nbsp;has used the following
> proceedure and the paint has st=
> ayed on the exhaust manifolds for 10 years. He does the
> following: He firs=
> t&nbsp;beadblasts/wirebrushes the manifolds, cleaning
> as good as possible.=
>  He then warms them in the oven to make sure all moisture
> is gone. He uses=
>  a product that he gets from Long Island Corvette
> Supply-product # 45-06=
>  High Temp Gray Exh Primer. He applies 3 light coats of
> this, letting dry=
>  in between coats. Bake these at 200 degrees for 20
> minutes. Then one coat=
>  of another product from Long Island Corvette Supply #45-24
> Cast Blast Exh=
> aust Paint&nbsp;(this stuff I am sure is avaiable
> elsewhere) and bake for="">>  20 minutes @ 200 degrees. After cooling another light
> coat&nbsp;of #45-24=
>  and then bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. </div>
>
>
> <div>As stated the paint has stayed on these
> manifolds for many, many year=
> s.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><br>
> &nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"CLEAR: both"></div>
> <br>
> <br>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR:
> black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"=
> >-----Original Message-----<br>
> From: Gary Nelson &lt;gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx&gt;<br>
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>
> Sent: Fri, May 7, 2010 2:42 pm<br>
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold paint<br>
> <br>
>
>
> <div
> id=3DAOLMsgPart_2_798174c9-aaad-4349-aa21-9e2b18d98a4d>
>
> <div><SPAN class=3D205174219-07052010><FONT
> face=3DArial>Hey all. Napa has=
>  1100 deg. eng
> paint.</FONT></SPAN></div>
>
>
> <div><SPAN class=3D205174219-07052010><FONT
> face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN>&nb=
> sp;</div>
>
>
> <div><SPAN class=3D205174219-07052010>
>
> <div><FONT face=3DArial>Thank you,<br>
> Gary, the parts doc<br>
> Reno, Nevada 89521 USA<br>
> The Biggest Little City In The World<br>
> Mail: <A
> __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:garythepartsdoc@glnelso=
> n.com">garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx</A><br>
> 775 851-1420<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> </FONT></div>
> </SPAN></div>
>
> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px" dir=3Dltr>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr class=3DOutlookMessageHeader
> align=3Dleft><FONT size=3D2 fa=
> ce=3DTahoma>-----Original Message-----<br>
> <B>From:</B> Forward Look Mopar Discussion List
> [<A __removedLink__1367466=
> 562__href=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx?">mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@lis=
> ts.psu.edu</A>]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Ron
> Waters<br>
> <B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 05, 2010 2:42
> PM<br>
> <B>To:</B> <A
> __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@LIST=
> S.PSU.EDU">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A><br>
> <B>Subject:</B> Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold
> paint<br>
> <br>
> </FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2>Dave
> -</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2>Any particular brand of
> exhaust spray paint you would=
>  recommend ? Talked to a friend today and he recommended
> the Bill Hirsh st=
> uff.</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2>Ron</FONT></div>
>
> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid;
> PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PA=
> DDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
> dir=3Dltr>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original
> Message ----- </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4;
> font-color: black"><B=
> >From:</B> <A title=3Ddave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> __removedLink__1367466=
> 562__href=3D"mailto:dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx">Dave
> Stragand</A> </div=
> >
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx=
>  __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx">Ron
> Waters=
> </A> ; <A title=3DL-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> __removedLink__1367466562__h=
> ref=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A>=
>  </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 05, 2010
> 10:59=
>  AM</div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [FWDLK] Exhaust
> manifo=
> ld paint</div>
>
>
> <div><br>
> </div>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr id=3DidOWAReplyText50011>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2
> face=3DArial>I have had grea=
> t luck with simple high temp cast iron gray exhaust spray
> paint.</FONT></d=
> iv>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>The
> key is to follow the instru=
> ctions on the can -- the one I used&nbsp;said to bake
> them for 2 hours at&=
> nbsp;550&nbsp;degrees to cure them.&nbsp; (Heating
> them too hot too fast,=
>  or not heating them at all, will cause it not to coat
> right.)&nbsp; Smell=
> ed&nbsp;pretty bad&nbsp;in the kitchen, but a
> window fan eventually took=
>  care of that and the smell didn't hang around after I
> finally aired it ou=
> t. If my oven would have actually been clean beforehand it
> probably wouldn=
> 't have smelled as bad.</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>The
> last manifolds I did were=
>  on the DeLorean.&nbsp; If you check out <A
> target=3D_blank __removedLink_=
> _1367466562__href=3D"http://www.projectvixen.com/week20.htm">http://www.pr=
> ojectvixen.com/week20.htm</A>&nbsp;you can see
> the cast manifolds and the=
>  other pipes I did in black.&nbsp; They still look
> perfect 10 years later,=
>  and that engine with the turbos runs a LOT hotter than our
> MoPars.</FONT>=
> </div>
> </div>
>
>
> <div dir=3Dltr><br>
>
> <HR>
> <FONT size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><B>From:</B>
> Ron Waters<br>
> <B>Sent:</B> Tue 5/4/2010 9:52 PM<br>
> <B>To:</B> <A
> __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@LIST=
> S.PSU.EDU">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A><br>
> <B>Subject:</B> Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust manifold
> paint<br>
> </FONT><br>
> </div>
>
>
> <div>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2>What procedure did you go
> thru before coating the mani=
> folds ? And how long has it been since you used the
> manifold paint ?&nbsp;=
> Is any rust coming thru ?</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2>I sandblasted mine, then
> painted with the Eastwood stu=
> ff. Rust was visible within six months. Then I brought them
> to a high temp=
>  coating place,where they put&nbsp;some type
> of&nbsp;ceramic type coating=
>  on. Mounted these&nbsp;on the car. But again have some
> rust coming throug=
> h. </FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><FONT
> size=3D2>Ron</FONT></div>
>
> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid;
> PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PA=
> DDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
> dir=3Dltr>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original
> Message ----- </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4;
> font-color: black"><B=
> >From:</B> <A title=3Ddebensonii@xxxxxxxxxxx
> __removedLink__1367466562__hr=
> ef=3D"mailto:debensonii@xxxxxxxxxxx">debenson2</A>
> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>To:</B> <A
> title=3DL-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.=
> PSU.EDU __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxx.=
> EDU">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A>
> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 04, 2010
> 9:41 PM=
> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [FWDLK] Exhaust
> manifo=
> ld paint</div>
>
>
> <div><br>
> </div>
>
>
> <div><FONT color=3D#808000 size=3D4
> face=3DArial>I use the POR15 manifold=
>  paint...goes on easy brush on,&nbsp;and lasts looks
> great.</FONT></div>
>
> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #808000 2px solid;
> PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PA=
> DDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
> dir=3Dltr>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original
> Message ----- </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4;
> font-color: black"><B=
> >From:</B> <A title=3Ddrt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx
> __removedLink__1367466562__href=
> =3D"mailto:drt-rdr@xxxxxxxxxxx">Nick
> Sperduto</A> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>To:</B> <A
> title=3DL-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.=
> PSU.EDU __removedLink__1367466562__href=3D"mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxx.=
> EDU">L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A>
> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 04, 2010
> 8:25 PM=
> </div>
>
>
> <div style=3D"FONT: 10pt
> arial"><B>Subject:</B> [FWDLK] Exhaust
> manifold=
>  paint</div>
>
>
> <div><br>
> </div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>What are you
> guys using to paint your exh=
> aust manifolds. (for my 56 plym,
> v8)</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I was going to
> get some eastwood gray hig=
> h temp, but the website says it's on back order until May
> 18th. Don't real=
> ly feel like waiting that long for
> it.</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial>Nick</FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial></FONT></div>
>
>
> <div><FONT size=3D2
> face=3DArial>*****************************************=
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> ----------MB_8CCBCBA51F3B1B9_1510_1751E_webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 14:18:29 -0500
> From:    John Bartell <59fins@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning
>
> If you have an O'Reilly's Auto Parts near you, try some
> Purple
> Power...works pretty good.   I haven't found
> anything short of a
> combination de-greaser and steam cleaning/pressure
> washing  combined
> with a scraper and wire brush and elbow grease to get one
> super clean! 
> Some are just worse than others to get clean.
> John in WI...recovering from a late snow and freezing temps
> last
> nite...maybe in the 20's tonite...D..n!
>
> Nick Sperduto wrote:
> > So I have my engine on my stand and I need to clean
> the grease and oil
> > off it. You guys using anything special.
> > Brake cleaner or gas, etc...I used to use some crc
> degreaser, but I
> > ran out and it's $13 a can now.
> > Also want to clean up parts, like the inside of an oil
> pan and timing
> > case cover, etc.
> > 
> > 
> > Any suggestions,
> > Nick
> >
> >
> *************************************************************
> >
> > To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
> please go to
> > http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
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> > <http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1>
> >
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 17:59:50 -0400
> From:    Jack Johnson <johnaire@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning
>
> You mean I have to start the wood stove back up soon!!!
>
> I have been using Naptha for my cleaning needs and it works
> pretty good and
> dries quickly.  It is flammable though.  I used
> to get it in bulk at an oil
> company. When they went out of business and needed to get
> rid of all the
> things there, I bought over 55 gallons of it so I still
> have a good supply
> of it.  I once got a 5 gallon can from ARG in
> Bradford--the former Kendall
> Refining Co.
> Jack in Shinglehouse, Pa---ready for the cold weather
> again--Thanks John!!!!
>
>
>
> > If you have an O'Reilly's Auto Parts near you, try
> some Purple
> > Power...works pretty good.   I haven't
> found anything short of a
> > combination de-greaser and steam cleaning/pressure
> washing  combined
> > with a scraper and wire brush and elbow grease to get
> one super clean!
> > Some are just worse than others to get clean.
> > John in WI...recovering from a late snow and freezing
> temps last
> > nite...maybe in the 20's tonite...D..n!
> >
> > Nick Sperduto wrote:
> >> So I have my engine on my stand and I need to
> clean the grease and oil
> >> off it. You guys using anything special.
> >> Brake cleaner or gas, etc...I used to use some crc
> degreaser, but I
> >> ran out and it's $13 a can now.
> >> Also want to clean up parts, like the inside of an
> oil pan and timing
> >> case cover, etc.
> >>
> >>
> >> Any suggestions,
> >> Nick
> >>
> >>
> *************************************************************
> >>
> >> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
> please go to
> >> http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
> >> <http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1>
> >>
> >
> >
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> >
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>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Sat, 8 May 2010 21:44:12 EDT
> From:    JLSAVARD@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning
>
> --part1_66156.47ac82ce.39176d6c_boundary
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/8/2010 6:00:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight
> Time, 
> johnaire@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> writes:
>
> I have  been using Naptha for my cleaning needs and it
> works pretty good
> and
> dries  quickly.  It is flammable though.

> Naptha="white gas"=Coleman stove fuel.

> Joe Savard
>
> *************************************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go
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> --part1_66156.47ac82ce.39176d6c_boundary
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> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
> Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUS-ASCII"
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML
> 8.00.6001.18904"></HEAD>
> <BODY style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000;
> FONT-SIZE: 10pt" id=3Dr=
> ole_body  bottomMargin=3D7 leftMargin=3D7
> rightMargin=3D7 topMargin=3D7><F=
> ONT id=3Drole_document  color=3D#000000 size=3D2
> face=3DArial>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>In a message dated 5/8/2010 6:00:05 P.M. Eastern
> Daylight Time,=20
> johnaire@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> writes:</DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid;
> PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARG=
> IN-LEFT: 5px"><FONT   
> style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#00=
> 0000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>I have=20
>   been using Naptha for my cleaning needs and it works
> pretty good and <BR=
> >dries=20
>   quickly.&nbsp; It is flammable
> though.&nbsp;</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Naptha=3D"white gas"=3DColeman stove
> fuel.</DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV>Joe
> Savard</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
> <p><font face=3D"Arial"
> size=3D"2"></font></p>
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of L-FORWARDLOOK Digest - 7 May 2010 to 8 May 2010
> (#2010-93)
> *****************************************************************
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------------------------------

Date:    Sun, 9 May 2010 17:41:05 +0000
From:    cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Why Paint Exhaust Manifolds ?

------=_Part_1216672_429359482.1273426865898
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


What is the point in painting the exhaust manifolds ? Is it just a "pretty" thing, or were they painted for the first 3 hours of their life before it burned off ?


I always thought they were installed unpainted.


B.

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<html><head><style type='text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><div style='font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000'><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;What is the point in painting the exhaust manifolds ? &nbsp;Is it just a "pretty" thing, or were they painted for the first 3 hours of their life before it burned off ?<div><br></div><div>&nbsp;&nbsp;I always thought they were installed unpainted.</div><div><br></div><div>&nbsp;&nbsp;B.</div></div></body></html>
<p><font face="Arial" size="2"></font></p>
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------------------------------

Date:    Sun, 9 May 2010 21:44:29 -0400
From:    Charles Pollock <cpollock2@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Why Paint Exhaust Manifolds ?

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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Finally, someone brought this up...
I feel the same way B.  ALL of the unrestored cars I=B9ve seen had rusty
manifolds with just a trace of paint left- basically what didn=B9t burn off.
I get tired of the over restored showboats that are =8Csupposed=B9 to be
restored to =8Cfactory=B9 condition...and are painted to within an inch of thei=
r
lives with modern paint, marked with markings that never appeared (or maybe
shouldn=B9t have) and have undersides that are as nice as the topside.  Peopl=
e
forget these were just cars to the people who built them and bought them
originally- not works of art or historical artifacts.

That=B9s just my opinion- and mine ONLY....

Enjoy!
Charles.



On 5/9/10 1:41 PM, "cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx" <cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>=20
>   What is the point in painting the exhaust manifolds ?  Is it just a "pr=
etty"
> thing, or were they painted for the first 3 hours of their life before it
> burned off ?
>=20
>   I always thought they were installed unpainted.
>=20
>   B.
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--B_3356286269_4294965739
Content-type: text/html;
    charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [FWDLK] Why Paint Exhaust Manifolds ?</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYLE=3D'font-size:12.0px'>Final=
ly, someone brought this up...<BR>
I feel the same way B. &nbsp;ALL of the unrestored cars I’ve seen had=
rusty manifolds with just a trace of paint left- basically what didn’=
t burn off.<BR>
I get tired of the over restored showboats that are ‘supposed’ =
to be restored to ‘factory’ condition...and are painted to withi=
n an inch of their lives with modern paint, marked with markings that never =
appeared (or maybe shouldn’t have) and have undersides that are as nic=
e as the topside. &nbsp;People forget these were just cars to the people who=
built them and bought them originally- not works of art or historical artif=
acts.<BR>
<BR>
That’s just my opinion- and mine ONLY....<BR>
<BR>
Enjoy!<BR>
Charles.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
On 5/9/10 1:41 PM, &quot;cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx&quot; &lt;cgico@xxxxxxxxxxx&gt; =
wrote:<BR>
<BR>
</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYL=
E=3D'font-size:12.0px'><BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;What is the point in painting the exhaust manifolds ? &nbsp;Is =
it just a &quot;pretty&quot; thing, or were they painted for the first 3 hou=
rs of their life before it burned off ?<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;I always thought they were installed unpainted.<BR>
<BR>
&nbsp;&nbsp;B.<BR>
</SPAN></FONT><SPAN STYLE=3D'font-size:12.0px'><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">***********=
**************************************************<BR>
</FONT><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><BR>
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sts.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=3Dl-forwardlookA=3D1</a> <a href="" href="http://lists.psu=/" target=_blank>http://lists.psu=
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